Bianchet’s new UltraFino Gold Edition transforms the brand’s ultra-thin tonneau tourbillon into a warm, wearable statement of Swiss haute horlogerie, marrying an 18K rose gold case and optional integrated gold bracelet with the featherlight, titanium-built Calibre UT01—an automatic flying tourbillon movement just 3.85 mm thick and weighing a mere 8 grams.
Bianchet’s UltraFino line has been the Maison’s exercise in proportion, ergonomics, and structural lightness since the UT01 movement’s public emergence earlier in 2025. The collection is founded on a deliberate design language tied to the Golden Ratio, expressed across case geometry, movement bridges and, in the UT01, even the rotor geometry. The Gold Edition takes that language and reframes it in 18K rose gold, introduced to the public at WatchTime New York 2025—an event that this year doubled down on high‑end independent and established maisons showcasing technical novelties.
Bianchet’s own technical datasheets and brand pages set the technical baseline: the UT01 is an automatic flying tourbillon constructed primarily from Grade 5 titanium, delivering about 60 hours of autonomy, a 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency, shock resistance rated to 5,000 Gs, and movement thickness of 3.85 mm—figures the brand emphasizes to position the UT01 as unusually robust for an ultra‑thin automatic tourbillon.
The choice of 18K rose gold is strategic: it amplifies the UltraFino’s sculptural lines and plays deliberately against the deep black PVD treatment applied to the UT01 movement. That visual contrast—warm gold framing an architectural monochrome movement—makes the floating tourbillon cage and finishing techniques read with greater depth on the wrist. Independent reviews noted the watch’s striking black‑and‑rose‑gold interplay at WatchTime, where the Gold Edition debuted.
Constructed in Grade 5 titanium, including main plate, bridges and the tourbillon cage, the UT01 uses the material’s high specific strength and non‑magnetic properties to minimize mass while retaining rigidity. A solid 18K gold rotor provides winding inertia; Bianchet shapes the rotor into twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals as a nod to the Golden Ratio, a recurring motif in the UltraFino design language intended to balance form and function.
That said, the watch arrives at a price tier where buyers must balance technical novelty against brand recognition and long‑term market dynamics. The titanium construction and unusual finishing approach are strengths from an engineering standpoint but invite scrutiny over long‑term aesthetic evolution and maintenance. Likewise, extreme numerical claims—shock resistance and winding efficiency—are compelling but should be verified against independent testing and in‑person experience where possible.
For collectors who value conceptual coherence, modern materials engineering and a bold visual identity rooted in the Golden Ratio, the UltraFino Gold Edition is an arresting, credible addition to contemporary independent watchmaking. For cautious buyers prioritizing market liquidity or classical movement materials, Bianchet’s offering is worth close inspection in person—and potentially a measured, informed acquisition rather than an impulse purchase.
The UltraFino Gold Edition signals Bianchet’s intent to operate at the intersection of art and performance: an elegant, technically ambitious tourbillon that seeks to be both wearable and conceptually rigorous. Whether it becomes a modern classic will depend on longer‑term factors—owner experience, secondary‑market reception, and continued proof that its engineering claims hold under real‑world conditions. For now, the Gold Edition stands as a radiant and thoughtful expansion of the UltraFino story.
Source: Luxurious Magazine Bianchet Elevates UltraFino With Radiant Gold Edition Tourbillon
Bianchet’s UltraFino line has been the Maison’s exercise in proportion, ergonomics, and structural lightness since the UT01 movement’s public emergence earlier in 2025. The collection is founded on a deliberate design language tied to the Golden Ratio, expressed across case geometry, movement bridges and, in the UT01, even the rotor geometry. The Gold Edition takes that language and reframes it in 18K rose gold, introduced to the public at WatchTime New York 2025—an event that this year doubled down on high‑end independent and established maisons showcasing technical novelties. Bianchet’s own technical datasheets and brand pages set the technical baseline: the UT01 is an automatic flying tourbillon constructed primarily from Grade 5 titanium, delivering about 60 hours of autonomy, a 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency, shock resistance rated to 5,000 Gs, and movement thickness of 3.85 mm—figures the brand emphasizes to position the UT01 as unusually robust for an ultra‑thin automatic tourbillon.
Design and Aesthetics
Tonneau case reimagined in rose gold
Bianchet retains the UltraFino’s signature tonneau silhouette—rounded, sculpted flanks and a curvature engineered for wrist ergonomics—while shifting materials from the titanium and carbon variants to a solid 18K rose gold case. The case dimensions remain consistent with the collection’s proportions: roughly 40 mm wide by 47.5 mm lug‑to‑lug and about 8.9 mm total case height, dimensions that favor both presence and daily wearability.The choice of 18K rose gold is strategic: it amplifies the UltraFino’s sculptural lines and plays deliberately against the deep black PVD treatment applied to the UT01 movement. That visual contrast—warm gold framing an architectural monochrome movement—makes the floating tourbillon cage and finishing techniques read with greater depth on the wrist. Independent reviews noted the watch’s striking black‑and‑rose‑gold interplay at WatchTime, where the Gold Edition debuted.
Two personalities: integrated bracelet vs. rubber strap
Bianchet offers the Gold Edition in two configurations: an integrated 18K rose gold bracelet that visually extends the case into a continuous ribbon of gold, and a black vulcanized rubber strap with an 18K rose gold pin buckle for a sportier, more contemporary look. The bracelet option emphasizes a classical luxury statement; the rubber strap option tilts the watch toward a modern tonneau‑sport aesthetic while retaining haute horlogerie credentials. Several outlets highlighted the bracelet’s seamless lines and the practicality of a supplied rubber strap for more active wear.Movement and Engineering
The Calibre UT01: light, thin, and engineered for resilience
At the core of the Gold Edition sits the in‑house Calibre UT01—an automatic flying tourbillon developed by Bianchet with a strong emphasis on low mass and high strength. The UT01’s headline numbers are rarefied: movement weight 8 grams, movement thickness 3.85 mm, and shock resistance up to 5,000 Gs. These figures are consistently published by Bianchet and corroborated by independent press coverage and hands‑on reports.Constructed in Grade 5 titanium, including main plate, bridges and the tourbillon cage, the UT01 uses the material’s high specific strength and non‑magnetic properties to minimize mass while retaining rigidity. A solid 18K gold rotor provides winding inertia; Bianchet shapes the rotor into twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals as a nod to the Golden Ratio, a recurring motif in the UltraFino design language intended to balance form and function.
Flying tourbillon and performance metrics
The flying tourbillon is positioned at 6 o’clock and uses a full titanium cage, visible from both dial and caseback. The movement runs at 3 Hz with a variable inertia balance wheel and is rated for approximately 60 hours of power reserve—figures aligned with modern luxury tourbillon expectations. Bianchet emphasizes testing and development; the brand claims the automatic winding system is efficient enough to fully wind the movement within a short wear window thanks in part to the rotor geometry. Independent publications that covered the WatchTime unveiling reiterated these performance claims after hands‑on inspection.Materials and Finishing
Titanium skeleton and black PVD
The UT01’s architecture uses black PVD‑coated grade 5 titanium to produce a dramatic visual plane under the sapphire dial. This choice serves two aims: to create contrast against the rose gold case and to underline the movement’s engineered character. Titanium’s surface treatment and finishing techniques underscore Bianchet’s dual pursuit of technical robustness and visual refinement.Traditional hand finishing: more than surface decoration
Bianchet reports over 15 hours of hand finishing per movement—anglage (beveling), mirror polishing, satin brushing and sandblasting—performed in its Swiss ateliers. Independent reviews noted the level of finishing visible through the caseback, particularly the polished bevels and satin surfaces on the titanium bridges, which are uncommon at this degree on titanium constructions due to the metal’s challenging finishing properties. The Maison’s emphasis on hand‑finishing places the UltraFino within haute horlogerie expectations while using contemporary materials.The Fibonacci rotor as a design statement
The rotor’s twelve interlocking Fibonacci spirals are more than decorative: Bianchet claims they are calibrated for winding efficiency and aesthetic symmetry. The motif ties back to the brand’s Golden Ratio philosophy, which is expressed across case geometry and movement architecture. Observers have characterized the rotor as a successful fusion of concept and utility, though the aesthetic choice is also a clear branding tool that differentiates Bianchet’s mechanical personality.Wearability and Practicality
Wrist comfort and dimensions
With a case width of 40 mm, 47.5 mm lug‑to‑lug, and 8.9 mm overall thickness, the UltraFino Gold Edition sits in a zone that balances dress and sport ergonomics. The case curvature—engineered to hug the wrist—helps reduce perceived size, making the gold version surprisingly wearable despite the weight of solid 18K gold. Reports from attendees at WatchTime New York noted how the Gold Edition reads smaller on the wrist than the dimensions might suggest, largely thanks to the integrated bracelet proportions and case curvature.Everyday robustness: shock and water resistance
One of the UltraFino UT01’s headline engineering claims is shock resistance up to 5,000 Gs, an unusually high rating for an ultra‑thin flying tourbillon. That figure has been repeatedly cited by the brand and confirmed by independent media reporting on the caliber’s stress testing and real‑world wear examples. The Gold Edition also carries a 5 ATM (50 meters) water resistance rating—adequate for daily wear and incidental exposure, but not intended for swimming or diving. Taken together, these attributes position the watch as an everyday haute horlogerie object rather than a fragile dress piece.Pricing and Market Positioning
How the Gold Edition is priced
Bianchet—and secondary reporting—places the UltraFino Gold Edition at a level that targets high‑end collectors and buyers of contemporary independent tourbillons. Published pricing varies slightly by configuration and by outlet, but there is consensus on the two‑tier offer:- Rubber‑strap version (18K rose gold case with rubber strap): approximately USD 98,500 (excluding taxes).
- Integrated 18K rose gold bracelet version (includes the rubber strap): approximately USD 135,800 (excluding taxes). Several outlets list the bracelet configuration as the higher‑priced, full‑package offer.
Market context and direct rivals
At these price points the UltraFino Gold Edition competes with independent micro‑manufactures and some established maisons that offer in‑house tourbillon watches with modern design cues. The watch’s unique value propositions are the combination of an ultra‑thin automatic flying tourbillon, titanium construction of the movement for lightness, visible hand finishing, and the design story grounded in the Golden Ratio. Its direct rivals are other contemporary independents offering sporty‑tonneau tourbillons or precious‑metal ultra‑thin tourbillons that blend haute finishing with modern materials.Critical Analysis: Strengths
1. Engineering ambition matched to a wearable form factor
Bianchet’s claim of an 8‑gram UT01 at 3.85 mm thickness is a genuine engineering achievement when taken at face value. The use of Grade 5 titanium for main plates, bridges and the tourbillon cage, together with a full‑gold rotor optimized in spiral form, demonstrates a coherent design philosophy where material selection serves both performance and aesthetics. Independent hands‑on reports from the industry corroborate the movement’s lightness and finishing quality.2. Robustness in an ultra‑thin package
The 5,000 G shock rating and 5 ATM water resistance are notable for a tourbillon this thin. If validated in independent testing, those figures address a longstanding collector concern that ultra‑thin, openworked tourbillons can be fragile for daily wear. Early wrist tests reported by media (including instances where athletes wore the watch during activity) suggest the caliber withstands realistic stresses better than many comparable ultra‑thins.3. Distinctive visual language tied to a clear conceptual story
The Golden Ratio and Fibonacci rotor concept are more than marketing gloss; they provide a unified visual and engineering narrative that gives the UltraFino identity and helps distinguish it from other tonneau tourbillons. For collectors who value concept‑driven design, the Gold Edition’s sculptural approach and visible mechanical conversation make it compelling.Critical Analysis: Risks and Caveats
1. Pricing vs. brand recognition
At nearly six figures, the UltraFino Gold Edition enters an intensely competitive field where buyers often prioritize heritage, resale liquidity, and brand recognition alongside technical merit. Bianchet is an independent Maison with rapidly expanding visibility, but it is not a legacy maison with century‑long brand equity. For buyers focused on investment potential or conventional brand cachet, Bianchet sits between established independents and new‑era micro‑brands—an exciting place artistically, but one that carries market‑adoption risk.2. Material choice and long‑term aesthetics
Titanium movement components finished to haute horlogerie standards are impressive and technically sensible, but titanium ages and polishes differently than traditional plated or steel components. While titanium confers non‑magnetic and lightness benefits, its patina and how hand‑finished bevels hold up over decades is less historically documented than steel or plated brass movements. Collectors who prize long‑term aesthetic stability should weigh this material tradeoff.3. Verification of technical claims
Bianchet’s 5,000 G shock resistance, weight and thickness figures are consistent across brand literature and independent reporting, yet the methodology behind the shock rating is not universally standardized in public watchmaking discourse. Buyers and journalists should seek detailed testing protocols—whether the rating is a measured ISO standard test, an in‑house simulated shock regimen, or derived from component design margins. Until independent third‑party lab validation is publicly documented, treat extreme shock‑resistance figures with cautious optimism.4. Practicality of gold bracelet on a 40 x 47.5 mm tonneau
The integrated gold bracelet is visually seamless, but heavy solid‑gold bracelets increase overall watch mass substantially compared to titanium or carbon variants. That weight changes the perceived wearability of a lightweight movement and could alter the comfort profile on smaller wrists. The rubber strap variant mitigates this concern and aligns better with the UltraFino’s ergonomic premise. Prospective buyers should try both configurations in person.Who should consider the UltraFino Gold Edition?
- Collectors who prioritize contemporary technical narratives and distinct design signatures over established brand prestige will find the UltraFino compelling.
- Buyers seeking an everyday‑wearable tourbillon—one with a strong engineering brief for shock resistance and a modest water resistance—will appreciate the UT01’s robustness claims.
- Those who prefer the tactile luxury of a precious‑metal object can choose the integrated gold bracelet for statement presence; active or travel‑oriented owners may prefer the rubber‑strapped configuration for balance and comfort.
Ownership considerations and aftercare
- Confirm configuration, price and availability with an authorized retailer—the Gold Edition is a limited high‑value piece and delivery/allocation timelines can vary by market.
- Insist on documented service intervals and warranty coverage. Bianchet currently offers a five‑year guarantee with the UltraFino line, which is competitive for independent manufactures but buyers should clarify service centers and expected maintenance costs.
- Request any independent testing reports or demonstrations of shock performance if shock resistance is a primary purchase driver; ask whether shock testing conforms to industry norms or internal protocols.
Final assessment
The Bianchet UltraFino Gold Edition is a carefully executed statement piece that advances the UltraFino concept into the realm of precious‑metal haute horlogerie without surrendering its engineering ambitions. Its strengths are clear: an impressively light and thin in‑house automatic flying tourbillon, robust design choices that aim to make the complication wearable, and high‑quality hand finishing on challenging materials. These attributes position the model as one of the more technically interesting — and visually immediate — tonneau tourbillons debuted at WatchTime New York 2025.That said, the watch arrives at a price tier where buyers must balance technical novelty against brand recognition and long‑term market dynamics. The titanium construction and unusual finishing approach are strengths from an engineering standpoint but invite scrutiny over long‑term aesthetic evolution and maintenance. Likewise, extreme numerical claims—shock resistance and winding efficiency—are compelling but should be verified against independent testing and in‑person experience where possible.
For collectors who value conceptual coherence, modern materials engineering and a bold visual identity rooted in the Golden Ratio, the UltraFino Gold Edition is an arresting, credible addition to contemporary independent watchmaking. For cautious buyers prioritizing market liquidity or classical movement materials, Bianchet’s offering is worth close inspection in person—and potentially a measured, informed acquisition rather than an impulse purchase.
The UltraFino Gold Edition signals Bianchet’s intent to operate at the intersection of art and performance: an elegant, technically ambitious tourbillon that seeks to be both wearable and conceptually rigorous. Whether it becomes a modern classic will depend on longer‑term factors—owner experience, secondary‑market reception, and continued proof that its engineering claims hold under real‑world conditions. For now, the Gold Edition stands as a radiant and thoughtful expansion of the UltraFino story.
Source: Luxurious Magazine Bianchet Elevates UltraFino With Radiant Gold Edition Tourbillon