New PC Hardware Running Slow? Enable Refresh Rate, Mouse Polling, XMP/EXPO and Dolby Atmos

The advice holds up, but it needs a few corrections. Some of the "just turn it up" tips have exceptions, and a couple of the numbers are examples rather than rules. Below is each fix with the Windows steps, the limits that matter, and how to check that the change worked.

1. The 144Hz monitor running at 60Hz​

This is the most common case. The MakeUseOf author says he often sees people running 120Hz and 144Hz monitors at 60Hz. That's easy to miss if you've never seen the two side by side.

Microsoft's own support documentation gives the procedure for Windows 11:

1. Open Start > Settings > System > Display > Advanced display.
2. If you have more than one monitor, select the correct display first.
3. Check the Display information panel. It shows the current resolution and refresh rate, and whether the display supports variable refresh rate (VRR).
4. Pick the rate you want next to Choose a refresh rate.

Windows 10 users get to the same place through Advanced display settings, choose the monitor under Choose Display, and then pick a rate under Refresh rate. Microsoft also notes that Windows 10 support ended on October 14, 2025. Windows 10 machines no longer get free security fixes, which is a bigger issue than a sluggish monitor.

The asterisk most people skip​

Microsoft's documentation says the dropdown puts an asterisk (*) next to refresh rates that don't support your current resolution. If you choose one, Windows lowers the resolution to reach that rate. So picking the highest number isn't always the right move. You could get 165Hz at a lower, slightly blurry resolution when you wanted 144Hz at native resolution. After you change the rate, check the resolution as well.

When Windows itself caps your games​

Windows 11 has a feature called Dynamic Refresh Rate (DRR) that raises and lowers the refresh rate depending on what you're doing. Microsoft says DRR needs a display with VRR support and a refresh rate of at least 120Hz. Microsoft also warns that DRR shouldn't affect games built for VRR, but it can limit the maximum refresh rate of other games. Its recommended fix is to turn DRR off. If an older game seems stuck below your monitor's top rate, check that toggle on the same Advanced display page. Windows 10 doesn't support DRR.

Microsoft also points out that if your display supports VRR, you may not need to set the refresh rate by hand for gaming, because many popular games use VRR automatically. Changing the setting still matters for the desktop, scrolling and pen input.

Cables, docks and the HDMI 1.4 question​

MakeUseOf says older HDMI 1.4 connections may not support a monitor's advertised refresh rate at native resolution, and recommends HDMI 2.0 or newer, or DisplayPort. That's correct in direction but too broad as written. According to the HDMI Licensing Administrator's specification page, HDMI 1.4b supports 1920??1080 at 120Hz and 4K at 24, 25 and 30Hz with a High Speed HDMI cable.

• 1080p at 120Hz fits within HDMI 1.4b's official modes.
• 1440p at 144Hz, 1080p at 200Hz+, or 4K at 60Hz and above are not listed among HDMI 1.4b's modes. This is where a newer HDMI version or DisplayPort matters.
• Windows only lists rates that your whole chain (monitor, graphics output, cable, adapter, dock) reports as supported. If the rate you expect is missing, the link is the likely cause.

Bottom line: set the rate, check the resolution and the asterisk, and look at DRR if a game seems capped. If the rate you paid for is missing, check the cable and dock before blaming the monitor. MakeUseOf also suggests rechecking after major Windows or graphics driver updates, since display settings sometimes reset.

2. The 8,000Hz mouse running at 1,000Hz​

Polling rate (Logitech calls it report rate) is how often a mouse sends its position to the PC. Brands now market 4,000Hz and 8,000Hz rates heavily. Logitech's product page for the PRO X Superlight 2, for example, lists LIGHTSPEED wireless with polling up to 8kHz. The mouse doesn't necessarily ship running at that rate.

The setting is in the maker's software:

• Logitech: open G HUB, select the mouse, and look for the report rate setting.
• Razer: Pocket-lint's coverage of Razer's 8,000Hz firmware update describes the same steps: to change your polling rate in Synapse, click on your mouse and then click "Performance." You should then see an option to select the polling rate you'd like for your mouse.

Why the option might not be there​

Not every mouse offers every rate. The available rates depend on the hardware and firmware:

• On Razer, guides based on the company's instructions note that the available presets depend on the mouse, firmware, and whether you are using a compatible HyperPolling dongle. Without the right receiver, the 4K and 8K options may not appear.
• Firmware matters too. When Razer added 8,000Hz to some existing wireless mice, Pocket-lint reported that owners had to ensure you have the latest version of Razer's Synapse software, download the firmware updater, and update your mouse's firmware. Then, you can choose a polling rate between 125Hz and 8,000Hz.

Should you actually use 8,000Hz?​

MakeUseOf itself admits that most casual players can't feel the difference above the common 1,000Hz default. Very high polling rates also put more load on the CPU, and wireless mice use more battery. Some older games behave oddly at extreme rates. The sensible approach is to choose a rate on purpose and test it, not to max it out automatically. Use 8K if it feels better and your system handles it smoothly. Otherwise 1K or 2K is fine.

Bottom line: open G HUB or Synapse, update the firmware, confirm you're using the correct receiver, and choose a rate deliberately.

3. "Fast" RAM running at its default speed​

MakeUseOf's example is a DDR4-3600 kit running at 2,133MT/s, or a DDR5-6000 kit starting at 4,800MT/s. That happens because memory boots with a conservative standard profile that prioritises compatibility. The speed on the box is usually a separate, pre-tested profile that you have to enable.

Intel's support documentation describes Intel XMP as a way to overclock compatible DDR4 and DDR5 memory by loading predefined, tested profiles through the BIOS or a tuning app. Intel lists XMP 2.0 for DDR4 and XMP 3.0 for DDR5. On AMD, the equivalent is EXPO. AMD introduced it in 2022 with the Ryzen 7000 series and Socket AM5 as profile settings for DDR5 overclocking. Some motherboard makers use their own names, such as DOCP. Treat those three names as common examples, not a full list.

The numbers in that example are typical, but your kit, board, CPU and number of DIMMs decide the real default and the real ceiling.

The procedure​

1. Note your exact memory kit and motherboard model.
2. Restart and enter the UEFI/BIOS setup (the key varies by board).
3. Find the memory or overclocking section. Intel says to check with your motherboard vendor or OEM for the exact menu, because it varies.
4. Enable XMP, EXPO or your board's equivalent, and choose the profile matching your kit's rating.
5. Save and reboot.
6. In Windows, open Task Manager > Performance > Memory and check the Speed reading.

The caveats that belong in the same paragraph​

• This is overclocking. Intel warns that changing clock frequency or voltage may void warranties and reduce stability and component life. AMD's EXPO launch materials say its product warranty doesn't cover damage caused by overclocking, even when enabled through AMD's own tools.
• Stability isn't guaranteed. A kit rated at a given speed may not run there with every CPU memory controller or with four sticks installed. MakeUseOf says a PC that won't boot usually needs only a trip back to the BIOS. That's usually true, but recovery varies by board. Some boards revert to safe settings automatically after failed boots, while others need a CMOS reset. Check your board's manual before you start.
• Test after changing it. If Windows boots, run a memory stress test or play your usual games for a while before trusting the new settings.

Bottom line: turning the profile on is usually a quick change. Check that Windows reports the new speed, and treat it as the overclock it officially is.

4. The Dolby Atmos soundbar that sounds like stereo​

This is the only case outside the PC itself, but the same rule applies: every device in the chain has to agree. MakeUseOf's author describes upgrading from TV speakers to an Atmos soundbar and getting flat, ordinary sound until he fixed the setup.

His checklist:

• Use the right port. Connect the soundbar to the TV's HDMI port labelled ARC or eARC. The HDMI specification page notes that ARC lets a TV send audio "upstream" to a soundbar or AV receiver over the same HDMI cable. eARC offers more bandwidth for higher-quality formats.
• Change the TV's output mode. Look in the TV's sound settings for options such as HDMI eARC Mode, Digital Audio Output, Pass Through or Bitstream. If the TV decodes everything itself, it may send plain stereo PCM to the soundbar. The names differ by manufacturer, so these are examples, not exact menu labels.
• Check the content. As MakeUseOf notes, not every movie, show, game or streaming plan includes Atmos. Some services only offer it on certain plans or devices.

For PC users connecting a Windows machine or an Xbox through the TV, the source device's audio output also has to send Atmos. Test with a title you know is in Atmos before deciding the soundbar is at fault.

Bottom line: use the ARC/eARC port, set the TV to pass audio through, confirm the content has Atmos, and then judge the soundbar.

Quick checklist​

Is this really "not getting what you paid for"?​

MakeUseOf's headline overstates things a little. In every case here, the hardware works as advertised. It just ships at safe defaults. Manufacturers do this on purpose. Running memory at the conservative standard boots on almost any board, 1,000Hz polling works with almost any PC, and Windows won't switch to a refresh rate that might lower your resolution without asking. Those defaults reduce support calls and failed boots.

Better communication would still help. Windows can already detect the refresh rates a display supports. A one-time prompt like "your monitor supports 165Hz, want to use it?" would fix the most common mistake on this list. Until something like that exists, check these settings after installing new hardware and again after major updates. All four checks together take about ten minutes.