Win11Home no longer recognizing multi-partition SSD

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Zevik83

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After a couple of months, wanted to update my doc backups on my Seagate 2TB multi-partitioned SSD. To my horror neither it nor identical twin is recognized - not in Disk Manager or File Explorer. Done the first few things suggested by a search - e.g. Device Manager, turned off USB Root Hub power manager turn off to save power,

This is both on my Lenovo Ideapad3 i5 and my Dell Inspiron i7 running up-to-date Win11 Home. When I plug either into a USB slot, their power lights briefly flash on then off. Tried different USB ports amnd cables - no luck.

The Seagates are less than 6 months old. Both passed Seatools tests when new. Surely both could not have died sitting idly in my desk?

Is this a new problem introduced in a Win11 Update ? I am, no guru so forget about playing with the Registry. Any Help out there ?
 
Solution
If neither Seagate (nor its twin) shows up in Disk Management or File Explorer on two different PCs, and the LED flashes briefly then turns off, that’s usually not a Windows “drive letter/partition” issue. It’s almost always one of these:
1) No/insufficient power to the drive (USB port/hub/cable/adapter issue)
2) USB enumeration failure (“Unknown USB Device / Device Descriptor Request Failed”)
3) Hardware fault in the drive/enclosure electronics (USB‑SATA bridge board), which can present exactly as “LED blinks then off”.
Because you tested on two different computers, a Windows update is less likely than a power/cable/enclosure problem—but we can still check a few...
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If neither Seagate (nor its twin) shows up in Disk Management or File Explorer on two different PCs, and the LED flashes briefly then turns off, that’s usually not a Windows “drive letter/partition” issue. It’s almost always one of these:
1) No/insufficient power to the drive (USB port/hub/cable/adapter issue)
2) USB enumeration failure (“Unknown USB Device / Device Descriptor Request Failed”)
3) Hardware fault in the drive/enclosure electronics (USB‑SATA bridge board), which can present exactly as “LED blinks then off”.
Because you tested on two different computers, a Windows update is less likely than a power/cable/enclosure problem—but we can still check a few Windows-side resets that do fix USB enumeration glitches.

Step 1 (fastest): confirm whether Windows sees anything when you plug it in​

On either PC:
  1. Open Device Manager
  2. Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers
  3. Plug in the Seagate and watch for anything that appears/disappears, especially:
    • Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)
    • A new USB Mass Storage Device
  4. Also expand Disk drives and see if anything new appears (even briefly).
Tell me exactly what appears (even for a second). That one detail determines whether this is “Windows driver/enumeration” vs “no power/hardware.”

Step 2: do a full USB “power discharge” reset (surprisingly effective)​

This can clear a “stuck” USB controller state (especially on laptops):

Lenovo / Dell laptop USB reset​

  1. Shut down the laptop (not Restart).
  2. Unplug the charger.
  3. Disconnect all USB devices.
  4. Hold the power button for 30 seconds.
  5. Plug charger back in and boot.
  6. Then plug in only the Seagate (directly, no hub).
Do this on both laptops once.

Step 3: eliminate cable/adapter and power issues (most common with “flash then off”)​

Even if you tried “different cables,” the important part is a known-good USB data cable of the correct type:
  • If your Ultra Touch uses USB Micro‑B 3.0 (wide micro connector), many “micro USB” cables won’t fit or won’t carry enough power/data.
  • If it’s USB‑C, some USB‑C cables are charge-only or flaky for data.
Try:
  1. Original Seagate cable (if you still have it).
  2. A different known-good data cable from a reputable brand.
  3. Plug into a USB‑A port directly (avoid USB‑C adapters/docks/hubs).
  4. If possible: try a powered USB hub (one with its own AC adapter). This is a very good test for “power draw / overcurrent.”

Step 4: Windows settings that can break USB detection (quick to try)​

On each PC:
1) Disable USB selective suspend
  • Control Panel → Power Options → Change plan settings → Change advanced power settings → USB settings → USB selective suspend → Disabled
2) Disable Fast Startup
  • Control Panel → Power Options → Choose what the power buttons do → Change settings that are currently unavailable → uncheck Turn on fast startup
Then shut down fully and test again.

Step 5: if still dead on both PCs​

If nothing shows in Device Manager (no unknown device, no disk, no connect sound), and LED still just flashes then off, that strongly points to hardware-level failure (bridge board or internal power fault).
Two drives failing “while sitting” is rare, but it does happen if:
  • they were stored/transported together and got physical shock,
  • a bad cable or USB overcurrent event damaged both,
  • or there’s a batch/bridge-board issue.

At that point, best next move:​

  • RMA/warranty with Seagate (they’re < 6 months old).
  • If data is critical: don’t keep plugging them in repeatedly; that can worsen electronics issues. Consider a data recovery shop.

Two questions for you (answer these and I’ll narrow it down immediately)​

1) What is the exact Seagate model printed on the drive label? (e.g., STHH…, STKS…, etc.)
2) When you plug it in, does Device Manager show:
  • Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed) (yes/no), or
  • absolutely nothing changes (yes/no)?
If you reply with those two answers, I’ll tell you the most likely cause and the single best next step (powered hub test vs driver reset vs RMA).
 
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Solution
Great - now I have messed up the port on the first one. Broken. I'll see if Seagate will help.

Did your step 2. On Seagate #2 - STMS2000400 - the power light stays on but nothing else shows in Disk Manager or Device Manager. I think that the cables may be iffy after alot of use. Have ordered new but delivery will take close to a month. If you can tell anything from above eg Wion11 problem, say so. OPtherwise stanmd by for a month til I get the new cables.
 
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Given what you’ve just observed with Seagate #2 (STMS2000400):
  • LED stays on
  • Nothing new appears in Disk Management
  • Nothing changes in Device Manager when you plug/unplug
…that pattern is much more consistent with a “no data connection / no USB enumeration” problem than a Windows 11 update problem.
If Windows 11 were the cause, you’d almost always still see something in Device Manager (even as Unknown USB Device), and you’d usually see it on one PC but not the other. You’re seeing no enumeration at all.

What that usually means​

One of these is happening:
1) Cable is power-only or has failed data lines
  • Very common with USB‑C cables (some charge-only).
  • Also common with worn cables: power still works, data doesn’t.
2) Bad connector/contact at the drive’s port (or internal USB-bridge board)
  • The LED can light even if the data pins aren’t making contact.
3) Port is supplying power but USB handshake never starts (less common, but can happen with a failing bridge board).
So: it’s unlikely to be a new Win11 update issue based on your “no Device Manager change” observation.

Things you can do now (before the new cables arrive)​

1) Confirm whether the cable can pass data (quick test)​

Use the same cable on something you know supports data, e.g. your phone:
  • Plug phone into PC with that cable.
  • If the phone charges but does not appear in File Explorer / Device Manager as a portable device, that cable is very likely charge-only or data-bad.

2) Try any known-good “data” cable you already have (even temporarily)​

If your Seagate uses USB‑C, try any known-good USB‑C data cable (phone/laptop cable). Many are data-capable, some are not.
If your Seagate uses Micro‑B USB 3.0 (the wider micro connector), you must use the proper USB 3.0 Micro‑B cable—other “micro USB” cables won’t work.

3) Try a powered USB hub (good diagnostic)​

If you can borrow a powered USB hub (one with its own power adapter), try the drive through that hub. It’s a good test for borderline power/current situations.

4) Listen for the Windows connect sound and watch Device Manager “live”​

Open Device Manager → keep it open → plug the drive in.
  • If nothing at all changes, Windows is not seeing a USB device handshake.

About Seagate #1 with the broken port​

If the physical connector is broken, Seagate may consider it physical damage (sometimes not covered), but it’s still worth contacting them—especially since the drive is < 6 months old. Do not keep trying to insert cables into a damaged port, because it can short pins and make recovery harder.

Two quick questions (so I can be precise)​

1) What connector is on STMS2000400: USB‑C or Micro‑B USB 3.0?
2) When you plug it in, do you hear the Windows device connect sound (yes/no)?
If you answer those, I can tell you whether waiting for cables is the right plan or whether it’s more likely the drive/enclosure electronics (RMA time).
 
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Never heard any "Connect" sound at any time throughout this process. Plugging phone to PC idea does not help - I have Link to Windows active - the phone shows up in File Explorer even if I disconnect.

The cables that came with it had a USB 2 on one end (the widest connector) and a Micro B connector on the other - but the Seagate connection is a 3 - not a Micro. So I had to use a "Micro to 3" small connector piece. Very weird and unlike the Seagate instructions which has a picture showing USB 3 to Micro - quite unlike connectors that came with it, or the Seagate having a Micro connection. (sealed packages - and Seagate registered them and Serial Numbers as authentic)

I do not think there is anything to do now until new cables arrive.
 
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What you’ve described (LED on, no Windows “connect” sound, and absolutely no change in Device Manager/Disk Management) points much more to a cable/connector (data path) problem than to a Windows 11 update problem. When Windows is the issue, you almost always still see something appear (even as “Unknown USB device”), especially across two PCs. infusion you noticed is the key
There are two different “micro” USB connectors people mix up:
  • Micro‑USB (USB 2.0) = small, narrow, common on older devices
  • Micro‑B USB 3.0 = wider (looks like “micro + an extra section”)
That “USB 3 to Micro” picture you saw in Seagate instructions is typically USB‑A (blue USB 3.x) ↔ Micro‑B USB 3.0.
From what you wrote:
  • The cable you got was USB‑A (looks like USB 2.0 type A) on the PC end (that’s normal — USB‑A can still be USB 3.x depending on the plug color/cable)
  • But you then had to use a “Micro to 3” adapter piece because the plug didn’t match the drive.
That adapter is very likely the culprit: adapters frequently pass power but not the SuperSpeed/data wiring correctly, so the drive lights up but Windows never enumerates it (no sound, no Device Manager change). That matches your symptoms exactly.

What to do (testing the adapter “micro to 3” piece​

Especially after one port has already been damaged, adapters add mechanical stress and can misalign pins.

2) Get the correct one-piece cable (no adapter)​

For your model (STMS2000400), you want a cable explicitly described as:
  • “USB 3.0 Type‑A to Micro‑B 3.0 (SuperSpeed) cable”
    (keywords: Micro‑B 3.0, SuperSpeed, USB 3.0)
If your laptops have USB‑C ports and you can find it sooner, an alternative is:
  • USB‑C to Micro‑B 3.0 (SuperSpeed) cable (again: no adapter).
Important: Don’t buy “Micro‑USB” generically—many sellers mean USB2 Micro‑USB, which is wrong.

3) When the new cable arrives, do this 30‑second test​

  1. Open Device Manager (leave it open).
  2. Plug in the Seagate.
  3. You should see something change immediately (Disk drives, USB Mass Storage, or even Unknown USB Device).
If you still get no change at all, then it’s much more likely the drive’s USB bridge electronics (or the drive’s port/pins) have failed, and then warranty/RMA is the right path.

About your phone test​

You’re right that test confusing because it can show the phone even when not physically connected. A better quick “is this cable data-capable?” check is:
  • Plug any known USB device that must enumerate (a USB flash drive, USB mouse, etc.) into the same port you’re using for the Seagate.
  • Or (if testing a USB‑C cable), plug a phone in and watch Device Manager → Portable Devices appear/disappear when you physically connect/disconnect.

Is it likely a Win11 update did this?​

Based on “LED on but no enumeration at all on multiple PCs,” unlikely. Your symptoms fit “power present, data path missing” (bad/incorrect cable/adapter or damaged port) much better than a Windows regression.
If you want, paste a clear photo of:
1) the drive’s port, and
2) the cable ends + the adapter piece,
and I’ll tell you exactly which connector type it is and what cable wording to search for (so you don’t wait a month for the wrong thing again).
 
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The photos explain the whole situation.

What your photos show​

1) Your Seagate drive’s port is USB‑C. (That oval “pill” shaped connector on the drive.)
2) The white cable you’ve been using is USB‑A → Micro‑USB (USB 2.0 Micro‑B) (the small trapezoid plug).
3) The small black piece is a Micro‑USB → USB‑C adapter.
That setup is not the correct/normal cable for a USB‑C Seagate drive, and it can easily cause exactly what you’re seeing:
  • LED power but no “connect” sound / no Device Manager change (power present, but no proper USB negotiation/data path), and
  • physical port damage (the adapter adds leverage/wiggle; that’s how ports get broken).
So: this is not a Windows 11 update problem. It’s almost certainly the wrong cable/adapter combination (and possibly now a damaged port on drive #1).

What you should use instead (no adapter)​

Use one single cable, end-to-end:
  • USB‑A (PC) → USB‑C (drive), rated USB 3.x / 5 Gbps (often labelled “USB 3.0/3.1 Gen1”).
    Search terms: USB-A to USB-C data cable 5Gbps (avoid “charging cable” wording).
If your laptop has USB‑C ports, you can also use:
  • USB‑C → USB‑C (again, make sure it’s a data cable, not charge-only).

What to do now (before the new cables arrive)​

  • Stop using the micro‑USB + adapter on drive #2. It’s not helping and it risks breaking the second port like the first.
  • If you can borrow any known-good USB‑A to USB‑C phone/laptop data cable from someone locally, try it—this is the fastest way to confirm the drive is still OK.

When the correct cable arrives: the 10‑second confirmation test​

  1. Open Device Manager and leave it open.
  2. Plug the Seagate in with the new proper USB‑A→USB‑C cable.
  3. You should immediately see something appear (Disk drives, USB Mass Storage, etc.) and usually you’ll hear the connect sound.
  • If it shows up: your data is likely fine, and the old adapter/cable was the issue.
  • If still absolutely nothing changes in Device Manager: then the drive’s USB‑C port or internal USB bridge board is likely damaged → warranty/RMA time.
If you want, reply with one more close-up photo of the broken port on Seagate #1 and the USB‑C port on Seagate #2, and I’ll tell you whether the #2 port looks physically intact (bent center tongue/pins, looseness, etc.).
 
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Can you now just confirm that the cable(s) supplied with the Seagates are in fact the wrong cable for connecting to the Seagate i.e. a Micro instead of USB-C
 
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Yes — based on your photos, the white cable that came with your drive is USB‑A to Micro‑USB (Micro‑B), while the Seagate drive itself has a USB‑C port. Those two do not match for a direct connection.
So that supplied cable is not the correct cable to connect directly to that Seagate (without an adapter). The correct direct cable for a Seagate with a USB‑C port would be USB‑A ↔ USB‑C (or USB‑C ↔ USB‑C), and it should be a data-capable cable.
What this means in practice:
  • Either the cable in the box was incorrect for that unit, or the unit/cable got mixed at packaging/retail, or the drive model you received uses USB‑C while the included cable was intended for a Micro‑USB Seagate model.
  • Your “micro‑to‑USB‑C” adapter is a plausible reason for “power light but no device detected,” and it also increases the risk of damaging the port.
If you want, tell me the exact model name printed on the drive label (you mentioned STMS2000400) and whether the retail box says anything like “USB‑C” on it, and I’ll suggest the exact cable spec to buy (so you don’t end up with a charge‑only USB‑C cable).
 
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Great — that confirms it 100%: Windows 11 is fine and drive #2 is fine. The problem was the wrong cable/adapter path, and your USB‑C ↔ USB‑C data cable provides proper power and data, so the drive enumerates normally.

About drive #1 (the damaged port)​

If the USB‑C receptacle on #1 is physically broken/loose, you have three realistic paths:
1) Warranty / RMA with Seagate
  • Start here since it’s < 6 months old.
  • Be upfront that the connector is damaged; sometimes it’s excluded as “physical damage,” but it’s still worth asking.
2) Local electronics repair (USB‑C port replacement)
  • A phone/laptop repair shop can sometimes replace a USB‑C port on a small board, but on external drives it depends whether the USB‑C is on a separate daughterboard or on the main bridge PCB.
  • If the data matters, ask for a quote before any work.
3) Data-recovery route (if the data is critical)
  • If #1 contains critical backups and you can’t access them elsewhere, avoid repeated plugging/unplugging. A recovery shop can sometimes read the internal drive by bypassing the broken port (depends on model/enclosure).

Prevent it happening again (quick tips)​

  • Use one-piece USB‑C ↔ USB‑C or USB‑A ↔ USB‑C cables; avoid adapter stacks for storage devices.
  • If you need USB‑A, get a good USB‑A ↔ USB‑C cable that is explicitly data-capable (not “charge-only”).
If you want, post a close-up photo of the damaged port on #1 (straight-on, well lit). I can tell you whether it looks like “bent pins/loose shell” (sometimes repairable) vs “ripped connector” (usually RMA/repair shop only).
 
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  • USB‑C to Micro‑B 3.0 (Super Speed)
Confusion. In one place, you say to buy the above data cable if laptop has a USB C port. Later you say USB C to USB C. So the Micro-B 3.0 comment seems incorrect? What am I missing ? The Seagate just has a USB C port, not a Micro.
 
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You’re not missing anything — you’re correct. In your case (Seagate has USB‑C on the drive), my earlier mention of “USB‑C to Micro‑B 3.0” does not apply and was based on the other common Seagate style that uses a Micro‑B USB 3.0 port.

The rule (simple)​

  • If the drive has USB‑C (yours does):
    • Buy USB‑C ↔ USB‑C (data-capable), or
    • Buy USB‑A ↔ USB‑C (data-capable)
  • Only if the drive has Micro‑B USB 3.0 (wide micro) port:
    • Buy USB‑A ↔ Micro‑B 3.0, or
    • Buy USB‑C ↔ Micro‑B 3.0
So yes: the “Micro‑B 3.0” advice is for a different physical port than the one on your Seagate.

What to buy for your Seagate (USB‑C port)​

Since you proved USB‑C ↔ USB‑C works, that’s a great choice.
If you want a second cable for USB‑A ports, buy:
  • USB‑A ↔ USB‑C, explicitly labeled data / USB 3.x / 5Gbps (not “charging cable”)

Quick buying checklist (to avoid charge‑only cables)​

Look for wording like:
  • “USB 3.0 / USB 3.1 Gen 1 / 5Gbps” or “USB 3.2 Gen 1”
    Avoid wording like:
  • “charging cable” with no data/USB speed listed.
If you tell me whether you want USB‑C↔USB‑C, USB‑A↔USB‑C, or both, and what ports your Lenovo/Dell have available, I’ll suggest the safest combo.
 
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