Linux New laptop need drivers updated+Linux

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S2K5150

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Hi,
I haven't been on this forum for many years. Luckily my pword manager & Authy still had the needed login info. You all have helped me greatly in the past & hopefully you can again.

I have a basically new Think Pad L15 20U3 that I got as a gift in 2021. It's only been turned on once or twice. As after Win 7 that I knew so well & lost all support from MS I wanted nothing to do with Windows. This machine came installed with Win 10 Home 64. I'm more computer literate than most, but a newbie with Linux.

1) I obviously don't want to use Windows & want to use Linux (possibly Zorin). I've tried different flavors on a desktop 5-6 years ago but never got acquainted with Linux.

2) I've received over 50 emails from Lenovo about driver updates. Do I install all these updates with Win 10 on the machine or go straight to Linux (whatever flavor) & update all the drivers & req software with Linux installed?

3) I know all Windows versions backwards & forwards up to Windows 7 & after that I know the guts but not all the new 'stuff'.

4) What I don't want to do is update all the divers, BIOS, etc then lose all of those moving to Linux. Obviously I wouldn't lose the BIOS. I also don't know how to update drivers in Linux, unless it's in a 'Windows' environment. I'm a beginner with the Linux command line.

5) I want to install Veracrypt & I've read only certain Linux versions will work. Best Linux version for VC? That's much later though.

I've been putting this off for years so any advice, instructions, best websites to follow would be greatly appreciated.

Thx,

J
 
Solution
Welcome back to the forum! That’s quite an intro—great to see someone with deep Windows knowledge venturing into the world of Linux. Let’s walk through your situation step by step:

1) Moving from Windows 10 to Linux (e.g., Zorin)​

Zorin OS is an excellent choice for Windows converts—its UI is very familiar, and it’s beginner-friendly. Other options with a smooth learning curve include Linux Mint or Ubuntu.

2) About Lenovo Driver Update Emails​

  • Windows Drivers: If you plan to wipe Windows entirely and install Linux, you can ignore the Lenovo Windows driver update emails. Windows-specific drivers will be irrelevant post-transition.
  • BIOS/UEFI Updates: One exception: Consider checking if your...
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If I want to dump Windows permanently & just use Zorin should I blow all the partitions out in Disk Management or we can do that later?
I honestly don't plan on going back to Windows unless I have a bunch of probs & things don't work. Which I'll know by just running it off the USB.

Still have my Win 10 image from 6-8 weeks ago if needed.
 
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Short answer: don’t delete anything in Windows. If you’re ready to go all‑in on Zorin, let the Zorin installer wipe the disk for you. It’s cleaner, faster, and guarantees the right UEFI/ESP layout. Windows Disk Management won’t even let you remove the EFI/Recovery partitions on the boot drive while Windows is running, and manual diskpart/gparted steps are easy to slip up.
Recommended flow
  • Boot the Zorin USB → Try Zorin (confirm Wi‑Fi, touchpad, etc).
  • Start Install → choose “Erase disk and install Zorin.”
  • Optional: click Advanced features to enable “Encrypt the new Zorin installation” (LUKS) and/or LVM.
  • Verify the target disk is your internal SSD and the summary shows a small EFI System Partition (~512 MB, FAT32) plus the Zorin partition(s). Proceed.
  • After first boot: run updates, optionally install Timeshift for snapshots, then re‑enable Lenovo “conservation mode” if you mostly stay on AC.
If you prefer manual partitioning, choose “Something else,” create a new GPT, then:
  • ESP: 512 MB, FAT32, mount point /boot/efi, flags: esp/boot
  • Root: rest of disk as ext4 mounted at /
  • Swap: optional (Zorin will use a swapfile if you skip a partition)
Keep your Macrium image and Windows install USB for a while; if you ever want Windows back, you can restore the image or clean‑install and your digital license will reactivate on this hardware.
 
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Hi,
Going through your pre check list before Zorin.
1) How many reboots should I keep BitLocker suspended? 0 for manual?
2) In my BIOS I don't see anything about 'Storage mode: if BIOS shows “RAID/RST,” switch to AHCI before Linux:'
I don't have a STHD, just a 7200 HDD. As I was told the STHD's can have issues with encryption.
3) If I can skip 'Storage Mode', then can I skip 1, 2, 3 in your above post?
4) Secure Boot is ON
5) Fast startup is OFF.

Thanks
 
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Nice work, Jay — sounds like you’re nearly ready for the Zorin switch. Here are direct answers to your questions, plus a quick plan you can follow.
1) BitLocker suspend
  • If you’re planning to wipe Windows and go all‑in on Zorin, you don’t need to keep BitLocker suspended for long. Best practice: suspend BitLocker right before you start the Linux install (so you don’t get recovery prompts if Windows ever boots), and re‑enable or leave it suspended only if you intend to keep Windows. Since you’re using the Windows image only as a fallback, you can suspend for the install window (a few reboots), then re‑enable later if you ever reinstall Windows.
2) Storage mode in BIOS (RAID/RST vs AHCI)
  • If you have a SATA/Storage option in BIOS, set it to AHCI for Linux compatibility. RAID/IRST mode can cause Linux boot/install headaches on many systems.
  • If you don’t see a SATA mode option, it’s fine — you can proceed with AHCI default or leave as is. The HDD you have should work with AHCI, but enabling AHCI is the safer route if the option is present.
3) If you skip Storage Mode, can you skip 1, 2, 3 in the earlier post?
  • No blanket skip. For a clean, reliable install, you should at least do:
    • 1) Boot the Zorin USB and run a live session (verify Wi‑Fi, touchpad, etc.).
    • 2) Start the Zorin install and choose how you want to partition (erase disk is simplest).
    • 3) If you skip the live test, you still want to verify in the installer that the target disk is correct and that the ESP exists. If you’re comfortable with manual partitioning, you can use “Something else,” but I’d recommend the erase disk path for a clean setup.
  • If you’re confident in the live test and want a quick wipe, you can go straight to Erase Disk in the installer, but don’t skip testing first.
4) Secure Boot
  • Keeping Secure Boot ON is fine. Zorin/Ubuntu-based installers typically support Secure Boot. If you run into boot issues, you can disable Secure Boot temporarily during the install, then re‑enable after the first boot updates.
5) Fast Startup
  • Good to have OFF. You did that.
Your current status sounds excellent (16 GB RAM detected, battery charging, Windows backup done). Once you’re ready, I’d follow the standard flow: boot from the Zorin USB, test in live mode, then install with Erase Disk (or manual if you want to partition). If you hit any snags with BIOS options or installer messages, post a quick screenshot and I’ll walk you through the exact next steps.
 
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I keep seeing this 'caution' sign on my C: drive & I don't know why. Thus no BitLocker suspend options. No notification errors or probs I can see. Any idea what it is & how to get rid of it?

Pic attached.
 
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Nice progress, Jay. The yellow caution on C: is Windows asking you to pay attention to that drive. It isn’t necessarily an error, but it can be a sign of something Windows is monitoring (encryption, disk health, or a warning flag). Let’s quickly confirm what it is and clear it.
What to check now (quick triage)
  • BitLocker status: open PowerShell as admin and run:
    • Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C:
    • If BitLocker is on or suspended, you’ll see something about protection status. If you’re not using BitLocker, it should show as not encrypted.
  • Disk health / errors: run CHKDSK to check for fixes:
    • Open an elevated Command Prompt and run: chkdsk C: /F /R
    • If prompted to schedule on reboot, type Y and reboot. This checks and repairs file system errors and bad sectors.
  • S.M.A.R.T. status: quick check from PowerShell:
    • Get-PhysicalDisk | Select MediaType, Size, Status
    • Or use wmic diskdrive get status
    • If the status isn’t OK, you may have a lurking disk health issue.
  • Disk management view: open Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc) and look at C:. It should show as “Healthy (Boot, Page File, Crash Dump, Primary Partition)” with no warnings. If any partition is offline, “unallocated,” or shows a warning symbol, note which one.
If you’re not seeing anything obvious after these checks
  • You can leave BitLocker as-is (suspend only if you truly plan to decrypt or re-install Windows later). In a Zorin-only scenario, you’ll likely end up wiping Windows entirely, so you can ignore any pending BitLocker prompts during the Linux install.
  • If CHKDSK and SMART come back clean and Disk Management shows C: healthy, the caution icon may be a stale flag from a prior state. A reboot after Windows completes any checks often clears it.
If you want, paste or share a screenshot of:
  • The exact tooltip or warning text when you hover the caution icon,
  • The Disk Management view showing C: status,
  • And the output of the BitLocker / CHKDSK / SMART checks.
I’ll interpret them and give you precise next steps. And great job on getting Windows backup done—you’re in a solid spot for the Linux switch.
 
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I can run chkdsk as I've done that prob 300 times. Here's what disk management says, bitlocker status, & drive status. All good.

Could be the driver is old for the HDD as it's from 2006. I search for a updated driver & nothing.

When I hover over the caution it says nothing except used & available capacity.
 
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Nice job on the quick triage, Jay. The “caution” icon on C: is Windows flagging something about that drive, not a hard error. Since Disk Management shows healthy and you’ve got a 2006 HDD, the likely causes are either a) Windows sees an underlying issue (bad sectors, firmware quirks, or a stale health flag) or b) something related to the age of the drive (no updates, driver not a thing for that old kit, etc.). Here’s a tight plan to confirm and (if needed) clear it.
What to do now (quick checks)
  • Check drive health and SMART details
    • Use a portable SMART tool (e.g., CrystalDiskInfo) to confirm if the drive is OK or warning. If it shows “Caution” or fails SMART tests, plan for a backup and replace.
  • Run key Windows checks
    • Open an elevated CMD or PowerShell and run:
    • chkdsk C: /F /R (schedule on reboot if prompted)
    • sfc /scannow
    • DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
  • Look for clues in Event Viewer
    • Open Event Viewer > Windows Logs > System and filter for Disk/Storage errors in the last few days. Any I/O errors or bad-block notices are red flags.
  • Confirm BitLocker status and partitions
    • Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C: in PowerShell to verify there’s no hidden BitLocker issue causing a warning.
  • Verify Disk Management view
    • If C: shows as “Healthy” with a healthy partition layout and no warnings, the icon is likely a stale warning rather than an active fault.
If the warning persists but all tests pass
  • It’s most likely a reliability warning from Windows about the old disk. You can safely ignore it for now, but plan to replace the drive soon (SSD upgrade would be a huge reliability and performance win).
  • Maintain a solid backup: you’ve already done Macrium; consider keeping a recent backup plan and, if you clone later, swap to a fresh SSD to avoid future drama.
If the tests show real problems
  • Replace the HDD (or add an SSD as the primary drive) and clone your backup. That will also clear the warning icon in Windows.
  • After replacement, run a fresh Windows health check (Disk Management and SMART) to confirm the icon is gone.
If you want, paste the exact text from the Disk Management tooltip and the SMART readout, plus any event messages. I’ll interpret precisely what Windows is warning about and tell you whether it’s safe to ignore or if a drive swap is the right move.
 
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I attached a bunch of pics for you but they didn't post They did upload..
New IOS 26 prob.. I'll try again..
 
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Nice work pushing through the checks, Jay. The yellow caution icon is a Windows flag, not a hard fail, but it can be easy to misinterpret with an aging drive. Since you’ve got the data and backups in place, here’s a concise plan to pin down what’s going on and what to do next.
What to verify now (quick triage)
  • BitLocker status
    • Run this in an elevated PowerShell:
    • Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C:
    • If it says LOK or Protected: On, you’re seeing BitLocker in action. If it says NotEncrypted or Not Present, you’re not using BitLocker on C:.
  • Disk health / SMART
    • Use a SMART read (PowerShell or a tool):
    • Get-PhysicalDisk | Select MediaType, Size, Status
    • Or wmic diskdrive get status
    • If SMART shows OK, the warning is likely not a current hard fault.
    • If SMART reports warnings or “Predicted Failure” or a failing attribute, plan for a drive replacement soon.
  • Disk health deep dive
    • Run CHKDSK /F /R if you haven’t recently (you mentioned you’ve done this many times). If prompted for reboot, allow it.
    • Open Event Viewer > Windows Logs > System and look for Disk/Storage errors in the last few days. Any I/O errors are a clue.
  • Disk Management view
    • In Disk Management, C: should be “Healthy (Boot, Page File, Primary Partition)” with no warning icons on the drive or partitions.
Why the caution might be there
  • On an older HDD (like a 2006 mechanical drive), Windows sometimes flags the drive even when it’s technically healthy but aging, especially if there are occasional bad sectors or firmware quirks.
  • If the drive shows “Healthy” in Disk Management and BitLocker is off, the caution symbol is often a harmless, lingering alert rather than an active fault.
What to do if the tests are all clean
  • If CHKDSK, SMART, and Disk Management all look good, the caution symbol can be considered a benign flag. You can ignore it for now, but plan for a cheap, reliable upgrade (SSD) soon to avoid future headaches and to improve performance.
  • Keep a fresh backup habit (you’ve already imaged with Macrium) and consider a routine to snapshot your Windows install before any major changes.
If you see real problems
  • If SMART shows a warning or CHKDSK finds bad sectors, back up ASAP and plan to replace the drive (preferably with an SSD). Then you can clone your backup onto the new drive and re‑install Windows or migrate data as needed.
  • After replacing, you’ll likely want to disable the old drive in BIOS/UEFI until you’re ready to retire it, and carry on with Zorin on a fresh disk layout.
About the attachments
  • I didn’t see the pics yet in this chat. If you can re-upload or paste key details from the screenshots (especially Disk Management view and any SMART readouts), I’ll give you a precise read on what Windows is signaling and the exact next steps.
If you want, you can also paste:
  • The exact text of the warning tooltip when you hover the icon.
  • A quick screenshot of Disk Management (C: row and any unallocated space).
  • The output of Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C:, CHKDSK results, and SMART info.
I’ll translate that into a crystal-clear plan and the exact next commands to run. You’re almost there—the “fun” part is Linux on Zorin next!
 
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Another attempt to attach. I'm baffled why these pics won't show.. I did the same thing weeks ago & no issues.
 
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Nice. Let’s pin down what that caution icon is telling you and what to do next.
What the caution likely means
  • The yellow caution on C: is a Windows flag, not a hard failure. It often appears when Windows is watching the drive’s health or encryption state, especially on old disks. If Disk Management shows C: as Healthy, the flag is usually benign and can disappear after a reboot or after the OS finishes any background checks. You’re not seeing active errors, which is a good sign. This matches what I’ve seen in similar cases.
Quick triage you can run (copiable steps)
  • BitLocker status (PowerShell Admin):
    • Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C:
    • If BitLocker is NotEncrypted, you’re not using BitLocker on C:. If it shows On/Suspended, you’ll know why the option isn’t showing.
  • Disk health and SMART:
    • Get-PhysicalDisk | Select MediaType, Size, Status
    • Or: wmic diskdrive get status
    • If SMART shows OK, the caution is likely not a live fault.
  • Check disk for filesystem issues:
    • chkdsk C: /F /R (you can schedule on reboot if prompted)
    • sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth as general health checks
  • Disk Management view:
    • diskmgmt.msc — confirm C: is “Healthy (Boot, Page File, Primary Partition)” with no warning icons on the C: row.
  • If you can share the exact tooltip text you see when you hover the icon, plus a screenshot of Disk Management and the BitLocker/SMART outputs, I’ll give you a precise reading and next steps.
What to do next if tests look clean
  • If CHKDSK/SMART/Disk Management are all fine, the caution is likely a stale flag. You can ignore it for now, but keep the Windows backup plan solid (you already did Macrium).
  • Given the age of the HDD (and no vendor driver updates), plan an upgrade to an SSD when possible. It will improve reliability and remove this kind of warning entirely.
If you want to share the screenshots or the exact outputs from the commands above, I’ll give you a precise read and tell you exactly what to do next.
 
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Thanks — and thanks for retrying the upload. If the forum attachment still misbehaves, no worries: paste the short text outputs I list below instead (they’re faster to grab and just as diagnostic). Either attach screenshots (Disk Management, the tooltip when you hover the yellow , and a SMART readout from CrystalDiskInfo) or paste the command outputs — I’ll interpret them right away.
Quick checklist — what I need from you (pick one: upload screenshots or paste text)
A — Screenshots to attach
  • Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc) showing the C: row and any nearby partitions.
  • Hover the yellow over C: and screenshot the tooltip (if it shows nothing except used/available, still grab it).
  • A SMART readout screenshot from CrystalDiskInfo (portable version is easiest).
    Attach them (JPG/PNG). If the forum rejects large images, zip them or use a picture-host (Imgur) and paste the link.
B — If uploads fail, run these commands and paste the outputs (copy/paste the full text into your reply)
1) BitLocker status (PowerShell, admin):
Get-BitLockerVolume -MountPoint C: | Format-List *
2) Basic disk health summary:
wmic diskdrive get Model,SerialNumber,Status,Caption
3) Windows physical disk status:
Get-PhysicalDisk | Format-Table FriendlyName,MediaType,Size,HealthStatus -Auto
(run in PowerShell as admin)
4) Logical disk free/used (CMD or PowerShell):
wmic logicaldisk get DeviceID,Size,FreeSpace,VolumeName
5) CHKDSK log (if you recently ran chkdsk and it ran at boot):
  • Open Event Viewer → Windows Logs → Application → find the entry from Wininit with source "Chkdsk" (copy the text).
    6) (Optional) Recent disk errors from System log (Event Viewer):
  • Event Viewer → Windows Logs → System → Filter Current Log → Event sources: disk, volmgr, ntfs — then copy any Disk/IO errors you see.
If you prefer a SMART GUI (recommended)
  • Download CrystalDiskInfo Portable, run it, and either:
    • Note the drive health summary (Good / Caution / Bad) and any failing SMART attributes (Reallocated_Sector_Count, Current_Pending_Sector, Uncorrectable_Sector_Count), or
    • Screenshot the window and attach it.
Quick troubleshooting if the icon persists and all tests look clean
  • Reboot and let CHKDSK run if scheduled (sometimes Windows leaves a stale flag until a boot‑time check completes).
  • If everything is clean (SMART = OK, Disk Management = Healthy, BitLocker = NotEncrypted), the yellow icon is likely a stale/benign flag. You can ignore it but plan a replacement SSD later (the HDD is old). See earlier guidance I gave.
If the outputs show problems
  • If SMART shows caution / failing attributes, or Event Viewer shows I/O errors, backup immediately and plan to replace the disk (SSD recommended). I’ll walk you through cloning the Macrium image to the new SSD and making it bootable.
If attaching images: a few tips so they actually upload
  • Keep each image under ~5–8 MB (use phone camera medium size or resize).
  • Use PNG/JPG, not HEIC. If you must use HEIC, convert to JPG first.
  • If the forum blocks upload, zip the images (under 10 MB total) and attach the zip.
  • Or upload to Imgur and paste the direct image links here.
Next step for you
  • Try one of the two options above (attach the screenshots or paste the outputs from the commands). I’ll read them and give exact, step‑by‑step next actions — including how to clear the icon if it’s a stale flag, or how to replace the drive safely if it’s failing.
References
  • The yellow caution is usually a Windows drive‑health/encryption flag; if Disk Management/SMART/CHKDSK are clean, it’s often benign — still worth checking SMART and Event Viewer.
Ready when you are — paste outputs or attach the images and I’ll parse them immediately.
 
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I figured it out. Last time I used it I suspended Bitlocker permanently with '0'. Turned BL back on & flag went away.

Glad I ran sfc/scannow as it did find some integrity errors & fixed them. Crystal, SMART, & disk mgt days my HDD is good to go. It's not a 2006 drive. It's the driver that's got that date. Probably can go to Western Digital's website & flash the firmware/update the driver.

Going to run chkdsk for good measure. Will install Linux tmrw evening.
 
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Perfect — nice detective work, Jay. Glad you found the cause and fixed it.
Quick recap — you did exactly the right things
  • You re‑enabled BitLocker and the yellow caution cleared. Good catch.
  • sfc /scannow repaired integrity errors. Smart.
  • CrystalDiskInfo / SMART and Disk Management look healthy — no urgent drive replacement needed.
  • Running CHKDSK for one more pass is a good final check before wiping.
One small note before you erase Windows for Zorin
  • If you plan to fully wipe the disk, turn BitLocker off (decrypt) first — otherwise Windows may trigger recovery/TPM issues during/after the install. Two options:
    • Temporary suspend (if you’ll keep Windows): manage-bde -protectors -disable C:
    • Fully decrypt (recommended if you’ll erase): manage-bde -off C:
    • Check progress/status with: manage-bde -status C:
      (Run these in an elevated PowerShell / Admin CMD.) If you fully decrypt, wait until manage-bde reports 0% encrypting/decrypting in the status output.
Final pre‑install checklist for Zorin (short)
  1. Verify backups: confirm your Macrium image and create a recovery USB for Windows (just in case).
  2. Decrypt C: or suspend BitLocker (see commands above).
  3. Boot Zorin USB → Try Zorin live mode — check Wi‑Fi, touchpad, audio, brightness keys.
  4. Installer: choose “Erase disk and install Zorin” (clean, easiest). Keep Secure Boot on — Zorin generally supports it.
  5. First boot: update the system, install drivers/firmware if prompted.
  6. Optional: enable full‑disk encryption during Zorin install if you want protection similar to BitLocker (LUKS).
If anything pops up during the installer (wrong disk shown, GRUB messages, or Secure Boot complaints), pause and post a quick photo/screenshot here — I’ll walk you through the exact button to click.
Enjoy the Zorin install tomorrow — you’ve already done the hard prep. If you hit any snags or want me to walk through the installer step‑by‑step, I’m right here.
 
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Hi. I successfully tried Zorin on my USB & everything worked fine. Did a full install & began downloading Apps.

The pword I set for my account was too long so I changed it but didn't put in my passcode manager. Now I can't remember it & have tried every combo of #'s I can think of.

Do I need to reinstall Zorin?
 
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Good news — you almost certainly do NOT need to reinstall. You can reset a local user password on Zorin (Ubuntu‑based) in a few minutes. Which exact method to use depends on whether you enabled any encryption during install:
  • If you DID NOT encrypt the disk or your home folder: use Recovery Mode (simplest) or a Live USB → chroot.
  • If you DID enable full‑disk LUKS or encrypted home (ecryptfs), tell me — we must be careful because a naive password change can make encrypted home data inaccessible unless you follow the correct steps.
Before we start: quick question
  • Did you enable “Encrypt the new Zorin installation” (LUKS whole‑disk) or “encrypt my home folder” during install? (Yes / No)
If the answer is “No” (no encryption) — Recovery Mode method (fastest)
  1. Reboot the laptop.
    • Hold Shift (BIOS/GRUB) or press Esc repeatedly after the firmware screen so the GRUB menu appears.
  2. In the GRUB menu choose Advanced options for Zorin (or the entry with “(recovery mode)”).
  3. Select the recovery mode entry and, from the recovery menu, choose "Drop to root shell prompt" (or “root — Drop to root shell prompt”).
  4. The root shell is mounted read‑only by default. Remount read/write:
    mount -o remount,rw /
  5. Reset the password for your username (replace yourusername):
    passwd yourusername
    • Enter a new password twice. (If it complains about PAM or root not allowed, see note below.)
  6. If you prefer to create a new admin user instead:
    adduser newuser
    usermod -aG sudo newuser
  7. Reboot:
    reboot
  8. Log in with the new password (or new user). If the desktop refuses login, try switching to tty (Ctrl+Alt+F3) and log in there to confirm.
Notes / common issues:
  • If your home directory is encrypted with eCryptfs (you saw an option at install time), resetting your login password without also wrapping/unwrapping the ecryptfs passphrase can lock your files. Tell me if you used “encrypt home.”
  • If the display manager still rejects the password after reset, switch to tty and test passwd yourusername there again, then sudo systemctl restart gdm3 (or lightdm) or simply reboot.
If the answer is “Yes” (you used LUKS full‑disk or encrypted home) — safer route
  • If you used full‑disk LUKS, you still can boot and unlock the disk at boot; then recovery mode or a chroot from Live USB will work the same. If you used ecryptfs home encryption, do NOT change the login password blindly — tell me and I’ll give the exact ecryptfs recovery steps so your files stay accessible.
Alternative: Live USB → mount → chroot (works if GRUB recovery not available)
  1. Boot from your Zorin Live USB (Try Zorin).
  2. Open Terminal. Identify your root partition:
    sudo fdisk -l
    (look for the partition containing your Linux filesystem, e.g. /dev/sda2)
  3. Mount it:
    sudo mount /dev/sdXY /mnt # replace sdXY with the root partition
    sudo mount --bind /dev /mnt/dev
    sudo mount --bind /proc /mnt/proc
    sudo mount --bind /sys /mnt/sys
  4. Chroot:
    sudo chroot /mnt
  5. Reset password:
    passwd yourusername
    or create a new sudo user:
    adduser newuser
    usermod -aG sudo newuser
  6. Exit and reboot:
    exit
    sudo umount /mnt/dev /mnt/proc /mnt/sys /mnt
    reboot
If anything errors, paste the exact error text here and I’ll guide you.
Final tips
  • After you regain access, pick a new password you’ll store in your password manager (you mentioned using one — perfect).
  • If you used disk/home encryption, tell me which one so I can walk you through the safest procedure.
  • If you want, I can write the exact keypress sequence and copy‑paste commands for your situation so you can follow them step‑by‑step.
Tell me whether the install used encryption (LUKS or encrypted home). If not, which method would you prefer — Recovery Mode or Live USB chroot — and I’ll give exact, copy‑paste commands and the minimal GRUB keystrokes for Zorin.
 
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No I didn't install any encryption upon installation. As I wanted to use Veracrypt after getting used to Zorin.
I figured 2 different encryption protocols would cause probs on Zorin.

I was going to ask you about this soon. Veracrypt vs. LUKS. Assuming you can't use both & overkill.
 
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Nice — thanks for confirming you didn’t enable LUKS/ecryptfs at install. That keeps the recovery simple. Below is a focused, practical comparison of VeraCrypt vs LUKS and a clear recommendation for what to use when — plus a few concrete next steps and cautions so you don’t paint yourself into an unrecoverable corner.
Short summary up front
  • If you want full‑disk encryption for your Zorin system (single‑OS Linux) — use LUKS. It’s native, simpler for system drives, performs slightly better, and integrates with the boot process.
  • If you need cross‑platform encrypted volumes (portable drives or files you must open on Windows/macOS), use VeraCrypt.
  • You can use both together (LUKS for the system + VeraCrypt for portable containers) but you generally don’t need both for the same data.
Quick comparison (practical points)
1) LUKS (Linux Unified Key Setup)
  • Best for: full‑disk encryption (system/root) or encrypting entire partitions used primarily on Linux.
  • Integration: native to Linux — unlocks at boot (initramfs prompt), works smoothly with system updates and swap management.
  • Performance: good (kernel crypto acceleration available).
  • Management: uses cryptsetup; supports passphrases, keyslots, backup/restore of LUKS header. Can integrate with TPM2 / clevis for automated unlocking (advanced).
  • Portability: NOT readable natively on Windows without 3rd‑party tools (e.g., LibreCrypt or Linux on Windows not straightforward). So not ideal if you must access the disk on Windows.
  • Recovery: make a LUKS header backup; losing header or passphrase = loss of data.
2) VeraCrypt
  • Best for: cross‑platform encrypted containers (.hc/.tc files) and encrypted external drives that you will open on Windows/macOS/Linux. Also supports hidden volumes & system‑drive encryption on Windows (but less relevant on Linux).
  • Integration: user‑space tool; you mount containers after login. You can put a VeraCrypt volume on any filesystem (NTFS/exFAT/ext4), but to open on Windows the container or drive must be on a Windows‑accessible filesystem.
  • Performance: slightly slower than LUKS (user‑space, but acceptable for most use cases).
  • Portability: Excellent — same volume format across OSes.
  • Recovery: VeraCrypt allows header backup, keyfiles. Losing password/header = loss of data.
  • Use cases: share encrypted files with Windows users, carry an encrypted container on USB, or use a container to hide a set of sensitive files.
Can you/should you use both?
  • Yes — and it’s reasonable: LUKS for full‑disk encryption of your system (protects OS & swap & hibernation) and VeraCrypt containers for portable files you might need to open on Windows.
  • No harm in storing a VeraCrypt container inside a LUKS‑encrypted disk (double encryption — secure but often overkill). But make sure you keep VeraCrypt header backups and remember the passwords.
Which should you pick for Zorin?
  • Single‑boot Linux, want system protection: use LUKS during install. It’s the easiest and most robust for protecting the whole drive.
  • You specifically want portability to/from Windows/macOS (external drive or files): use VeraCrypt containers.
  • Since you said you plan to learn Zorin first and then use VeraCrypt, a practical approach:
    1. Install Zorin with NO full‑disk encryption now (as you did).
    2. Create one or more VeraCrypt containers (on the Linux filesystem or an external drive) for files you want cross‑platform. This avoids having to reinstall if you change your mind.
    3. Later, if you decide you want the whole system encrypted, you can reinstall and enable LUKS then — or migrate to a new disk with LUKS.
Concrete pros/cons (one‑line)
  • LUKS: native, secure, seamless for system encryption. Not cross‑platform.
  • VeraCrypt: cross‑platform containers, great for portability and sharing. Not as integrated for system boot.
Practical recommendations / steps for you right now
  1. Password recovery first (you already know methods). Once logged back in, do this:
    • Install VeraCrypt: sudo apt update && sudo apt install veracrypt
      (If not in apt repos, download the .deb from official VeraCrypt and install with dpkg -i.)
    • Create a VeraCrypt container for your important secrets (e.g., 10–100 GB depending on needs). Use a strong password and save header backup and the password in your password manager.
  2. Use Timeshift for system snapshots (like System Restore). Install and configure it so you have rollback points.
  3. If later you want full disk encryption: plan a reinstall with LUKS enabled (or clone to a new disk and set up LUKS). Back up everything first.
  4. Always export and securely store any recovery keys/header backups (for VeraCrypt and LUKS header backup). If you lose them, data is unrecoverable.
Practical tips when using VeraCrypt on Linux
  • Use keyfiles + passphrase for higher security (but store keyfile somewhere safe — e.g., on a YubiKey or USB you keep secure).
  • Back up the VeraCrypt volume header (menu → Volume Tools → Backup Volume Header) immediately after creating it.
  • If you want the container usable on Windows, place it on an NTFS/exFAT partition (Windows mounts ext4 poorly). If you store the container on ext4 you’ll need extra steps to access it on Windows.
  • For external drives you want to use on both OSes, format the drive NTFS or exFAT and put a VeraCrypt container on it.
One more real‑world example to help decide
  • Scenario A — You mainly use this ThinkPad at home, never need Windows access to files: use LUKS (encrypt whole disk at reinstall).
  • Scenario B — You want to take an encrypted USB stick to friends’ Windows PCs: use VeraCrypt containers on the USB (exFAT/NTFS).
  • Scenario C — You want both: reinstall with LUKS for system security AND keep a VeraCrypt container on an external drive for portability.
If you want, I’ll
  • Walk you through creating a VeraCrypt container step‑by‑step on Zorin (GUI or CLI).
  • Give exact commands to install VeraCrypt via .deb if your repo doesn’t have it.
  • Show how to back up the VeraCrypt header and how to mount/unmount from the Zorin file manager.
Which would you like next?
  • “Show me how to create a VeraCrypt container and mount it on Zorin” — I’ll give the exact GUI steps and the CLI commands.
  • Or “Explain how to reinstall Zorin with LUKS full‑disk encryption later” — I’ll walk you through partitioning, installer options, and header backups.
Pick one and I’ll give the step‑by‑step with copy‑paste commands.
 
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