Navigation section

Windows 7 first time building pc need advice

Solution
Digerati
Those are fine - especially the idle temps. I recommend you use a real-time hardware monitoring program (if not already using one). I like and use CoreTemp for newer Intel and AMD64 CPUs. It sits in your Notification Tray and you can configure it to display all cores, or just the hottest (which is what I do).

When the temps start rising above 60°C on a regular basis, it is probably time to clean the interior of all the heat trapping dust sucked in by the case fans. Of course ambient (room) temperatures will play a major role in heat control too.
Sort by date Sort by votes
1. I think that is a nice case with lots of excellent large fan support. :) And I am VERY HAPPY to see included dust filters - though from the review I read, I am not sure they are that easy to remove for washing. If you have to almost disassemble the case to remove the filters, that is not very convenient.

Also, note that pretty lights do nothing for performance, add some heat, consume some power and do nothing for performance (worth repeating). IMO, a case needs to sit quietly and discretely off to the side and NOT draw attention to itself. After all, I tend to pay attention to what's on my monitors and don't need any distractions from the case. I like the Antec Three Hundred. It is reasonably priced, very well built, sturdy, "true" (exactly 90° bends), lots of large (120mm or larger) fan support, including a 140mm “blowhole” (top) fan. It is not flashy, plus it has removable, washable air filters. Or the Antec Nine Hundred Two V3, with its monster, but silent 200mm "blowhole" (top) fan is hard to beat - even with its blue LEDs.

Also, Antec's fans are excellent so you would not need to buy any extra fans. But to that, that Sentey case has lots of fans, you don't to buy any more. However, that case includes two 80mm fans. Note for 80mm fans to move a lot of air, they have to spin at a much higher RPM than 120mm or larger fans. That means they WILL create more fan noise.

2. I like Corsair PSUs. But more importantly, WTG for selecting a 80-Plus certified PSU. To achieve 80-Plus certification the PSU MUST provide a fairly linear (flat) efficiency across a wide range of loads - as seen in computers (between idle and pushed). And it takes a good design and better quality (tighter tolerances) components to achieve a linear efficiency.

3. If more upgrade options in the future (including PCIe 3.0) are desired (and they should be IMO) I would go with the 3570.

4. Even if you don't care about preserving the 3-year warranty of your Intel (or AMD) CPU, it is essential you fully understand, and accept the consequences that using an aftermarket cooler on your CPU voids the warranty! And it also important you understand (in spite of unfounded and incorrect rumors and comments to the contrary) both Intel and AMD provide excellent coolers with their CPUs that are fully capable of providing adequate cooling even with mild to moderate overclocking. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate "flow" of cool air through the case and the CPU's HSF assembly need only toss the CPU's heat up into that flow.

5. Note that all motherboard makers provide QVLs (qualified vendors lists) for RAM and CPUs they have tested and verified are supported by their boards. You MUST ensure the CPU you select is on the list. However, there are too many RAM makers and model numbers for board makers to test them all so you MUST ensure any RAM you select matches the specification of listed RAM. Your QVLs are posted here.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
Change the PSU to this one Newegg.com - CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750 (CMPSU-750AX) 750W ATX12V v2.31 / EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

This one is GOLD certified means it has a high efficiency. This will save energy costs!!!
It is Semi-passive means the fan is deactived until 20% load.


I like your setup its very similar to mine. The intel 3570k is the right choice for gaming. If you want to render videos and stuff you could take the 3770k as well, but this will not bring any gaming performance +. The 2500k is no good choice anymore i think, since it costs nearly the same like the 3570k and has a bit less performance.

You got any reason for "Ultimate" version of Win7? Do you need the "Ultimate" features? If not, there you could save the money for the way better PSU.

You should keep your GPU till the next generation of GPUS are released since the AMD 7xxx and Nvidia 6xx series are'nt that much better as the AMD 6xxx and the nvidia 5xx series. Anyways only upgrade something if you need it. Your GPU should be good enough for anything out there yet.
 


Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
Thanks whats the difference between home,pro,and ult. I have ult
On my other rig so i was going for alt.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
I can't argue about the PSU. Gold is certainly more efficient than Bronze. But not by much! So it would take quite awhile to make up the difference in power costs.

Compare Windows 7 Versions - note that most users do not need Bitlocker or 35 languages on their computers. So most advanced users are more than happy with the Professional version though Home Premium is fine too.

That said, this is brand new, modern hardware, why not Windows 8? It is faster and more secure than Window 7. Do NOT believe for second that Windows 8 is all about touch screen systems. It is, but it is also for standard desktops with keyboards and mice too.

And remember, the new UI is just the desktop. 99% of the time, you are using your applications, not the desktop.

Sure, there's a little learning curve with something new, but that's life.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
Understand Windows 7 is much more secure out of the box than previous versions. And 64-bit Windows is more secure than 32-bit Windows (Windows 8 is more secure yet). Then Windows 7 (and 8) has an excellent firewall built in so you don't need a different one. All you need is a decent anti-malware solution. I think I have tried them all - and most are more than adequate at keeping you safe (assuming you keep them updated and avoid risk behavior). But for the last 3+ years, I have been using and recommend Link Removed. It is easy to use, easy to keep updated, it is free, no recurring renewal fees, it does not attempt to foist a bunch of bloat and other junk on our systems, and most importantly, it works.

Of course, there's still the weakest link issue - always the user - you. You still have to "practice safe computing" by keeping your system updated and avoiding risky behavior like illegal filesharing via torrents or P2P sites, or visiting illegal porn and gambling sites - places badguys frequent and often introduce their new malware - malware the anti-malware industry has yet to develop updates for.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
About Windows 7: Home is generally the most limited version, Professional and Ultimate are more extended by quality, and the support of the latter are probably being extended even from the present January 14, 2020, like XP support was. Considering the rather small difference in price, I would heartily recommend Professional or Ultimate.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
Just got done with this build every thing went smooth now for temp i ran prime95 for 12 hours with.max temp of 69c for the first couple passes and it dropped between 64-67c cor #2 all other cores running lower is this ok
 


Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
I don't like to see temps sit above 60°C - however Prime 95 intentionally stresses our systems to see if they remain stable when stressed. So in this case, I would not be too concerned.

What are your temps when you are idle? When surfing the net or using your favorite programs? When not running Prime95, I would like the temps to remain below 60°C. If not, you may need to consider adding an additional cooling fan to your case. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide and adequate supply and "flow" (typically front-to-back) of cool air through the case. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow.

Did you apply a proper layer of TIM (thermal interface material) or use the the supplied pad?
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
Those are fine - especially the idle temps. I recommend you use a real-time hardware monitoring program (if not already using one). I like and use CoreTemp for newer Intel and AMD64 CPUs. It sits in your Notification Tray and you can configure it to display all cores, or just the hottest (which is what I do).

When the temps start rising above 60°C on a regular basis, it is probably time to clean the interior of all the heat trapping dust sucked in by the case fans. Of course ambient (room) temperatures will play a major role in heat control too.
 


Upvote 1 Downvote
Solution
You might want to inspect your case to see if you can add another case fan in there - especially if you will be pushing your system hard much of the time. You want a good fan 120mm or larger. A good fan will be well designed and have precision bearings - good bearings result in smooth operation (no vibrations or rumblings which tend to reverberate through the case). I generally like at least one fan in the front of the case (if the case supports it) to draw cool air in and at least one fan in back (in addition to any in the PSU) to exhaust heated air out. Some cases support a "blow hole" fan, a fan on top of the case.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
2 x 80mm side blue led fans120mm Fans
1 x 120mm front blue led fan
2 x 120mm top blue led fans
1 x 120mm rear blue led fan
Click to expand...
If it comes with all those fans, I don't think adding any more will help.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
Well, if you already have 6 case fans in there, I would not add any more.
 


Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top