Microsoft Drivers Windows 11 Pro Version 22H5

1) First: confirm whether you’re on an optional preview update​

• If the issues pre-date that update, keep going—this is likely platform driver/power latency.

2) Do the 10-minute test that identifies the actual culprit: LatencyMon​

• If you see ACPI.sys or power-management related items high on the list → power state transitions can be stalling the system.
• If you see network drivers (very common on Realtek Wi‑Fi/BT combos) → update/rollback that specific driver.
• If you see USB hub / HID / Bluetooth stack drivers → power management or BT/Wi‑Fi driver packages are often involved.

3) Platform-specific fixes that commonly stop 1–2 second stalls on AM4/B550​

A) Update these from ASUS (not Windows Update)​

1. Latest BIOS (very important on AM4; also resets a lot of weird stability edge cases)
2. AMD Chipset driver (from ASUS or AMD—either is fine, but make sure it’s current)
3. Wi‑Fi driver and Bluetooth driver (these are big suspects given your “mouse erratic” + general UI stalls)

B) Temporarily eliminate Wi‑Fi/Bluetooth as variables (simple test)​

• Disable Wi‑Fi and Bluetooth in Device Manager (or BIOS, if you prefer)
• Use Ethernet (if possible)
• Use a wired USB mouse/keyboard (no receiver, no BT)

4) Power management changes that often fix stutter (reversible)​

1. Set:
   • PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
   • USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
   • Processor power management → Minimum processor state: try 10% (plugged in) instead of 5%

• For USB Root Hub entries and Bluetooth adapter (if present):
  • Properties → Power Management
  • Uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”

5) The “permissions blocked even though I’m admin” symptom​

• Windows Security → Virus & threat protection → Ransomware protection → Controlled folder access
  • If ON, it can block certain apps from writing/changing things even for admins.
• Windows Security → App & browser control → Smart App Control
  • SAC can block untrusted apps/installers. Recent builds changed SAC behavior/toggles.

6) Why AMD/Logitech “won’t replace Microsoft drivers”​

• Ryzen CPU showing Microsoft provider in Device Manager is normal.
• Keyboard/mouse being Microsoft HID is normal; Logitech customization comes from apps like Logi Options+ rather than a new kernel driver.
  So I would stop fighting that and focus on the drivers that actually cause stalls (chipset, Wi‑Fi/BT, USB, storage).

Two questions (quick) that will let me give you a very specific “do X, Y, Z” order:​

• The real culprit is a 3rd‑party driver underneath (Wi‑Fi/LAN filter, VPN, AV web filter, NIC driver, etc.), but LatencyMon “credits” the Windows core modules that are being delayed.
• Your USB receiver mouse/keyboard are likely victims, not the cause: when the kernel stalls for ~0.5–0.7 ms bursts (or worse in spikes), input queues can “catch up” and you’ll see the repeated key / erratic cursor symptoms.

1) Network stack (most likely): isolate and fix tcpip.sys / ndis.sys​

A. Quick isolation test (10 minutes)​

1. Disconnect from the internet.
2. Disable your Wi‑Fi adapter:
   • Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → right‑click Disable device
3. Reboot and use the PC for 15–30 minutes (offline is fine).

B. Fix steps if Wi‑Fi is implicated​

1. Install the latest Wi‑Fi driver for your exact motherboard from ASUS (B550M‑Plus WiFi II).
2. In Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties:
   • Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
   • If there’s an Advanced tab with power-saving options, set anything like “Power Saving Mode” to Off / CAM / Maximum Performance (wording varies).

C. If you run any VPN / “network helper” software​

• VPN clients (even when “not connected” sometimes)
• 3rd party firewall suites / web protection
• bandwidth managers / traffic shapers

2) Power-management latency (LatencyMon explicitly hints this)​

• PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10% (you can try 10–20%)

• Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

3) Graphics kernel (dxgkrnl.sys): reduce driver/overlay triggers​

1. Clean install the AMD Adrenalin driver for the 5600G:
   • Use AMD Cleanup Utility, reboot, then install the current AMD package.
2. Turn off overlays temporarily:
   • AMD overlay, Xbox Game Bar overlay, Discord overlay, etc.
3. Browser test (since you mentioned white-page glitches):
   • In Edge/Chrome: Settings → System → disable Hardware acceleration (just as a test)

4) Storage stack (CLASSPNP.SYS): quick checks​

1. Samsung Magician → check your NVMe firmware is current.
2. Make sure you don’t have old storage filter drivers (common culprits: old encryption tools, old backup imaging tools).
3. Run (Admin Command Prompt):

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
sfc /scannow
chkdsk C: /scan

5) One question that will let me pinpoint it further​

• “TAP-Windows Adapter”, “Wintun”, “WireGuard”, “Cisco”, “Nord”, “ExpressVPN”, etc.
• Any “packet filter” / “lightweight filter” drivers listed in adapter properties

Uninstall KB507:**​

1. Settings → Windows Update → Update history → Uninstall updates
2. Find KB5074828 → Uninstall → reboot

Note: Some cumulative updates are harder to roll back depending on how they were delivered. If KB5074828 doesn’t appear in “Uninstall updates” or won’t uninstall, tell me what you see there and we’ll use the next-best isolation steps.

Click to expand...

2) While you test: the #1 isolation sencyMon top drivers​

Temporarily disable the Wi‑Fi adapter (10–20 minutes)​

1. Device Manager → Network adapters
2. Right-click Realtek 8852BE → Disable device
3. Reboot
4. Use the PC offline for 15–30 minutes and see if the 1–2 second stalls + “stuck key” behavior improves

3) Power-management tweaks (safe/reversible) that often fi​

1. Control Panel → Power Options → (your active plan) → Change plan settings → Axpress → Link State Power Management: Off
   • USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
   • Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): set to 10%
2. Device Manager → open each USB Root Hub / Generic USB Hub → Properties → Power Management
   • Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

4) One thing to confirm (so we don’t chase the wrong “network”)​

• What antivirus/security suite are you running (Defender only, or something else)?
• Do you have any VPN installed (even if you don’t use it)?

5) About the “permissions blocked though I’m admin”​

• Windows Security → Virus & threat protection → Ransomware protection → Controlled folder access
• W& browser control → Smart App Control

What I need back from you (so we can finish this efficiently)​

Step 0 (optional but recommended): Create a Restore Point​

1. Click Start
2. Type Create a restore point
3. Open it → System Protection tab
4. Click Create… → name it “Before latency testing”

Step 1 (the one test I want you to do first): Disable Wi‑Fi temporarily​

How to do it​

1. Right‑click Start → Device Manager
2. Expand Network adapters
3. Find Realtek 8852BE Wireless LAN WiFi 6 PCIe NIC
4. Right‑click it → Disable device
5. Restart the PC

What to test​

• Use the PC for 10–15 minutes (you can be offline)
• Type in Notepad, browse local files, open a couple apps
• Watch for the 1–2 second freezes and the “stuck key” behavior

Tell me the result (just pick one)​

Why I’m starting here​

• Low risk
• Easy to reverse
• Gives a clear yes/no answer that determines whether we focus on Wi‑Fi driver/settings/VPN/security filtering or move on to graphics/storage/power next.

1) First confirm what’s “still Windows” (2 checks)​

• Driver Date
• Driver Version

• If you see a Realtek .sys driver file (often starting with rt / rtw / rtux / similar), then you likely are using the Realtek driver even if the Provider says Microsoft.
• If it’s clearly a very old version/date compared to ASUS, then you’re not getting the update applied.

2) Force-install the ASUS Wi‑Fi driver via “Have Disk” (most reliable)​

1. Download the Wi‑Fi driver for ASUS B550M‑Plus WiFi II from ASUS Support.
2. If it’s a ZIP, extract it (right‑click → Extract all).
3. Open Device Manager
4. Network adapters → right‑click Realtek 8852BE → Update driver
5. Choose Browse my computer for drivers
6. Choose Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer
7. Click Have Disk…
8. Browse to the extracted ASUS driver folder and select the .inf file (it may be in a subfolder)
9. Next → Finish → Reboot

3) Stop Windows from instantly swapping it back (common gotcha)​

1. Disconnect from the internet (turn off Wi‑Fi / unplug Ethernet)
2. Install the driver (step 2 above)
3. Reboot
4. Re-check Driver Version/Date

4) If it still won’t take: clean removal then reinstall​

1. Device Manager → Realtek 8852BE → Uninstall device
2. Important: check “Attempt to remove the driver for this device” / “Delete the driver software for this device” (wording varies)
3. Reboot
4. Install using Have Disk again

Quick question (so I don’t send you down the wrong path)​

• Realtek 8852BE Wi‑Fi, or
• the Logitech receiver/keyboard/mouse, or
• AMD chipset/graphics?

1) Check if you’re on 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi (this matters a lot with Logitech receivers)​

If you are on 2.4 GHz:​

• If your router has a separate 5G Wi‑Fi name (SSID), connect to that instead.
• If it’s one combined Wi‑Fi name, see if your router has a setting like “prefer 5 GHz” / band steering.

2) Do the “easy physical fix” that often solves Logitech receiver issues​

• Plug the Logitech receiver into a rear USB 2.0 port (not a front port, not a USB 3.x hub).
• If you can, use a short USB 2.0 extension cable so the receiver sits on the desk a foot or two away from the PC.

3) Lock down Wi‑Fi power saving + set Wi‑Fi to “performance”​

A) Realtek adapce Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties:​

• Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

B) Windows power plan tweaks (reversible)​

• PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10%

4) Driver version: you’re already now try ASUS’s package anyway​

5) One quick question so I can tell which branch we’re in (interference vs latency)​

• A points more to 2.4 GHz interference / receiver placement
• B points more to network-driver latency spikes / power saving / filter drivers

Step 1: Check whether you’re actually on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz (from Windows)​

1. Open Command Prompt (not PowerShell is fine too)
2. Run:

1. Look for either:
   • Band (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz), or
   • Channel (channels 1–11 are almost always 2.4 GHz; higher channels like 36/40/44/149 etc. are 5 GHz), or
   • Radio type (not as definitive, but helpful)

Why this matters even for “B”​

If your output shows you’re on 2.4 GHz (quick workaround)​

• Check your Wi‑Fi list for a second network name like …-5G / …-5GHz
• If there’s only one SSID, you may need Home Telecom support to confirm dual-band and either enable the 5 GHz SSID or tell you the name/password for it.

1) Fastest confirmation: test with Ethernet (even temporarily)​

1. Disable Wi‑Fi (Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Disable)
2. Plug in Ethernet
3. Browse/stream the same way that triggers the slow mouse

2) Reduce Wi‑Fi power saving (very common cause)​

1. Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties
2. Power Management tab:
   • Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
3. If there’s an Advanced tab, set anything like:
   • Power Saving Mode = Off / Maximum Performance
   • Transmit Power = Highest (if available)

3) Rule out a browser GPU/acceleration interaction (quick toggle)​

Microsoft Edge​

4) About “router is 2.4 GHz — I don’t know how to change it”​

• show up as a second SSID name (often ends with -5G), or
• be “band-steered” under one name (and you can’t control it without admin access), or
• be locked down by the ISP.

• Look at the sticker on the router for a model number; if you tell me the model, I can tell you what’s typical for that unit (dual-band or not).
• Call Home Telecom and ask: “Can you enable a 5 GHz SSID or tell me the 5 GHz network name/password?”

One question that will narrow it immediately​

• Wi‑Fi driver / interrupts (often shows as System activity), or
• the browser/GPU pipeline itself.

Step 1 (biggest win): Try to get your PC onto 5 GHz without guessing router settings​

1. Open Command Prompt and run:
   ipconfig
2. Write down the Default Gateway (example: 192.168.1.1).
3. Open your browser and go to:
   • http://<Default Gateway> (example: [url]http://192.168.1.1[/url])
4. Look on the router sticker for admin/user + password. Many Calix units ship with credentials on the label.

If you can log in​

• A setting to create a Secondary Network that is 5 GHz only, or
• A “band steering / unified SSID” option plus a way to prefer 5 GHz.

• That often means the ISP controls it from their side (“cloud managed”). People frequently have to call the ISP to split bands / change radio settings on GigaSpire BLAST units.
  In that case, call Home Telecom and ask (very specifically):
  

  “Please enable a separate 5 GHz SSID (or set my device to prefer 5 GHz), because my Windows PC has severe input lag on 2.4 GHz.”

  Click to expand...

Step 2 (Windows-side fix): stop Wi‑Fi powero performance​

A) Realtek adapter power​

• Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

B) Windows power plan tweaks (desktop-safe)​

• PCI Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10%

Step 3 (because Safe Mode is fine): do a Clean Boot test to find the “normal-mode” culprit​

1. Press Win+R, type msconfig
2. Services tab → check Hide all Microsoft services → click Disable all
3. Startup tab → Open Task Manager → disable all Startup items
4. Reboot and test browsing

About those AMD processes you saw​

• Switch AMD Adrenalin to a driver-only/minimal install, or
• Clean reinstall AMD graphics drivers.

Step 4 (your suspicion about a Windows update): check dates and uninstall the likely KB only if timing matches​

• January 4, 2026, and/or
• February 5, 2026

Two quick questions (so I give the next single step, not a long list)​