Logitech MX Master 3 losing connectivity

[Distorted Vision]

I am running Windows 11.

The PC is assigned to 1 of 3 in the Easy-Switch. When it loses connectivity the '1' light is no longer lit. Issue is only resolved by powering off the mouse and powering back on.

I have tried:

Charging the mouse overnight
Moved the Logitech Unifying Receiver to different USB ports
Checked for new firmware and updates for Logi Options+

 

[Distorted Vision]

@ChatGPT Where are you?

 

[ChatGPT]

I'm ChatGPT — the forum's virtual assistant (user ID 125694). I don't have a physical location; I run as software on the forum/hosting servers and show up here in this thread.
If you meant the Logitech MX Master 3 issue: I can help — what OS are you using, and is the mouse connected by Bluetooth or the Unifying receiver? What symptoms are you seeing and what have you tried so far?

 

[Mike]

@ChatGPT Can you summarize this entire thread thus far and come up with a definitive solution for Distorted Vision's issue?

 

[ChatGPT]

Short summary (what happened so far)

• Original symptom: MX Master 3 loses its Easy‑Switch channel (channel LED goes out) and only a mouse power‑cycle restores it. You’re on Windows 11 and the same Unifying receiver also hosts a Logitech K800 keyboard which stays connected during mouse failures.
• Key evidence collected (logs / tests): Windows captures and your Linux traces show the Unifying receiver remained enumerated while the mouse stopped sending events — no xHCI/controller resets were seen. That pattern points to a per‑device radio / pairing / session failure (mouse ↔ receiver) rather than a global USB host/controller problem.
• High‑value diagnostic result: Placing the Unifying receiver on a passive UGreen USB‑2.0 extension plugged into a rear motherboard USB2 port stopped the permanent disconnects. That strongly implicates RF/placement or USB3 interference / antenna geometry as the practical root cause.

Definitive, one‑pass solution (do these in order; stop when fixed)
1) Keep the UGreen passive USB‑2.0 extension in a rear motherboard USB2 port and test for 24–48 hours.

• Why: this already eliminated permanent disconnects for you and is the simplest, safest long‑term workaround. If stable, treat this as the fix.

2) If you want to fully rule out hardware (optional, next best test)

• Pair the MX Master 3 to Bluetooth and use it for 10–30 minutes. If Bluetooth is rock‑stable while Unifying previously failed, the problem is the Unifying link/receiver or its placement.

3) Cross‑host / receiver swap (decisive isolation)

• Put the same mouse + UGreen + spare Unifying receiver on a different known‑good PC for 10–30 minutes. Interpretation:
  • Stable on other PC → likely host/driver/BIOS or original receiver placement on your main PC.
  • Fails on other PC (or fails with spare receiver) → likely the mouse hardware itself.

4) If the mouse drops again, collect the immediate Windows traces (do NOT reboot) and attach them here so I can parse them and give the single next action:

• In an elevated PowerShell run (copy/paste exactly):
  $start = (Get-Date).AddMinutes(-60)
  Get-PnpDevice -PresentOnly | Where-Object { $_.InstanceId -match 'VID_046D|VID0A5C' } | Format-List FriendlyName,InstanceId,Status | Out-File "$env:USERPROFILE\Desktop\MouseDeviceInfo.txt"
  Get-WinEvent -FilterHashtable @{LogName='System'; StartTime=$start} | Where-Object { $.ProviderName -match 'Kernel-PnP|USBHUB3|USB' -or $_.Message -match 'USB|usb|hub|reset|removed|disconnect|device|xhci|ehci' } | Select-Object TimeCreated, ProviderName, Id, LevelDisplayName, Message | Out-File "$env:USERPROFILE\Desktop\USB_Events_Last60min.txt"
• Attach MouseDeviceInfo.txt and USB_Events_Last60min.txt here and I’ll read them immediately and tell you the one precise remediation (driver/BIOS update vs. RMA).

5) If tests show the failure follows the mouse (i.e., mouse fails on other PCs / Bluetooth also fails), RMA the mouse. I can draft the exact RMA message you paste to Logitech; include the logs/tarball and the cross‑test notes (K800 stayed connected while mouse channel dropped). Example RMA wording and what to attach are already prepared in the thread if you want me to draft it.
Quick troubleshooting checklist (if you prefer a shorter run‑book)

• Leave UGreen in rear USB2 port for 24–48h (keep it).
• Test Bluetooth (isolates radio).
• Swap receiver / cross‑host test.
• Capture PowerShell logs if it drops again and attach them.

Bottom line / recommendation

• The practical fix that worked: keep the passive USB‑2.0 extension in a rear USB2 port; treat that as the working solution unless you need the receiver elsewhere. That resolves the issue in the large majority of cases and matches the captured evidence showing a per‑device radio/pairing problem rather than a USB controller failure.

Would you like me to:

• Draft the Logitech RMA/support message now (I’ll include the exact logs and repro steps), or
• Wait and parse MouseDeviceInfo.txt + USB_Events_Last60min.txt if another drop happens?

 

[Distorted Vision]

I want to wrap things up with this thread.

When you were away. I unpaired the MX Master 3 from all 3 Unifying receivers. I try to pair it with Bluetooth. Unfortunately, I could not discover the MX Master 3 from this PC. I checked with my phone and the mouse was definitely discoverable:

Anyway I do not wish to pursue any further diagnostics as I have an action plan in place:

Use K800 and MX Master 3 with Unifying receiver which is Logi branded as a temporary solution. If there is an issue with the MX Master 3 which makes it unusable I will use the MX Master 3S from my laptop with its own Bolt receiver.

I will order a new K650 keyboard and MX Master 3S mouse when on offer during Black Friday. These both use a Bolt receiver.
I will keep the Ugreen extension in place on my desk and is connected to a rear USB 2.0 on the motherboard for use when the new Bolt devices arrive. I'm assuming you would recommend this over using either the Belkin USB 2.0 hub or the Anker 3.0 hub.

I was not able to install the 2025-10 Cumulative Update for Windows 11, version 25H2 for x64-based Systems (KB5070773) (26200.6901).
I will create a new thread as this became a detour from the original topic of this thread which I see requires no further diagnostic as I am happy with the temporary solution until purchasing the new hardware.

 

[ChatGPT]

Looks good — nice plan, Distorted Vision. A few quick confirmations and a couple of small tips before you close this thread.
Summary

• I can see the phone screenshot showing the MX Master 3 is discoverable from the phone but not from the PC. You’re happy to stop further diagnostics for now and use the Logi-branded Unifying receiver + K800 as a temporary setup, then replace with Bolt devices on Black Friday. That’s sensible.

Recommendation on the USB arrangement

• Yes — using the UGREEN extension plugged into a rear USB 2.0 port on the motherboard is what I’d recommend over putting the receiver into the Belkin USB 2.0 hub or the Anker USB 3.0 hub on your desk. Reasons:
  1. Direct rear motherboard ports avoid extra hub electronics and potential grounding/noise issues that can interfere with wireless receivers.
  2. USB 3.0 controllers and some inexpensive hubs can generate RF noise around the 2.4 GHz band and cause dropouts or pairing problems for 2.4 GHz receivers (Unifying/Bolt). Keeping the receiver on a USB 2.0 connection and positioned away from USB 3.0 ports reduces that risk.
  3. A short extension to move the receiver up onto the desk gives the best line-of-sight to the mouse and reduces interference from the PC/metallic chassis.

Practical tips for the extension / receiver placement

1. Use the rear USB 2.0 port on the motherboard and put the UGREEN extension on the desk so the receiver sits clear of the PC chassis. Keep the cable as short as practical.
2. Keep the receiver (and extension) away from Wi‑Fi router/antenna, other Bluetooth devices, and USB 3.0 ports/cables.
3. If you ever need a hub, pick a high‑quality, powered, well‑shielded hub — but avoid plugging the receiver into a busy USB 3.0 hub if you can.
4. If you notice interference after you swap to Bolt devices, you can still try a ferrite bead on the cable or an active (powered) USB extension with shielding — but those are usually only necessary in tricky environments.

Windows Update (KB5070773)

• Since you couldn’t install the Oct‑2025 cumulative (KB5070773) and you plan a separate thread — good idea. When you open that new thread, include:
  • The exact error code Windows Update shows (0x----).
  • Any WindowsUpdate.log or DISM / SFC output if you run those.
  • Whether you have any third‑party AV running, and whether Secure Boot / BitLocker are enabled.
    I can walk through the update-specific steps then.

Closing

• Your temporary solution (Logi Unifying receiver + K800 on the desk) is fine until you buy Bolt devices. If you want, I’ll mark this thread as resolved for the MX Master 3 connectivity and help you with the Windows Update thread next — or I can stay subscribed and help if anything else comes up.

Would you like me to post a short “Resolved / temporary workaround in place” reply here for you to copy, or should I close this thread?

 

[Distorted Vision]

Yes post a resolved / temporary workaround in place reply and close the thread.

 

[ChatGPT]

Resolved — temporary workaround in place
Thanks — sounds like a good plan, Distorted Vision. Summary and final notes for the thread:

• Problem: MX Master 3 would not pair with this PC (PC could not discover it; phone could).
• Temporary workaround: Using the Logi Unifying receiver + K800 on the desktop, and keeping the MX Master 3S on your laptop with its Bolt receiver. You’ll replace both devices with Bolt-equipped K650 + MX Master 3S on Black Friday.
• USB/receiver placement (confirmed): Keep the UGREEN extension plugged into a rear USB 2.0 motherboard port and place the Unifying receiver on the desk (as shown). This is preferred over the Belkin USB 2.0 hub or the Anker USB 3.0 hub because it reduces RF noise and gives better line‑of‑sight to the mouse.
  • Keep the receiver away from Wi‑Fi routers, other Bluetooth dongles, and USB 3.0 ports/cables.
  • If you later see interference, try a different rear port or a short, well‑shielded extension before changing hardware.
• Windows Update (KB5070773): You weren’t able to install the Oct‑2025 cumulative — opening a new thread for that is the right call. When you do, include the exact Windows Update error code, any DISM / SFC output, and whether third‑party AV / BitLocker / Secure Boot are in use. I’ll help troubleshoot there.

Thread status

• Marking this thread as resolved / closed per your request. If anything changes or you want me to reopen this thread, just post here and I’ll pick it up.

Glad the temporary setup works — nice photo of the receiver placement.
— ChatGPT (forum assistant)

 

[datawizard0103]

Try this - open Device Manager, expand Bluetooth and USB controllers, and for each device, open Properties > Power Management and uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.” Do the same for your HID-compliant mouse entries. Then go to Settings > Bluetooth & devices, remove your mouse, and pair it again with the same Easy-Switch number. If it still disconnects, update your Bluetooth and chipset drivers from your PC maker’s website. This usually stops the mouse from dropping connection.

 

[ChatGPT]

Good checklist — here’s a compact, safe, step‑by‑step version you can run through now (plus a few extra checks that commonly stop intermittent Bluetooth mouse drops). I’ll include exact places to click/commands and how to undo each change.
Immediate steps (do these first)
1) Power‑management on Bluetooth + USB hubs

• Open Device Manager.
• Expand Bluetooth → right‑click each adapter → Properties → Power Management → uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.”
• Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers → for each “USB Root Hub” / “Generic USB Hub” → Properties → Power Management → uncheck the same option.
  Why: internal webcams, BT radios and dongles sit on USB buses and Windows can power them down; disabling this often fixes drops. You can re‑check the boxes later to undo.

2) HID devices (mouse entries)

• In Device Manager expand “Human Interface Devices” and “Mice and other pointing devices” → for each HID‑compliant mouse entry → Properties → Power Management → uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.”
• Reboot and test.

3) Re‑pair the mouse (clean pairing)

• Settings → Bluetooth & devices → remove the mouse (Forget).
• Put the mouse into pairing mode and re‑pair using the same Easy‑Switch channel. If you use a USB dongle (Logitech Unifying / Bolt), remove and re‑insert it into a USB 2.0 port (not a USB 3.0/3.1 port or hub) and pair with the vendor app.
  Why: ghost pairings or dual connections (dongle + BT) cause conflicts.

If it still disconnects — next troubleshooting
4) Update drivers & firmware (OEM first)

• Download latest Bluetooth and chipset drivers from your PC/motherboard maker (Lenovo/Dell/HP/ASUS etc.. Install chipset first, reboot, then Bluetooth driver.
• For Logitech/other mice, install their firmware/Logi Options/Unifying tool and update the mouse firmware if offered.
  Why: vendor drivers/firmware often fix stability issues.

5) Disable USB selective suspend & tweak power plan

• Control Panel → Power Options → Change plan settings → Change advanced power settings → USB settings → USB selective suspend setting → Disable (both On battery/Plugged in).
• Also set Wireless Adapter Settings → Power Saving Mode → Maximum Performance.
  Why: prevents the USB controller from aggressively suspending the dongle/radio.

6) Restart Bluetooth services & clear ghost devices

• Open Services (services.msc): restart “Bluetooth Support Service” and “Device Association Service” (if present). Set them to Automatic (Delayed Start) if not already.
• In Device Manager View → Show hidden devices → uninstall any old/ghost Bluetooth devices or old COM ports that correspond to your mouse. Reboot.
  Why: lingering legacy entries can interfere with pairing.

7) Test isolation & interference

• Test the mouse on another PC (or test another BT mouse on this PC) to rule out hardware.
• If using a USB dongle, try different USB ports and move the dongle closer to the mouse (use a short USB extension). Avoid placing the dongle behind metal or next to Wi‑Fi/USB 3.0 devices which can cause RF interference.

Advanced (only if still failing)
8) Clean boot

• msconfig → Services tab → hide Microsoft services → disable 3rd‑party services → restart. If stable, re‑enable services one by one to find the conflict.

9) powercfg checks (find what’s causing wake/keepalive problems)

• Open elevated CMD and run: powercfg -requests and powercfg -devicequery wake_armed — these show devices/processes that interact with power and can help diagnose if something else is resetting the radio.

10) Permanent override for stubborn apps

• If a specific process is continuously requesting the radio, you can override it (use sparingly):
  powercfg /requestsoverride PROCESS appname.exe SYSTEM
  (Only use after you identify the exact app from powercfg -requests.

How to undo

• Re‑enable Power Management checkboxes you changed, re‑enable USB selective suspend, or reinstall previous drivers if you want to revert. Keep note of driver installer files so you can roll back.

If you want, I can:

• Give the exact Device Manager path and screenshots for your Windows version, or
• Walk you step‑by‑step live (I’ll prompt the next click and command).
  Also tell me: laptop/desktop make & model, mouse model (Logitech MX-anything?, and whether you use a dongle or native Bluetooth — I’ll tailor the driver/firmware links and exact steps.

 

[EllianAzazel]

I am running Windows 11.

The PC is assigned to 1 of 3 in the Easy-Switch. When it loses connectivity the '1' light is no longer lit. Issue is only resolved by powering off the mouse and powering back on.

I have tried:

Charging the mouse overnight
Moved the Logitech Unifying Receiver to different USB ports
Checked for new firmware and updates for Logi Options+

I was having this exact issue for a few days. After trying a number of fixes mostly related to the bluetooth receiver, I realized the issue was most likely within the mouse itself. Changing ports did nothing, and connection was resolved just as yours was, by cycling the power switch on the mouse.

Now, it's likely too late for you (I see you purchased a new mouse) but I believe I've found the solution, and if you ever have this issue again with the new mouse, this may help. I may eat my words if it fails again soon, but it's been functioning for nearly three hours straight now when before I couldn't get it to work for more than 5 minutes, and sometimes only miliseconds.

To anyone else who may find this: The solution appears to be disassembling the mouse and cleaning the switch connection. I cleaned around the power switch connection and along the circuit board with a cotton swab dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol. Nothing appeared amiss; there was no noticeable debris or corrosion, but it appears to have resolved the issue! It could also have been a poor connection and simply disconnecting/reconnecting everything resolved the issue, but whichever it was, it seems to be a hardware malfunction, not software.

I will say to anyone attempting this: be careful. Make sure you carefully remove the screw covers so as not to deform them, and get all the way underneath them so they you don't strip it off the under layer. I also accidentally snapped one side of the tab connector for one of the ribon cables; those DO NOT come all the way off. Thankfully I only broke one side, and it should hold fine so long as I'm not throwing and banging my mouse around. Also, the screws holding the battery housing are slightly longer than all the other screws. You will also need a tiny star screwdriver for one screw, but the rest are all tiny phillips.

I also may have messed up my left and right mouse buttons just a touch. My left mouse seems to some extra travel now, and the right is finnicky, but I think the last one is mostly because I didn't put in the housing screws yet and it's all just a touch loose. I may pull her back open and try to resolve the button issues, but even if I don't get them just perfect, SHE WORKS, which is far more than I can say before this operation.

Here is a video I found with very detailed disassembly. You only need to get the circuit board out to access the switch on the bottom, but it was very satisfying to watch the entire disassembly process.



Best of luck to you all. I hope this helps someone keep their mouse functional for at least a little longer.

Peace, love, and all that jazz.
~Ellian

 

[Distorted Vision]

ChatGPT, I thought I would give you an update to finalise this thread.
I created a RMA using the text that you prepared. They could not offer a repair solution but instead offered a 20% discount code to buy a new mouse.
I actually used this mouse to buy a new K650 keyboard which uses the Bolt receiver. Turns out the code gave a 35% discount.

I bought a MX Master 3S mouse in a Pre-Black Friday deal from Amazon.

Here's some photos:

I am continuing to use the UGreen USB extension cable as you recommended.
That's a wrap - please close this thread.

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks for the update — great outcome!
Quick recap of your final notes:

• You created the RMA using the text I prepared. Vendor offered a 20% code (no repair).
• You used the code to buy a K650 (Bolt receiver) and the code actually gave you 35% — nice win.
• You also picked up an MX Master 3S (Pre‑Black Friday Amazon deal).
• You’re continuing to use the UGreen USB extension cable for the receiver as I recommended.
• Photos received — looks great.

All done — I’ve closed the thread per your earlier request. If you want, I can:

• Post a short “final post” into the thread summarising the whole fix + purchases, or
• Keep a short checklist for the MX Master / K650 pairing (drivers, Logi Options+, Bolt tips).

Otherwise — that’s a wrap. Glad it all worked out; enjoy the new gear!