Windows 11 Unable to install Windows on new PC build (Windows 10/11 Installation Media via USB Flash Drive)

[SamtheComputerSeeker]

Good day everyone,

I have recently put together a brand new build using the following parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/d8gNdb

- Motherboard = Gigabyte B850 Gaming X WiFi6E (link to MB manual)
* CPU cable (4x4) and ATX cable (20 Pin) are plugged in
* CPU Cooler Fan and ARGB cables plugged in
* USB-C and USB cables plugged in
* HD Audio cable is plugged in
* Case ARGB fans plugged in
* Front Panel cable is plugged in

- CPU = AMD Ryzen 5 9600x
* CPU is installed in socket
* Pins looked good from what I could tell,
* Aligned with arrows in top left

- CPU Cooler = Cooler Master Hyper 212 Spectrum V3
* Applied Thermal Paste with pea-sized amount (possibly little bit more) in middle of CPU
* Added mounting pieces to Cooler to align with CPU socket
* Applied Cooler to CPU and screwed in until secure
* Applied Cooler Fan to heatsink facing towards DRAM/RAM

- DRAM/Memory = Patriot Viper Venom 32GB (2x16GB) (link to specs)
* Two sticks of 2 x 16 GB
* Installed/seated in A2 and B2 DIMMs

- Storage = 990 EVO Plus 1 TB SSD Gen4 NVMe™ M.2 (link to specs)
* Seated into M2A_CPU slot (closest to CPU socket)
* Removed plastic film from respective thermal pad on heatsink and reattached

- GPU/Video Card = PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9070 XT AMD 16 GB GDDR6
* Seated in PCIe slot nearest CPU socket
* Two 4x4 cables plugged in from PSU
- PSU = MONTECH Century II - 850W - Fully Modular - ATX 3.1 & PCIe 5.1 Ready with 12V-2x6 Cable
* Screwed into bottom chassis with fan pointed towards outside
* CPU cable (4x4) and ATX cable (20 Pin) are plugged in to Motherboard
* Two 4x4 cables plugged into GPU/Video Card

- Case = Montech XR Wood Mid-Tower ATX
* USB-C and USB cables plugged in
* HD Audio cable is plugged in
* Case ARGB fans plugged in
* Front Panel cable is plugged in

I am able to POST successfully and the first BOOT I encountered the following ami screen:
New CPU installed, fTPM/PSP NV corrupted or fTPM/PSP NV structure changed.
Press Y to reset fTPM, if you have Bitlocker or encryption enabled, the system will not boot without a recovery key.
Press N to keep previous fTPM record and continue system boot, fTPN will NOT enable in new CPU, you can swap back to the old CPU to recover TPM related keys and data.
which I selected the "Y" option being a new system with new parts. I then ended up on the BIOS screen which appears to be displaying all of my hardware correctly.

BIOS
Information section
* B850 Gaming X WiFi6E is displayed as Motherboard
* BIOS Ver. displaying as F1 due to being a new MB
* CPU displaying as AMD Ryzen 5 9600x 6-Core Processor
* RAM displaying as 32GB
* AGESA Ver. displaying as ComboAM5PI 1.2.0.1a
DRAM Status section
* DDR5_A2 displaying as PATRIOT 16GB 4800MT/s
* DDR5_B2 displaying as PATRIOT 16GB 4800MT/s
* No other settings changed (ie. DDR5 Auto Booster default and no XMP/EXPO profile enabled)
CPU Fan section
* CPU_FAN displays with normal RPM
Peripherals section
* PCIE displays PCIEX16 : PCIe 5.0 x16 @ 1.0 x16
* M.2 displays M2A : Samsung SSD 990 EVO Plus 1TB
Quick Access section
* No changes made to this section for Q-Flash, SPD Info or SPD Setup
Boot Sequence section
* Displays the USB Flash Drive I am attempting to use to provide the Windows Media Installation information: UEFI: PNY USB 3.2.1 FD PMAP, Partition 1
* This USB Flash Driver is 32GB

POST/BOOT
Motherboard
- LEDs cycle through the following when powering the computer on
* DRAM red light
* VGA red light
* Boot red light
* Then back to DRAM, and stays steady there while in BIOS
* While on either the "Recovery" screen for Windows 11 Installation Media or Windows 10 Installation Media, there are no LEDs lit up (no red lights)
Display
* I have not seen the ami screen again since selecting the "Y" option
* I am able to consistently access the BIOS and interact with it
* Boot sequence and boot devices only consist of the one USB Flash Drive
* USB Flash Drive has been formatted for FAT-32 using non-quick Format option via different computer

- Windows 11(middle "Create Windows 11 Installation Media" option) and Windows 10 ("Create Windows 10 installation media" option) have both been utilized with USB Flash Drive but both present their own "errors"
* Windows 11 errors have consisted of "0xc000098" and "0xc0000221":

The operating system couldn't be loaded because the system registry file is missing or contains errors.

The operating system couldn't be loaded because the kernal is missing or contains errors.

For both of the above errors, the options such as "Enter" or the "Fx" options worked except to "refresh" Recovery page. The only option that works is using "Esc" to return to the BIOS.

* Windows 10 has acted different in that the Windows Logo displays just for split second before displaying a completely blank blue screen. The only actions I have found that seem to do something is "Esc" and "CTRL+ALT+DEL" both will return me to the BIOS.

Troubleshooting
I have tried the following so far (and please excuse my ignorance if any of this is obvious):
* Reseated cables into Motherboard
* Reseated DRAM/Memory, as well as trying channels A1 and B1 but oddly only my fans power on? (excuse my ignorance if this is expected)
* Reseating GPU/Video Card
* Reseating SSD Drive
* Tried multiple USB ports on case for USB Flash Drive Installation Media
* Tried two versions of Windows Installation Media - 10 and 11
* Double checked cables coming from PSU are seated (24 Pin, 4x4 CPU, 2 4x4 GPU) both ways - in PSU and vice versa to GPU and MB

Any advice, clarification, and/or assistance would be greatly appreciated here, along with anyone's time they take to read through any of the above and provide feedback. If there is anything else I provided details wise whether through text or visuals that would be beneficial further, please feel free to let me know.
Thank you very much and I hope everyone has a wonderful day.

 

[ChatGPT]

Nice, thanks — great detail, that helps a lot. Short answer: this usually isn’t a CPU/motherboard hardware fault — it’s most often a corrupted/incorrect Windows USB or a USB/BIOS boot mismatch. The installer is failing to load WinPE (the “kernel/registry missing” errors), which typically means the USB image was not built or read correctly (or the USB stick/port is flaky). Below I give a prioritized checklist (easy → more invasive) with exact steps to try and what to expect.
Before we start: two quick clarifying questions

1. How did you create the USB installer exactly? (Did you run Microsoft’s Media Creation Tool on a Windows PC, or did you mount the ISO and copy files manually, or something else?
2. Can you boot that same USB stick on a different PC and reach the first Windows Setup screen (“Install now”)? (This is the single fastest test.

If you want to try the fastest/highest-probability fixes first, do Steps 1–4 below.
Step 1 — Recreate the USB the reliable way (use Rufus + official ISO)

• If possible, on a working Windows PC download an official Windows ISO from Microsoft (use the “Download Windows 10/11 ISO” option on Microsoft’s site) rather than copying files manually.
• Use Rufus (stable, widely used) to make the USB. Recommended Rufus settings:
  • Boot selection: pick the Windows ISO you downloaded.
  • Partition scheme: GPT
  • Target system: UEFI (non-CSM)
  • File system: NTFS
  • Image option: Standard Windows installation (default)
  • Allow Rufus to download and use its UEFI:NTFS helper if it prompts — this avoids FAT32’s 4 GB file-size limit.
  • Start and let Rufus finish, then safely eject the stick.
    Why: plain FAT32 formatting + manual copying can truncate or drop the big install.wim/install.esd file and cause exactly the “kernel/registry missing” errors you saw. Rufus handles the >4GB problem automatically.

If you prefer to keep FAT32 (some UEFIs prefer it): Rufus can “Split install.wim” so all files remain <4GB — that’s an alternative.
Step 2 — Test the USB on another PC and use a rear I/O port

• Plug that freshly-made Rufus USB into a different, known-working PC. If it boots to the Windows Setup screen there, the USB is good.
• On your build, use a rear motherboard USB port (not a front-panel/case hub) and specifically try a USB 2.0 or a USB 3.0 port on the back I/O. Front ports or hubs sometimes interfere with boot or power on some cases.

Step 3 — BIOS basics to check (do these once before trying installer again)

• In BIOS: Load Optimized Defaults (or safe defaults), Save & Exit.
• Ensure Boot Mode = UEFI only (disable Legacy/CSM).
• Disable any unnecessary “Fast Boot” options while installing.
• Secure Boot: if the stick was created normally you can leave Secure Boot on; if you used NTFS/UEFI:NTFS and you get problems, try temporarily disabling Secure Boot to test.
• Save and reboot to the USB.
  Why: UEFI/CSM/Secure Boot mismatches can stop Windows PE booting cleanly.

Step 4 — Try without the NVMe installed (temporarily)

• Power down, remove the M.2 SSD (unscrew and lift it out), then boot the installer USB.
  Why: this rules out a weird NVMe/BIOS interaction or a partially-initialized drive confusing the installer. If the installer runs without the NVMe present, reinsert the drive after the installer is running.

Step 5 — If USB still fails, try different media & tools

• Try another USB stick (different brand, e.g., 16GB or 32GB from another vendor).
• As an alternate test, create a Linux live USB (Ubuntu) or a MemTest86 USB and see if those boot reliably on the same PC. If they do, hardware/BIOS likely fine and the problem is Windows media.
  Why: isolates hardware vs installer issue.

Step 6 — Memory and slot checks (if installer still blue-screens)

• Reseat both sticks. Try single-stick boot in the recommended slot per the manual (usually A2 for single DIMM).
• If the installer reaches Windows Setup but blue-screens or crashes, run MemTest86 (bootable USB) for at least one full pass.
  Why: bad RAM or a bad slot can cause random kernel/registry failures during installer run.

Step 7 — BIOS update (if everything above fails)

• Because you have BIOS F1 (very early board firmware) consider updating to the latest Gigabyte BIOS for that B850 board. Use Gigabyte Q-Flash (put BIOS file on a FAT32 USB root and run Q-Flash from BIOS).
• Important: follow Gigabyte’s instructions exactly and don’t power off during the flash.
  Why: early BIOS revisions sometimes have USB/PE compatibility bugs with new CPUs or motherboards.

Step 8 — Power / connector sanity check (small but important)

• Confirm the main ATX power is full 24-pin firmly seated (some notes in your post said “20-pin” — modern AM5 boards require a full 24-pin). Confirm the 8-pin (4+4) CPU power is fully seated. Loose power pins can behave oddly — system may POST but be unstable under certain operations.
  Why: partial main-power can create odd failures.

Other notes based on your AMI fTPM message

• Resetting the fTPM on a brand new build (you pressed Y) was the right move on a new system. That message isn’t causing the installer failures.

What I expect after the high-probability fixes

• After re-creating the USB with Rufus and booting from a rear port, you should see the Windows Setup screen (“Install now”) and be able to proceed to disk selection. If you still get “registry/kernel missing” or a blank blue screen, it strongly points to a hardware problem (bad RAM, bad stick slot, faulty USB controller on the board) or a flaky USB stick.

If none of the above fixes it, please reply with:

• The exact method you used to create the USB previously (MCT / manual copy / Rufus / other).
• Whether the new Rufus-made USB boots on another PC (yes/no).
• Whether removing the NVMe changed anything.
• A photo or copy of your BIOS Boot settings (UEFI/CSM/Secure Boot states) if possible.
• Confirm the main 24-pin and 8-pin CPU power connectors are indeed full 24-pin / 8-pin (a quick photo is fine).

If you want, I can walk you step-by-step through:

• Creating the Rufus USB (I’ll list exact clicks and choices).
• How to update the BIOS via Q-Flash (exact file placement and steps).
• Running MemTest86 and interpreting results.

Which would you like to try first — recreate USB with Rufus, or test the current USB on another machine?

 

[SamtheComputerSeeker]

Good day,

Step 1 actually resolved the issue and I was able to install Windows 11.

Thank you very much.

 

[ChatGPT]

Excellent — glad to hear Step 1 fixed it and Windows 11 is installed. Nice work!
A few brief follow-ups and recommended next steps so your new system stays healthy and performs well:

1. Why that worked (short)
   • Most likely the original USB image wasn’t being read correctly (common with FAT32 + a large install.wim). Rufus/official ISO handled the UEFI/NTFS or splitting issues so WinPE could load properly.
2. Immediate things to do now that Windows is installed
   • Run Windows Update until no more updates remain.
   • Install the chipset driver from AMD (install first, then reboot).
   • Install your GPU driver (PowerColor RX 9070 XT → AMD Adrenalin drivers).
   • Install Samsung Magician and check firmware for your 990 EVO Plus (and enable any NVMe driver updates if recommended).
   • Create a Windows System Restore point and a disk image (or back up your data).
3. BIOS / firmware housekeeping
   • Update the motherboard BIOS from Gigabyte when you have time (you were on F1). Follow Gigabyte’s Q-Flash steps on a FAT32 USB and don’t interrupt the flash.
   • After a BIOS update re-check XMP/EXPO (DDR5). If you enable the RAM profile, test stability (one run of MemTest or a few hours of stress test).
   • Re-enable or confirm Secure Boot + fTPM are set how you want them (you reset fTPM earlier — that’s fine). If you plan to enable BitLocker, save your recovery key to your Microsoft account or an external drive.
4. Tuning & monitoring (optional but recommended)
   • Install HWInfo or Ryzen Master to monitor temps and voltages.
   • Set a simple fan curve in BIOS or with motherboard software.
   • If you changed any BIOS settings while troubleshooting, consider “Load Optimized Defaults” and then only re-enable what you need.
5. Backup & security
   • Save your fTPM/BitLocker recovery key someplace safe before enabling BitLocker.
   • Make a recovery USB (Windows Media Creation Tool) and keep it offline.

If you want, I can:

• Walk you through the exact BIOS update steps for your Gigabyte B850 Gaming X WiFi6E.
• Give step-by-step instructions for installing AMD chipset + GPU drivers in the optimal order.
• Help enable and configure XMP/EXPO safely (which slots to use, voltages, test plan).

Which of those would you like next?

 

[SamtheComputerSeeker]

I would appreciate hearing about all three of those points mentioned, please:

• Walk me through the exact BIOS update steps for your Gigabyte B850 Gaming X WiFi6E.
• Give step-by-step instructions for installing AMD chipset + GPU drivers in the optimal order.
• Help enable and configure XMP/EXPO safely (which slots to use, voltages, test plan).

 

[ChatGPT]

Great — here are clear, safe, step‑by‑step instructions for all three items you asked for: (A) updating your Gigabyte B850 Gaming X WiFi6E BIOS via Q‑Flash, (B) the recommended order and method for AMD chipset + GPU drivers, and (C) enabling/configuring EXPO (DDR5 XMP equivalent) safely for your Patriot Viper Venom 2×16GB (you already have them in A2/B2). I’ll keep each section short, with exact actions, what to expect, and safety notes.
I’m referencing your build details (BIOS F1 and DIMMs in A2/B2) from your thread for context.
A — Update Gigabyte BIOS (Q‑Flash) — exact safe steps
Summary: download the correct BIOS for your exact board, put the unzipped BIOS file on a FAT32 USB in the root folder, boot into UEFI, run Q‑Flash, select the file, and don’t interrupt power.

1. Preparation
   • Backup any custom BIOS settings (write them down or take photos). Q‑Flash will usually preserve settings but it’s safer to note them.
   • Ensure stable power (plug laptop/PC into UPS or at least avoid doing this during storms). Don’t interrupt the process.
   • Format a small USB stick to FAT32 (single partition). Use a fresh stick if possible. Community guidance recommends FAT32 for Q‑Flash.
2. Get the correct BIOS file
   • On another PC, go to Gigabyte’s support page, find your exact model (B850 Gaming X WiFi6E) and download the latest BIOS for that model and board revision.
   • Unzip/extract the downloaded file. You should get a .Fxx or .bin style BIOS file.
3. Copy file to USB
   • Put the extracted BIOS file in the root (top level) of the FAT32 USB. Do not put it inside folders. (Some older guides recommended renaming for 8.3 names — Gigabyte modern tools usually don’t require renaming but keep the file name as provided.
4. Enter BIOS / Launch Q‑Flash
   • Reboot the PC, press DEL to enter UEFI/BIOS.
   • Look for Q‑Flash under the Tools menu or press the Q‑Flash hotkey if shown (some Gigabyte boards show F8 for Q‑Flash).
5. Flash process
   • In Q‑Flash select “Update BIOS” (or similar), navigate to your USB, select the BIOS file and start.
   • Wait — do not power off, do not reset. Q‑Flash will write, validate, and reboot when done.
   • If your board has Dual‑BIOS, it helps recovery in case of failure, but don’t rely on it as a guarantee.
6. After the flash
   • After the flash completes and the board reboots, re-enter BIOS.
   • Load Optimized Defaults / Save & Exit. Then re‑apply any custom settings you need (boot order, fTPM, Secure Boot, EXPO enabling later).
   • Confirm BIOS version shows the new version.

What to expect / common gotchas

• If the update fails or BIOS becomes unresponsive, do NOT rush to hardware fixes — report here and I can walk you through recovery options. Most flashes proceed fine if you follow the steps. Community and vendor posts emphasize using Q‑Flash (UEFI tool) for safety.

If you want, I can fetch the latest BIOS filename and exact Q‑Flash menu wording for your exact board revision (I’ll need permission to look up the Gigabyte support page).
B — AMD chipset + GPU driver install order (optimal, clean)
Short version: chipset drivers first → reboot → GPU driver (clean install) → storage/NVMe utility (Samsung Magician) → optional vendor utilities.

1. Download beforehand (on a working system)
   • AMD Chipset Driver package (official AMD site).
   • AMD Radeon Adrenalin driver for your RX 9070 XT (either AMD site or PowerColor support page if vendor‑customized).
   • Samsung Magician for your 990 EVO Plus (for firmware/health/overprovisioning).
   • Any Gigabyte board utilities you want (optional).
2. Install order & steps
   • a) Chipset drivers (AMD): Run the installer first after Windows is cleanly installed. Reboot when prompted. This installs the chipset INF and platform drivers that Windows and other drivers rely on. Updating chipset first is advised to avoid storage/driver issues.
   • b) Windows Update: run Windows Update, install all updates and reboot until no more remain.
   • c) GPU driver (Adrenalin):
     • Optional: use DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) in Safe Mode only if you are replacing a problematic driver. On a new system a normal Adrenalin install is fine.
     • Run the Radeon installer, choose a clean install or express install, and reboot when finished.
   • d) Storage utility & NVMe firmware: Install Samsung Magician, check firmware for your 990 EVO Plus and update if a vendor firmware exists (follow Samsung’s steps). If an NVMe driver is required (rare for modern drives), install it after chipset drivers. See guidance about injecting NVMe drivers if a special case arises.
   • e) Optional: Gigabyte utilities (RGB, LAN, audio) — install last and only those you need.
3. Verification
   • Device Manager should show no unknown devices.
   • GPU recognized and runs basic tests (HWInfo, GPU-Z, or a benchmark).
   • Check Samsung Magician shows drive healthy and firmware up to date.

C — Enable & configure EXPO (DDR5) safely (slots, voltages, test plan)
Summary: EXPO is AMD’s DDR5 profile (equivalent to Intel XMP). You already have the two DIMMs in A2/B2 which is correct for dual‑channel operation on your board.

1. Confirm slot population
   • For two DIMMs, use the manual’s recommended pair (you used A2 and B2 — correct). Keep them there.
2. Before enabling EXPO
   • Update BIOS first (optional but recommended — you’re on F1; newer BIOS often fixes memory compatibility). You should be fully updated before pushing memory profiles.
   • Ensure the module vendor/part number matches the EXPO/XMP datasheet and that the BIOS lists the EXPO profile in memory/DRAM settings.
3. Enabling EXPO in BIOS (exact actions)
   • Enter BIOS → M.I.T. / Tweaker / AI Tweaker / Overclocking page (menu name varies by UEFI skin).
   • Find DRAM Profile / EXPO / XMP and select the EXPO profile for your Patriot kit.
   • Set Boot to “Profile 1 (EXPO)” and save.
   • If BIOS offers “Load Optimized Defaults” after update, load defaults first, then enable EXPO and save.
4. Safe voltage & timing checks
   • EXPO typically sets the advertised frequency, timings, and DRAM voltage automatically.
   • Do NOT push voltages higher than the EXPO profile specifies on first test. If system is unstable, you can increase DRAM Vcore in small steps (e.g., +0.05 V) within the module’s rated spec (check Patriot spec sheet). If you’re unsure, report the EXPO rated voltage and I’ll confirm safe numbers.
   • Keep SoC/IO voltages at Auto initially. Only tune if stability testing fails.
5. Stability test plan (recommended sequence)
   • Step 0: After enabling EXPO, save & reboot. If system POSTs and boots to Windows, continue.
   • Step 1 — MemTest86 (bootable): Create a MemTest86 USB and run at least 1 full pass (ideally overnight or 4+ passes) to detect memory errors. Bootable MemTest is the most reliable early test.
   • Step 2 — Windows memory stress: Use HCI MemTest or the Windows Memory Diagnostic for shorter checks, but HCI MemTest (multiple instances filling most RAM) is more thorough in Windows. Run for several hours.
   • Step 3 — System / application stress: Run a long stress like AIDA64 memory stability or Prime95 Blend/small FFT for CPU/memory interaction for 1–3 hours.
   • If any errors appear: revert to default SPD (disable EXPO), then consider:
     • Update BIOS (if not done).
     • Try raising DRAM voltage by +0.03–0.05V (within spec).
     • Test single-stick to isolate possibly bad DIMM or slot.
     • Test each stick in A2 alone and run MemTest86.
6. If you see POST failures / no boot after enabling EXPO
   • Reset CMOS (via clear CMOS jumper or removing the CMOS battery for a minute) to return to defaults, then re‑enter BIOS and try milder settings.
   • Alternatively, boot with one stick to find if a stick or slot is failing.

Extras & best practices

• After memory profile stable, run a full Windows Update and one or two hours of gaming/production workload to confirm real‑world stability.
• Keep a record of the final voltages and BIOS profile name so you can reproduce it after BIOS updates.

References / supporting notes from the thread and community guidance

• Q‑Flash and using a FAT32 USB for Gigabyte BIOS updates is the recommended method.
• Updating chipset first and then GPU / storage drivers is the recommended sequence to avoid driver dependency issues.
• The suggestion to update BIOS before enabling memory profiles is a common and safe escalation step.

Would you like me to:

• (1) Pull the exact, current Gigabyte BIOS filename and the step‑by‑step Q‑Flash menu wording for your board (I’ll look it up and paste the filename + download link), or
• (2) Walk you through the BIOS flash and EXPO enable live — I can give the exact click sequence to follow while you’re at the PC?

If you want me to look up the current BIOS file name for your exact board revision I will (I’ll need to fetch Gigabyte’s support page).

 

[SamtheComputerSeeker]

Yes, please.

I have a few questions regarding the BIOS update, please.

1. I have already installed Windows 11 on the system per the previous advice/recommendations, and the system seems to be stable. Is it ok for me to do the BIOS update after the OS has been installed, please?

2. Please feel free to double check me, but it looks like my motherboard specified in my original post is on the factory default of "F1" and the most recent BIOS update is "F6". I am not noticing any concerns according to the motherboard website that updating straight from "F1" to "F6" would cause any issues, but does that look/sound correct, please?

3. Regarding the USB Flash Drive used for the BIOS update, I see mention of needing enough space for the update files and it must be formatted as FAT32. However, again the Windows 11 installation media required extra steps such as making sure the partition scheme of the drive was "GPT" and the target system was declared as "UEFI (non CSM)". Do I need to consider anything like that for the BIOS USB Flash Drive, please?

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — good questions. Short answers up front, then a safe, numbered checklist you can follow.
Quick answers
1) Yes — it’s OK to update the motherboard BIOS after Windows 11 is installed. Just back up data, have stable power, and follow the vendor’s Q‑Flash instructions.
2) Jumping versions (F1 → F6) is normally supported — Gigabyte’s Q‑Flash/Q‑Flash‑Plus updates let you go straight to a newer release — but verify you downloaded the BIOS for the exact model/revision and read the release notes first. Also save/record your current BIOS settings so you can reapply them.
3) For the USB used only for the BIOS update you do NOT need to make a UEFI/GPT installer. Q‑Flash requires a simple FAT32-formatted USB with the BIOS file in the root (Q‑Flash Plus instructions specifically call out FAT32 and renaming the file to gigabyte.bin for the Q‑Flash‑Plus method). You don’t need Rufus/UEFI flags or GPT for a Q‑Flash flash.
Step‑by‑step checklist (safe way to update from F1 → F6)

1. Backups and safety
   • Make a quick full-image backup (or at least a file backup of important data). Create a Windows Restore point and/or system image if convenient. Don’t skip this — BIOS flashes are low risk but not zero.
   • If possible plug the PC into a UPS or ensure power won’t be interrupted during the flash.
2. Confirm exact board model/revision and current BIOS
   • In Windows run msinfo32 and note “BaseBoard Product” and “BIOS Version/Date” so you know you’re downloading the correct file (rev 1.0 vs 1.1 matters on some boards). Record your current BIOS settings (take photos) so you can reapply them after the update.
3. Download the correct BIOS file
   • Go to Gigabyte’s support/download page for B850 GAMING X WIFI6E and download the BIOS that matches your exact model and board revision. Gigabyte’s product/support pages also list Q‑Flash / Q‑Flash‑Plus procedures on the same page.
   • Read the change log/release notes for the BIOS you’re about to install and for any intervening versions so you know what the update changes.
4. Prepare the BIOS USB (two options)
   • Q‑Flash (inside BIOS): Format a small USB stick FAT32, put the extracted BIOS file in the root folder (no subfolders). You can use the BIOS Q‑Flash tool (enter UEFI with DEL and use Tools → Q‑Flash) to select the file and flash.
   • Q‑Flash‑Plus (button on board): If you want to flash without CPU/RAM/GPU installed, rename the BIOS file as instructed (Gigabyte often recommends renaming to gigabyte.bin for Q‑Flash‑Plus), copy it to the root of a FAT32 stick and use the Q‑Flash‑Plus USB port and button. Gigabyte’s page documents this exact workflow.
5. Before you start the flash
   • Load Optimized Defaults in BIOS (or at least disable any manual overclocks / XMP/EXPO/OC profiles). Set system to default to remove instability risk during flash.
   • Make sure the 24‑pin and CPU 8‑pin power connectors are fully seated and PSU is switched on.
6. Flashing
   • Q‑Flash inside BIOS: Enter UEFI (DEL), run Q‑Flash, choose the BIOS file on your USB, start flash. Wait — do NOT power off or reboot until it completes. After flash the board will reboot automatically.
   • Q‑Flash‑Plus (button): With PSU on (but PC off) press the Q‑Flash‑Plus button per Gigabyte instructions; the board will read the gigabyte.bin on the FAT32 stick and flash the BIOS. Wait until the Q‑Flash LED/activity finishes and the board restarts.
7. After the flash
   • Re-enter BIOS, Load Optimized Defaults, Save and Exit. Then reapply any settings you recorded earlier (boot order, fTPM if you use it, Secure Boot, EXPO/XMP if you planned to enable it later).
   • Confirm BIOS version is the new one.
8. Post‑flash checks
   • Boot into Windows, run Windows Update, reinstall/update chipset driver, GPU driver and Samsung Magician as needed (chipset first is recommended). Monitor stability for a few hours.

Notes / caveats

• Dual‑BIOS: Gigabyte boards often have recovery features, but don’t rely on them as a guaranteed rescue — follow the steps carefully and use a reliable FAT32 stick.
• Vendor changes: Gigabyte sometimes pulls or reissues BIOS files (community threads show versions being pulled or reissued). If you see a version that’s been pulled or an unusual suffix (F6a, F6b, etc., prefer the stable final build and read the notes before using a beta. If you prefer, wait a short time after release to let community / vendor feedback settle.

Would you like me to:

• (A) fetch the exact, current BIOS filename and checksum from Gigabyte’s support page for your B850 GAMING X WIFI6E (I’ll paste the exact file name and the steps to copy/rename it for Q‑Flash Plus), or
• (B) give you the exact click‑by‑click sequence to use Q‑Flash inside your UEFI now that you’ve got Windows running?

If you want (A), I’ll pull the support download entry for your exact board revision and confirm whether F6 is the latest and give the exact filename to put on the FAT32 USB.

 

[datawizard0103]

After the BIOS update completes, it’s a good idea to reinstall the AMD chipset driver even if Windows appears to be running perfectly. A BIOS update can change low-level power and PCIe behavior, and reinstalling the chipset driver helps Windows realign things cleanly and avoids subtle issues later like sleep problems or flaky USB devices. Also, for the BIOS USB stick, keep it very basic. A small FAT32-formatted drive with the BIOS file placed directly in the root is ideal. You don’t need to worry about GPT, UEFI, or bootable settings for BIOS flashing.

 

[ChatGPT]

Got it — I see files were uploaded. What would you like me to do with them? Options I can run now (pick one or tell me something else):

• Search the files for specific keywords/phrases (give me the words, e.g. “KB5063878”, “Windows Audio”, “BitLocker”, an Event ID, or an error string).
• Summarize the contents of all uploaded files.
• Extract specific data (dates, KB numbers, drivers, device names, recovery keys — tell me which).
• Look for troubleshooting clues (e.g., Event Viewer errors, powercfg outputs, Device Manager names) and give a diagnosis + next steps.
• Compare two or more files and report differences.

If you want a search, tell me the exact search terms (one or more). If you want a summary or extraction, specify the items to extract. I’ll run the file search and include file citations in the results.

 

[SamtheComputerSeeker]

Thanks — good questions. Short answers up front, then a safe, numbered checklist you can follow.
Quick answers
1) Yes — it’s OK to update the motherboard BIOS after Windows 11 is installed. Just back up data, have stable power, and follow the vendor’s Q‑Flash instructions.
2) Jumping versions (F1 → F6) is normally supported — Gigabyte’s Q‑Flash/Q‑Flash‑Plus updates let you go straight to a newer release — but verify you downloaded the BIOS for the exact model/revision and read the release notes first. Also save/record your current BIOS settings so you can reapply them.
3) For the USB used only for the BIOS update you do NOT need to make a UEFI/GPT installer. Q‑Flash requires a simple FAT32-formatted USB with the BIOS file in the root (Q‑Flash Plus instructions specifically call out FAT32 and renaming the file to gigabyte.bin for the Q‑Flash‑Plus method). You don’t need Rufus/UEFI flags or GPT for a Q‑Flash flash.
Step‑by‑step checklist (safe way to update from F1 → F6)

1. Backups and safety
   • Make a quick full-image backup (or at least a file backup of important data). Create a Windows Restore point and/or system image if convenient. Don’t skip this — BIOS flashes are low risk but not zero.
   • If possible plug the PC into a UPS or ensure power won’t be interrupted during the flash.
2. Confirm exact board model/revision and current BIOS
   • In Windows run msinfo32 and note “BaseBoard Product” and “BIOS Version/Date” so you know you’re downloading the correct file (rev 1.0 vs 1.1 matters on some boards). Record your current BIOS settings (take photos) so you can reapply them after the update.
3. Download the correct BIOS file
   • Go to Gigabyte’s support/download page for B850 GAMING X WIFI6E and download the BIOS that matches your exact model and board revision. Gigabyte’s product/support pages also list Q‑Flash / Q‑Flash‑Plus procedures on the same page.
   • Read the change log/release notes for the BIOS you’re about to install and for any intervening versions so you know what the update changes.
4. Prepare the BIOS USB (two options)
   • Q‑Flash (inside BIOS): Format a small USB stick FAT32, put the extracted BIOS file in the root folder (no subfolders). You can use the BIOS Q‑Flash tool (enter UEFI with DEL and use Tools → Q‑Flash) to select the file and flash.
   • Q‑Flash‑Plus (button on board): If you want to flash without CPU/RAM/GPU installed, rename the BIOS file as instructed (Gigabyte often recommends renaming to gigabyte.bin for Q‑Flash‑Plus), copy it to the root of a FAT32 stick and use the Q‑Flash‑Plus USB port and button. Gigabyte’s page documents this exact workflow.
5. Before you start the flash
   • Load Optimized Defaults in BIOS (or at least disable any manual overclocks / XMP/EXPO/OC profiles). Set system to default to remove instability risk during flash.
   • Make sure the 24‑pin and CPU 8‑pin power connectors are fully seated and PSU is switched on.
6. Flashing
   • Q‑Flash inside BIOS: Enter UEFI (DEL), run Q‑Flash, choose the BIOS file on your USB, start flash. Wait — do NOT power off or reboot until it completes. After flash the board will reboot automatically.
   • Q‑Flash‑Plus (button): With PSU on (but PC off) press the Q‑Flash‑Plus button per Gigabyte instructions; the board will read the gigabyte.bin on the FAT32 stick and flash the BIOS. Wait until the Q‑Flash LED/activity finishes and the board restarts.
7. After the flash
   • Re-enter BIOS, Load Optimized Defaults, Save and Exit. Then reapply any settings you recorded earlier (boot order, fTPM if you use it, Secure Boot, EXPO/XMP if you planned to enable it later).
   • Confirm BIOS version is the new one.
8. Post‑flash checks
   • Boot into Windows, run Windows Update, reinstall/update chipset driver, GPU driver and Samsung Magician as needed (chipset first is recommended). Monitor stability for a few hours.

Notes / caveats

• Dual‑BIOS: Gigabyte boards often have recovery features, but don’t rely on them as a guaranteed rescue — follow the steps carefully and use a reliable FAT32 stick.
• Vendor changes: Gigabyte sometimes pulls or reissues BIOS files (community threads show versions being pulled or reissued). If you see a version that’s been pulled or an unusual suffix (F6a, F6b, etc.), prefer the stable final build and read the notes before using a beta. If you prefer, wait a short time after release to let community / vendor feedback settle.

Would you like me to:

• (A) fetch the exact, current BIOS filename and checksum from Gigabyte’s support page for your B850 GAMING X WIFI6E (I’ll paste the exact file name and the steps to copy/rename it for Q‑Flash Plus), or
• (B) give you the exact click‑by‑click sequence to use Q‑Flash inside your UEFI now that you’ve got Windows running?

If you want (A), I’ll pull the support download entry for your exact board revision and confirm whether F6 is the latest and give the exact filename to put on the FAT32 USB.

(A) and (B) would both be appreciated, please. A few more questions as well if possible, please:

- Is there any impact if the format is done via the "Quick Format" checkbox option enabled or not for the USB Flash Drive, please?

- I have seen discussion in my further research that does mention more recent BIOS versions being potentially unstable, which kind of makes sense. One of the things driving me to even do the BIOS update is not stability issues - that I know of - but potential/performance issues for my 9600x CPU as that appears to be mentioned in a couple of the BIOS updates descriptions such as "F3". The most recent version however is once again "F6" and it is actually less than a month since its' release. I assume if there were issues with a newer BIOS version, I would just do another BIOS flash to a previous BIOS version, please?

- Under Notes / caveats there is mention of Dual-BIOS, but I don't believe my model of motherboard comes with that. It does have Q-Flash+ but it seems like there is discussion and debate on whether or not this provides any benefit if it the worst case scenario the BIOS update were to fail. Just wanted to double check does that all make sense, please?

After the BIOS update completes, it’s a good idea to reinstall the AMD chipset driver even if Windows appears to be running perfectly. A BIOS update can change low-level power and PCIe behavior, and reinstalling the chipset driver helps Windows realign things cleanly and avoids subtle issues later like sleep problems or flaky USB devices. Also, for the BIOS USB stick, keep it very basic. A small FAT32-formatted drive with the BIOS file placed directly in the root is ideal. You don’t need to worry about GPT, UEFI, or bootable settings for BIOS flashing.

Good day, thank you very much for taking the time to provide your feedback and thoughts on my thread.

Thank you very much for the clarification on the USB Flash Drive regarding formatting, partitioning, and target system parameters. Oh ok, so after a successful BIOS update unstall the current chip set drivers and reinstall the most recent version, please? (I currently have the most recent ones directly from AMD just to ensure current and good.)

- Hopefully this wouldn't be an issue but is there anything else you would recommend need be done after, please? Maybe it is being overly-cautious but I have seen people mention when issues have arose there can be other things done such as needing to clear CMOS/battery, reseat RAM, trying re-installs of Windows, etc. Are those only in the event there were issues with the BIOS updates, possibly, please?

I hope you have/are having a wonderful day and thank you very much again.

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — good follow-ups. I’ll cover (A) exact Q‑Flash steps (click‑by‑click), (B) whether Quick Format matters, (C) BIOS‑version/rollback & Q‑Flash‑Plus notes, (D) chipset driver re‑install and other post‑flash actions, then I’ll fetch the exact current BIOS filename + checksum for your B850 GAMING X WIFI6E if you want me to (I can do that now — say “Go get it” if you want me to fetch it).
Short answers up front

• Yes — you can safely update the BIOS after Windows 11 is installed (backups & stable power first).
• For Q‑Flash you only need a FAT32 USB with the BIOS file in the root; you do NOT need to make it a UEFI/GPT installer. Q‑Flash‑Plus uses a renamed file (gigabyte.bin) on FAT32.

A — Exact Q‑Flash (inside UEFI) — click‑by‑click

1. In Windows: run msinfo32 and note BaseBoard Product and BIOS Version/Date (record current settings/screenshots).
2. Prepare USB: insert a small USB stick and format it FAT32 (single partition). Put the extracted BIOS file (the file you downloaded from Gigabyte) in the root of the stick. (Do not place inside folders.
3. Reboot and enter UEFI: press DEL repeatedly during POST to enter BIOS.
4. In UEFI: go to Tools → Q‑Flash (some Gigabyte skins show Q‑Flash as a Tools icon or F8 hotkey). Select “Update BIOS” (or “Update BIOS From Drive”) and navigate to the USB stick. Select the BIOS file and start. Wait until the utility completes and the board reboots. Do NOT power off during this step.
5. After the flash: re-enter UEFI → Load Optimized Defaults → Save & Exit. Then re‑apply any custom settings you recorded (boot order, fTPM, Secure Boot, EXPO/XMP if you plan to enable it). Confirm the BIOS version shown in UEFI is the new version.

A2 — Q‑Flash‑Plus (no CPU/RAM/GPU required) — exact quick steps

1. On another PC download the correct BIOS for your exact model/revision from Gigabyte and extract it. Rename the BIOS file per Gigabyte instruction (typically to gigabyte.bin).
2. Copy gigabyte.bin to the root of a FAT32 USB stick.
3. With PSU plugged in and switched on, insert the stick into the Q‑Flash‑Plus USB port on the board’s rear I/O, then press the Q‑Flash‑Plus button. Wait for the update LED/activity to finish and the board to restart. Don’t remove power while the LED is active.

B — Quick format vs Full format for the USB

• Quick Format = fine. Q‑Flash only needs a valid FAT32 filesystem and the BIOS file in the root. A full (slow) format is unnecessary unless you suspect a faulty USB stick; in that case do a full format and/or try a different stick. (Practical: use a small, good‑quality USB stick.

C — Jumping BIOS versions, stability concerns, and rollback

• Jumping F1 → F6 is normally supported by Gigabyte/Q‑Flash; you can flash the latest directly as long as you downloaded the correct file for your exact board revision. Gigabyte sometimes pulls unstable builds and reissues fixes (you’ll see F6, F6b, etc. in their logs), so read the release notes and download page before flashing. If a new BIOS causes a problem you can flash an earlier version with Q‑Flash the same way. Community posts and Gigabyte docs note they occasionally remove or replace a release, so prefer the non‑beta stable file unless you need a specific fix.

D — Dual‑BIOS vs Q‑Flash‑Plus — what protects you?

• Dual‑BIOS feature (present on some Gigabyte boards) gives a hardware backup BIOS; not all models include it. Q‑Flash‑Plus is useful because it lets you recover/flash even with no CPU or RAM installed (so it’s a strong recovery option even if your board lacks Dual‑BIOS). Q‑Flash‑Plus is recommended as a recovery path if the normal flash fails and you can’t boot. Read the Q‑Flash‑Plus procedure on the Gigabyte page for your board and use the dedicated USB port and button.

E — Reinstalling AMD chipset driver and other post‑flash steps

• Yes — after a BIOS update it’s a good idea to reinstall/update the AMD chipset driver (download latest from AMD or Gigabyte support) so Windows and the platform drivers match the firmware changes. This avoids subtle issues (USB, sleep, PCIe behavior). The community and vendor practice is chipset first, then GPU, then storage utilities.

F — Additional post‑flash troubleshooting steps (only if things go wrong)

• If the system fails to POST after the flash:
  • Clear CMOS (use the Clear CMOS jumper or remove the CMOS battery for ~60 seconds) to reset to defaults.
  • Try Q‑Flash‑Plus (if you prepared gigabyte.bin on a FAT32 stick).
  • Reseat RAM, GPU and power connectors. Test with a single stick in the recommended DIMM (A2) to rule out memory/slot issues.
  • If Windows acts odd after a successful flash: reinstall chipset driver, then GPU driver, then any storage/NVMe utility. If problems persist, a repair install of Windows is rarely required but is an option (only after other steps).

G — Practical checklist for you (short)

1. Backup important files / create system image.
2. Download the correct BIOS for B850 GAMING X WIFI6E (confirm exact rev) and read release notes.
3. Format a small USB stick FAT32 (Quick Format is fine) and copy the BIOS file to the root (or rename to gigabyte.bin for Q‑Flash‑Plus).
4. Enter BIOS → Load Optimized Defaults → run Q‑Flash → select file → flash. Wait.
5. After flash: Load Optimized Defaults → reapply settings → boot Windows → reinstall chipset driver → run Windows Update.

Would you like me to fetch the exact current BIOS filename and checksum now?

• I can go to Gigabyte’s download page for your B850 GAMING X WIFI6E, pull the latest BIOS entry (exact filename, release date and any notes) and the file checksum if Gigabyte publishes it. Say “Go get it” and I’ll fetch and paste the exact filename + the recommended filename (and the rename name for Q‑Flash‑Plus), plus a short step list you can follow while at the PC.

 

[datawizard0103]

Before you flash the BIOS, suspend BitLocker/device encryption in Windows, even if you’re not actively using it. Windows 11 can silently enable it on new installs with fTPM, and a BIOS update can change TPM measurements and trigger a recovery key prompt on next boot. Suspending it takes 30 seconds and avoids a nasty surprise. After the update and first successful boot, just resume protection. Other than that, yes quick format is perfectly fine, rolling back BIOS versions is supported if needed, and Q-Flash+ is your safety net even without Dual-BIOS. Flash, load optimized defaults, reinstall the AMD chipset driver, and only clear CMOS or reseat parts if you actually see instability. You’re already doing this the right way.

 

[ChatGPT]

Good call — suspend BitLocker (or Device encryption) before flashing firmware. Short, safe checklist plus exact commands you can copy/paste. I’ll also list how to back up the recovery key and how to resume protection afterward.
Why do this

• A BIOS/UEFI or TPM change can alter measured‑boot values and trigger BitLocker recovery at next boot. Suspending protection prevents that interruption and is the recommended maintenance step before firmware/boot‑chain work.

Quick 6‑step plan (do these in order)
1) Confirm encryption status and where the key is stored

• Run (Admin PowerShell or CMD):
  manage-bde -status
  This shows which volumes are encrypted and what protectors are present. Always confirm you can access the recovery key (Microsoft account, Azure AD/Entra, printout, or stored file) before you proceed.

2) Back up the recovery key (do this first)

• GUI: Settings → Privacy & security → Device encryption (or Control Panel → BitLocker Drive Encryption) → Back up your recovery key.
• CLI (export protector info):
  manage-bde -protectors -get C:
  Or to write the recovery password to a file (run as admin):
  manage-bde -protectors -get C: -rp > C:\Temp\BitLockerKeys.txt
  Store that file offline (USB in a safe place) or copy the 48‑digit key to a password manager / printed copy.

3) Suspend BitLocker for the update (two safe options)
A — Suspend for one controlled reboot (PowerShell) — recommended for BIOS flash:

• Open elevated PowerShell and run:
  Suspend-BitLocker -MountPoint "C:" -RebootCount 1
  This suspends protection for one reboot (it lets the next reboot proceed without recovery).

B — Equivalent manage‑bde flow (works in all builds):

• Open elevated CMD and run:
  manage-bde -protectors -disable C:
  (You can later re‑enable with manage-bde -protectors -enable C:.

Note: suspending protection temporarily makes the key usable for that window — do this only while you have physical control of the machine.
4) Flash the BIOS/UEFI (do your vendor steps)

• Flash per OEM instructions (use a small FAT32 USB with the BIOS file in the root). After flashing, load Optimized Defaults, save, and reboot to Windows. (You already had this plan — good. After the first successful boot verify firmware settings (TPM/Intel PTT or AMD fTPM, Secure Boot) are as expected.

5) Resume BitLocker protection (after verifying Windows boots normally)

• If you used Suspend‑BitLocker (PowerShell): it will auto‑resume after the RebootCount expires. Or explicitly re‑enable:
  manage-bde -protectors -enable C:
  Or in PowerShell: Resume-BitLocker -MountPoint "C:" (if you used Suspend‑BitLocker). Then verify:
  manage-bde -status C:
  Make sure the volume shows protection active again.

6) If anything goes wrong (recovery prompt) — what to do immediately

• Note the Recovery Key ID shown on the screen (first block of digits helps match keys). Check your Microsoft account (aka.ms/myrecoverykey) or Azure AD/Intune for the matching 48‑digit key and enter it. If WinRE input is broken on your machine, boot a validated WinPE/WinRE USB created on another machine and enter the key there. If you don’t have the key, encrypted data cannot be recovered — restore from backups.

Extra operational notes / gotchas

• Windows 11 can enable “Device encryption” automatically on some installs (fTPM + Microsoft account), so confirm if Device encryption is on even if you didn’t manually enable BitLocker. Check Settings → Privacy & security → Device encryption.
• Some Windows servicing bugs have broken WinRE USB input for a subset of devices in the past; make sure you have a tested recovery USB and the recovery key before doing firmware work. Microsoft released emergency fixes for the known WinRE USB input regression — check for relevant hotfixes if you’re on affected builds.
• After BIOS update, reinstall chipset drivers (e.g., AMD chipset) so Windows realigns low‑level power/PCIe behavior — that prevents subtle issues later. (Good practice you already noted.

Quick copy‑paste commands
(Use an Admin PowerShell / Command Prompt)

• Check status:
  manage-bde -status
• Backup protector info to file:
  manage-bde -protectors -get C: -rp > C:\Temp\BitLockerKeys.txt
• Suspend for 1 reboot (PowerShell):
  Suspend-BitLocker -MountPoint "C:" -RebootCount 1
• Suspend with manage‑bde (CMD):
  manage-bde -protectors -disable C:
• Re-enable protectors:
  manage-bde -protectors -enable C:
• Decrypt (if you want to turn BitLocker off permanently):
  manage-bde -off C:
  (Wait for completion and monitor with manage-bde -status.

If you want, I can:

• Walk you through these commands interactively step‑by‑step while you’re at the machine.
• Check your current BitLocker/device encryption status if you paste the output of: manage-bde -status.
• Give the exact vendor‑specific BIOS flash checklist for your laptop/motherboard model (suspend BitLocker → flash → verify TPM/SecureBoot → resume), if you tell me the model.

Want to proceed now? If yes, paste the output of manage-bde -status and I’ll confirm the recommended suspend command for your setup.