Microsoft Drivers Windows 11 Pro Version 22H5

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Carolinaboy79

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Since updating my computer to Windows 11 Pro Version 25H2, I developed numerous issues that I've been trying to fix. Research indicates that there is a strong possibility that incompatible drivers could be the cause. While trying to verify if there was an updated driver to the one installed, I noticed that the drivers installed for my AMD Ryzen 5 5600G CPU, my Logitek Signature K855 mouse, and Logitek keyboard belong to Microsoft. I've attempted to download and install updated drivers from AMD and Logitek, but they will not replace the installed Microsoft drivers. Does Microsoft have something in Windows 11 Version 25H2 that is preventing the installation of the updated drivers and if so, I do I get around it?
 
Solution
What you’re seeing is usually normal, and Windows 11 25H2 isn’t “blocking” AMD/Logitech drivers in the way it sounds—but Windows can (a) prefer inbox/class drivers from Microsoft for certain device types, and (b) replace vendor drivers later via Windows Update if it thinks its driver is a better “match.”

1) Why your “drivers” show as Microsoft​

AMD Ryzen 5 5600G “CPU driver” = Microsoft (normal)​

In Device Manager, the entries under Processors almost always show Driver Provider: Microsoft. There typically isn’t a separate “AMD CPU driver” to install there.
What does matter for AMD platforms is:
  • AMD Chipset Drivers (from AMD)
  • AMD Radeon Graphics (APU)...
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That’s normal behavior if you launched ipconfig from Run or the Start menu as a one-off command: it opens a console, runs, and immediately exits—so the window “flashes” and closes.
Here are 3 easy ways to run it so the window stays open (pick whichever feels simplest):

Option A (simplest): Open Command Prompt first, then type ipconfig​

  1. Click Start
  2. Type cmd
  3. Click Command Prompt
  4. In the black window, type:
    ipconfig
  5. Press Enter

Option B: Force the window to stay open (/k)​

  1. Press Win + R
  2. Type:
    cmd /k ipconfig
  3. Press Enter

Option C (best for sharing results): Save output to a file on your Desktop​

This avoids copy/paste hassle.
  1. Click Start → type cmd → open Command Prompt
  2. Run:
    ipconfig /all > "%USERPROFILE%\Desktop\ipconfig.txt"
  3. Go to your Desktop and open ipconfig.txt, then paste back just these lines:
    • Default Gateway
    • DNS Servers
    • Under your Wireless LAN adapter Wi‑Fi section: IPv4 Address and DHCP Server
This “redirect to a text file” method is a classic way to capture ipconfig output. , please run one more command (this tells us 2.4 vs 5 GHz)
In the same Command Prompt window, run:
netsh wlan show interfaces
Then paste back:
  • SSID
  • Radio type
  • Channel
  • Receive rate (Mbps) and Transmit rate (Mbps)
(Channels 1–11 are usually 2.4 GHz, while 36+ are usually 5 GHz.)
Once you paste those few lines, I’ll tell you the single next setting to change for the Realtek 8852BE (power/performance/band preference) based on what your PC is actually connected to.
 
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I have been using the Logitech Model # MR0013 wireless trackball. I found my previous Logitech wireless mouse Model # TR0006 and switched. The mouse movement has returned to normal.
 
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That’s a very important result.
If switching from the Logitech MR0013 trackball to the older Logitech TR0006 mouse immediately makes pointer movement normal again, then Windows/25H2 itself is probably not “slowing the mouse”—it’s much more likely one of these:
1) The MR0013 device itself (dirty sensor/ball, failing switch, etc.)
2) Low/weak batteries in the MR0013 (this can cause lag/“choppy” tracking)
3) The MR0013 USB receiver / USB port / interference (especially with 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi nearby)
4) Logitech software (Options/Options+), affecting one device profile but not the other

Quick questions (so we know which)​

1) When you swapped to the TR0006, did you also swap to a different USB receiver, or are both devices using the same receiver?
2) Is Logi Options / Logi Options+ installed?

If you want to keep using the MR0013 trackball (most effective fixes, low effort)​

1) Batteries + cleaning (fastest)​

  • Put brand new batteries in the MR0013.
  • Pop the ball out and clean the 3 little rollers/sensors inside (a tiny bit of lint/gunk can cause weird behavior that looks like “lag”).

2) Receiver placement (very common with Logitech)​

Even when the mouse “works,” the receiver can get hammered by interference.
  • Plug the receiver into a rear USB 2.0 port (not front panel, not a hub).
  • Best: use a short USB extension cable to place the receiver on the desk closer to your hand and away from the PC.

3) Re-pair / change USB port​

  • Move the receiver to a different USB port and test.
  • If it’s a Unifying receiver, re-pairing the device can help (Logitech Unifying Software).

One more thing to confirm​

Earlier, you also had the keyboard repeating keys during the “freeze” (e.g., kkkkkkk). Now that the mouse looks normal, are you still seeing:
  • the 1–2 second freezes, or
  • stuck/repeating keys, or
  • browser “back” needing 2 clicks?
If those are also gone, then this was almost certainly receiver/device interference or MR0013 hardware/battery/cleanliness.
Reply with:
  • whether you swapped receivers (yes/no),
  • whether Options/Options+ is installed,
  • and whether the keyboard/freezing symptoms are still happening.
 
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Yes, I swapped receivers using the receiver that came with the TR0006. Logitech Options+ software is installed. So far, no temporary freezing or erratic mouse pointer movement. Now that I know the problem is with my MR0013 wireless mouse, I can troubleshot it. Battery power is at 85% (battery charged by USB charging cable). It's a new mouse. The mouse has it's own receiver but is also a bluetooth device. Keyboard also.
 
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Good — swapping receivers and seeing all the freezing/erratic pointer issues stop is a strong indication the problem is not Windows blocking drivers, but something specific to the MR0013 trackball + its receiver/Bluetooth path and/or Options+ profile.
Since the MR0013 supports both its own receiver and Bluetooth, you can troubleshoot it very cleanly with a couple of A/B tests.

What’s most likely going on​

Most Logitech wireless receivers (and many Logitech “dongle” mice) operate in the 2.4 GHz band, which can be impacted by:
  • 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi traffic (especially during browsing/streaming/downloads)
  • USB 3.x electrical noise near the dongle (front ports, hubs, and USB 3 devices are common culprits)
  • Receiver placement (behind the PC, under a desk, near metal, etc.)
  • Options+/firmware issues affecting that specific device

MR0013 troubleshooting (do in this order)​

1) The clean A/B test: MR0013 on Bluetooth (no receiver)​

  1. Unplug the MR0013 receiver.
  2. Pair the MR0013 via Bluetooth.
  3. Use it for 15–30 minutes with your normal browsing/streaming.
Result meaning:
  • Bluetooth is stable → the MR0013 receiver path is the problem (interference/placement/USB noise).
  • Bluetooth still lags → it’s more likely the device itself, Options+, or Bluetooth driver/power settings.

2) If you prefer the receiver: fix placement (very high success rate)​

  • Plug the MR0013 receiver into a rear USB 2.0 port (avoid front ports/hubs if possible).
  • Best practice: use a short USB extension cable and place the receiver on the desk near the mouse/trackball.
This avoids both distance and USB 3.x noise.

3) Update firmware (and receiver) via Options+​

In Logi Options+, check for:
  • Firmware updates for the MR0013
  • Updates for the receiver type (Logi Bolt / Unifying / proprietary)
(With a brand-new device, firmware updates are still common.)

4) Quick “Options+ is causing it” test​

Options+ is useful, but occasionally a device profile/feature can cause weird behavior.
  • Temporarily exit Options+ completely (right-click its tray icon → Quit)
  • Test the MR0013 again (receiver or Bluetooth)
If it becomes stable only when Options+ is closed, we’ll adjust Options+ settings or reinstall it.

5) Power management (helps if Bluetooth is involved)​

If you test Bluetooth and it’s laggy, do this:
Device Manager → Bluetooth adapter → Properties → Power Management
  • Uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”
Also do the same for USB Root Hub / Generic USB Hub entries if you’re using a USB receiver.

About battery level​

85% should be fine, but for troubleshooting it’s worth doing one run with it at/near 100%, just to remove “low power behavior” as a variable.

One question to finish the diagnosis​

When you were having the problem with the MR0013, were you connected to Wi‑Fi on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? (If you’re on 2.4 GHz, moving the PC to 5 GHz often fixes Logitech receiver weirdness immediately.)
If you tell me whether MR0013 is stable on Bluetooth (step 1), I’ll tell you exactly which branch to pursue next (receiver interference vs Bluetooth stack vs Options+).
 
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The Logitech MR 00113 is designated as a 2.4 GHZ mouse. When on bluetooth, the mouse still slows down and is a little erratic. Fortunately, I have the other mouse that works good and can use it until I can get the router changed to 5 GHz.
 
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Right — and one key clarification:
  • Bluetooth also uses the 2.4 GHz band.
    So even when you switch the MR0013 to Bluetooth, it’s still operating in the same “crowded” spectrum as 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi. That’s why moving your Wi‑Fi to 5 GHz can help both the receiver mode and Bluetooth mode (it removes the PC’s heaviest 2.4 GHz transmitter from the equation).
That said, since the MR0013 is still slowing/erratic on Bluetooth, I’d treat this as (A) 2.4 GHz congestion/coexistence + (B) Realtek Wi‑Fi/BT combo driver behavior, and keep the TR0006 as your stable fallback for now (good call).

What to do next (in the easiest, highest-success order)​

1) Update the Bluetooth driver for the Realtek 8852BE (don’t skip this)​

Because your Wi‑Fi adapter is a Realtek 8852BE combo, the Wi‑Fi and Bluetooth sides “share” radio/coexistence logic.
  • Go to ASUS support for ASUS B550M‑Plus WiFi II
  • Install the latest:
    • Wireless (Wi‑Fi) driver
    • Bluetooth driver
  • Reboot after each if ASUS asks you to

2) Disable Bluetooth power saving (very common cause of “laggy” BT mice)​

Device Manager → Bluetooth (expand it)
For each of these (if present):
  • Realtek Bluetooth Adapter
  • Generic Bluetooth Adapter
Do: Properties → Power Management
  • Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
Also do the same for the USB Root Hub / Generic USB Hub entries (since USB power savings can indirectly affect receivers and BT stacks).

3) Temporarily remove Options+ from the equation (quick A/B test)​

Options+ can sometimes cause odd device behavior if a profile/feature glitches.
  • Quit Options+ completely (system tray icon → Quit)
  • Test MR0013 on Bluetooth for 10–15 minutes while browsing
If it behaves better with Options+ closed, we can fix it by resetting/reinstalling Options+ or disabling specific features (smooth scrolling, gestures, etc.).

4) Getting your router onto 5 GHz (your likely “real fix”)​

Your Calix GigaSpire BLAST almost certainly supports 5 GHz, but ISP units are often locked down.
Since you can’t access settings:
  • Call Home Telecom and ask specifically:
    “Please enable a separate 5 GHz SSID (or split 2.4 and 5 into separate network names), because my Bluetooth/2.4 GHz devices lag badly on 2.4.”
Once your PC connects to 5 GHz, the MR0013 (Bluetooth or receiver) often becomes stable immediately because Wi‑Fi is no longer blasting the 2.4 GHz band.

5) If it still misbehaves on 5 GHz + updated drivers…​

At that point, it’s fair to suspect the MR0013 itself (even if new). The best proof is:
  • Test MR0013 on another computer (or even a tablet/phone via Bluetooth) in the same room.
    • If it’s still erratic there → likely a defective unit → exchange/return.
    • If it’s perfect there → it’s your PC’s Wi‑Fi/BT driver/coexistence environment.

One quick question​

When you tested the MR0013 on Bluetooth and it slowed down, was your keyboard also on Bluetooth at the same time?
Two BT input devices simultaneously can make coexistence problems more obvious—especially while Wi‑Fi traffic is heavy on 2.4 GHz.
If you answer that, I’ll tell you the single best next test (either “MR0013 only on BT, keyboard off BT” vs “focus on Realtek BT driver/power settings” first).
 
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No, Windows 11 25H2 isn’t blocking anything. What you’re seeing is normal. Your Ryzen 5 5600G will still show Microsoft as the driver provider even after installing AMD’s chipset package, and Logitech keyboards and mice use built-in Windows HID drivers by design. Logitech’s download just adds their software, not a replacement driver. If the installers ran successfully, the right components are already in place. The issue you’re having is likely something else, not driver blocking.
 
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