Sure it can - in just a matter of a second or two - remember 3GHz = 3 billion cycles per second! That is a lot of transistor flip-flopping in a very short time.I have not actually installed the CPU fan, I just have it sitting on top of the CPU. That wouldn't overheat in a matter of just a few seconds without it being driven by the OS...would it?
I actually would suspect the graphics solution first, but swapping monitors is usually easier. Also, I have had several monitors that refused to sync to standard VGA resolutions (which the BIOS menu uses) when connected via digital (DVI or HDMI) connection. I still use an older Viewsonic on one of my systems that behaves that way. Works great once booted into Windows, but if I want to see the BIOS Setup Menu, I have to reconnect using analog.Monitor??? I never considered that.
Still active as ever - but I spread my time around many sites - meaning less time at any one particular site.I haven't seen you around on the boards lately. Have you been on vacation?
Okay, I will paste and mount it. I knew that it could overheat that quickly in general use, but not just when displaying the intial BIOS screens. However, even if it did overheat, would it trip some kind of protection in the motherboard or power supply that would require that the power supply be cut-off for it to work again?Sure it can - in just a matter of a second or two - remember 3GHz = 3 billion cycles per second! That is a lot of transistor flip-flopping in a very short time.
You need to ensure the mating surfaces are clean, then apply a fresh, proper layer of TIM (thermal interface material) then properly mount and clamp the HSF assembly to ensure (1) uniform pressure and (2) all the heat trapping air has been squished out.
As mentioned earlier, I've already swapped out the video card, so that isn't the problem. However, I tend to doubt that the monitor is the problem, because it has it own power source, which is not interrupted and wouldn't be effected by powering the motherboard off and on.I actually would suspect the graphics solution first, but swapping monitors is usually easier. Also, I have had several monitors that refused to sync to standard VGA resolutions (which the BIOS menu uses) when connected via digital (DVI or HDMI) connection. I still use an older Viewsonic on one of my systems that behaves that way. Works great once booted into Windows, but if I want to see the BIOS Setup Menu, I have to reconnec
At any rate, I would sure make sure it was not the monitor or graphics solution before buying a new motherboard - or before buying anything, for that matter.
Good.Yup, that was the problem. I pasted and mounted the processor, and it now keeps running properly.
The chipset could certainly force a shutdown, or the CPU itself could go into self-protect mode. But the PSU would keep on chugging until signaled to shutdown, or (for better supplies, anyway) the PSU protection circuits detected an overcurrent condition.However, even if it did overheat, would it trip some kind of protection in the motherboard or power supply that would require that the power supply be cut-off for it to work again?
i agreeYou were very lucky that you didn't fry/burn up your CPU. I never, ever run a system w/out installing a CPU cooler of some sort.....stock or aftermarket....just to damn dangerous.
Nice pick up Dig.....
Thanks. This is something I learned (the hard, and expensive way) a long long time ago as a radio technician in the Air Force. The importance of a properly applied layer of TIM cannot be overemphasized - but sadly so often is overlooked, even by experienced computer users and assemblers who have not had formal electronics repair training.Nice pick up Dig.....
no aftermarket coolers are needed
Well, it is because I understand heat and electronics, and I understand the consequence for using aftermarket coolers.In any case, I'm a bit surprised that a person who emphasizes the bane of heat in his signature would discourage anyone from wanting better processor cooling.
hey I 100% agree with the thermal paste never going bad unless the bond is separated. I am a ham radio operator and have used all different kinds of paste including the white transistor paste and have never had to reapply any of them. I still have old tubes of arctic silver 2 and 3 and it is still good. I also still and always have used stock hsf coolers and have had no problems with them cooling. yes I have replaced a few of the fans due to bad bearings. good airflow is the key along with big cases. just my experience. poorguyThanks. This is something I learned (the hard, and expensive way) a long long time ago as a radio technician in the Air Force. The importance of a properly applied layer of TIM cannot be overemphasized - but sadly so often is overlooked, even by experienced computer users and assemblers who have not had formal electronics repair training.
And like I said, a "properly applied layer" of TIM is crucial. The most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact between the mating surfaces of the CPU die and the heatsink. The primary purpose of TIM is to push out the insulating air trapped in the microscopic pits and valleys of the mating surfaces. Too much TIM gets in the way and is actually counterproductive to the heat transfer process - even with the best quality TIM. This is why you want the thinnest layer possible, while still providing total coverage. And this is why thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces first is absolutely crucial - a tiny spec of dust (or old TIM) may as well be a boulder sitting in the way, allowing all sorts of bad, insulating air to be trapped in between.
While on my soapbox - I will also note that TIM does NOT wear out, go old, or go bad UNLESS the cured bond between the mating surfaces has been broken. That is, if you leave it alone, stop twisting the HSF to see if still tight, don't bounce the computer off the floor, the TIM will remain viable and effective long after the computer becomes obsolete - easily for 10, 15 years or longer.
So as a formally trained technician, I get upset when folks are (almost routinely) told to pull the HSF to replace the TIM to fix heat issues. That action is almost never needed (again - unless the cured bond has been broken) and it exposes the CPU and motherboard components needlessly to potential ESD destruction, improper cleaning of old TIM, misapplication of new TIM, and improper clamping of the HSF mounting mechanism.
Finally, while you can gain a few degrees by replacing the thermal OEM pads with a top quality aftermarket TIM, if you actually need those few degrees to keep temps below 60°C, you have other thermal issues that need to be addressed.
We (as helpers and as computer users/enthusiasts) must remember it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate "flow" of cool air through the case. And it is responsibility of the CPU's HSF assembly to simply toss the CPU's heat up into that flow - something, I might add, the OEM coolers supplied by Intel and AMD with their CPUs are perfectly capable of doing. In other words - no aftermarket coolers are needed - even with mild to moderate overclocking!!!
[soapbox mode off]
Which we buy by the tub. Works fine, lasts a long time. Of course we use more advanced TIM during final assemblies but for testing and troubleshooting, plain ol' silicon paste is great.different kinds of paste including the white transistor paste
I started out in the early 70s as a radio technician for the Air Force and over the years, I maintained Collins KWM-2s and KWM-2as and 30L-1 linears at several MARS stations - which I am sure makes sense to you.I am a ham radio operator and understand about cooling of electronics.
That's a point I would like to emphasis. The same holds true with aftermarket TIM (thermal interface materials).I have tried a zalmon cooper radial hsf on a Pentium d and it did lower my temps but not by much
I find it amazing how many folks don't understand that.you can only cool things as to what your ambient room temp is and that is generally as good as it will be