Dual boot Windows 11 and one version cannot connect to WiFi or Ethernet

[Grifftech]

I have a dual boot setup from when I built my new rig and my main boot is the fresh install. Well this morning we had two short power outages for about 10 seconds each and they happened within a few minutes of each other

Came home from work and couldn't get online from the PC but everything in the house is connected to the WiFi with zero issues

So I tried restarting numerous times, ipconfig release/renew, full power down then back on, flush DNS. I was stumped so I switched to the other boot drive and it connected to the WiFi and Ethernet just fine

I downloaded the WLAN and LAN drivers for my motherboard while in the working boot drive and put them on a SSD both OSs can access and I installed them in the broken Windows OS and I still can't connect.

I am tempted to run the Windows Repair I came across in System Recovery but will lose all my apps but will keep my files.

I have never come across this before and I know the motherboard Ethernet and WiFi still work since they work in the other boot drive. Just stumped

 

[ChatGPT]

Hi Grifftech — annoying problem, but good troubleshooting so far. Because the other Windows install on the same hardware connects fine, this is almost certainly a software/configuration problem inside the broken Windows (not the motherboard NIC or Wi‑Fi hardware). Before you do a Repair/Reset that removes apps, try the targeted checks and fixes below (ordered from safest/simple → more intrusive). I'll also show things I need you to paste back if those steps don't fix it.
Quick notes from your post

• Two short outages could have left the broken Windows network stack or driver config corrupted. Similar symptoms and fixes are commonly resolved with winsock/ip/tcp stack resets, SFC/DISM or a network reset.

Steps to try (run in the broken Windows first)
1) Simple checks (5 minutes)

• Open Device Manager → Network adapters. Do you see your Ethernet and Wi‑Fi adapters listed? Any yellow exclamation marks? If the adapters are missing or show errors, right‑click → Uninstall device (only for the adapter), then from the top menu choose Action → Scan for hardware changes.
• In Device Manager, View → Show hidden devices and remove any old/ghost network adapters.

2) Reset Winsock, TCP/IP and renew DHCP (admin Command Prompt)

• Run these commands one at a time (each should say success or will prompt to reboot):
  • netsh winsock reset
  • netsh int ip reset
  • ipconfig /flushdns
  • ipconfig /release
  • ipconfig /renew
• Reboot and test. Many users recover connectivity with this sequence.

3) Network Reset (GUI) — non-destructive, reinstalls adapters

• Settings → Network & internet → Advanced network settings → Network reset (Windows 10/11). This will reinstall all network adapters and reset networking components. Reboot when it asks.
• This is usually less destructive than a full OS reset and often fixes stubborn stack/driver issues.

4) Check services (quick)

• Run Command Prompt (admin):
  • sc query dhcp
  • sc query dnscache
  • sc query netprofm
• Each should show STATE: RUNNING (or at least not STOPPED). If DHCP or DNS Client is stopped, that can prevent network.

5) SFC + DISM (repairs system files) — 10–30 minutes

• In admin Command Prompt:
  • sfc /scannow
  • If SFC reports issues it couldn't fix, run:
  • DISM /Online /Cleanup‑Image /RestoreHealth
  • Reboot and retest. Forums commonly recommend SFC/DISM before a repair install.

6) Power / advanced adapter settings

• Device Manager → adapter → Properties → Power Management: uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.”
• Adapter → Advanced tab: ensure Speed & Duplex is Auto/Negotiation (not forced), and disable any “Green Ethernet” or power‑saving features.

7) Test in Safe Mode with Networking

• Reboot into Safe Mode with Networking. If networking works there, a 3rd‑party driver/anti‑virus/VPN or startup service is interfering. If it works in Safe Mode, try a clean boot (msconfig) to isolate the offending startup.

8) Check for VPN/virtual adapters

• In Control Panel → Network Connections, uninstall any unused virtual adapters (Hyper‑V, Hamachi, VPN clients). They can hijack routing/DNS.

9) If still no luck: compare working vs broken OS outputs
Boot the working Windows and the broken Windows and capture these command outputs (paste them here):

• ipconfig /all (from BOTH installs)
• route print
• netsh interface show interface
• Get-NetAdapter | Format-Table -Auto (PowerShell admin) — or at least list adapter names/status
  Comparing these will usually reveal if the broken OS lacks a DHCP lease, has wrong gateway, missing adapter, or a static IP/DNS setting.

When Repair/Reset is appropriate

• If none of the above fixes it, you have two common options:
  • “Reset this PC → Keep my files” will remove apps and settings but keep files (you said this is what you found).
  • An in‑place Repair Install (running the Windows 11 ISO and choosing Upgrade/Keep personal files and apps) normally PRESERVES apps and files and repairs Windows system files — I recommend this first if you want to keep installed applications. Try the targeted fixes above before doing either.

Important warnings & notes

• Winsock reset or network reset can remove some VPN/proxy/network software; you may need to reinstall their clients afterward.
• Back up anything irreplaceable before doing a Reset or repair install (always good practice).
• Because your other Windows install works, the fastest practical fallback is to boot that working install, download a known‑good USB Wi‑Fi adapter driver or Windows ISO, and prepare tools (or a portable browser) to fetch fixes while you work on the broken OS.

If you want, I can:

• Walk you through each command and tell you what to expect.
• Analyze your ipconfig /all and device-manager output if you paste them here (best next step).
• Explain how to create a Windows 11 ISO for an in‑place repair if we get to that.

Which would you like to try first? If you prefer, paste the output of ipconfig /all from the broken install and a screenshot of Device Manager (Network adapters) and I’ll point to the exact problem.