Microsoft Drivers Windows 11 Pro Version 22H5

[Carolinaboy79]

Since updating my computer to Windows 11 Pro Version 25H2, I developed numerous issues that I've been trying to fix. Research indicates that there is a strong possibility that incompatible drivers could be the cause. While trying to verify if there was an updated driver to the one installed, I noticed that the drivers installed for my AMD Ryzen 5 5600G CPU, my Logitek Signature K855 mouse, and Logitek keyboard belong to Microsoft. I've attempted to download and install updated drivers from AMD and Logitek, but they will not replace the installed Microsoft drivers. Does Microsoft have something in Windows 11 Version 25H2 that is preventing the installation of the updated drivers and if so, I do I get around it?

 

[ChatGPT]

What you’re seeing is usually normal, and Windows 11 25H2 isn’t “blocking” AMD/Logitech drivers in the way it sounds—but Windows can (a) prefer inbox/class drivers from Microsoft for certain device types, and (b) replace vendor drivers later via Windows Update if it thinks its driver is a better “match.”

1) Why your “drivers” show as Microsoft​

AMD Ryzen 5 5600G “CPU driver” = Microsoft (normal)​

In Device Manager, the entries under Processors almost always show Driver Provider: Microsoft. There typically isn’t a separate “AMD CPU driver” to install there.
What does matter for AMD platforms is:

• AMD Chipset Drivers (from AMD)
• AMD Radeon Graphics (APU) driver (Adrenalin package, from AMD or your PC/motherboard vendor)

Those won’t necessarily replace the “Processor” entries, but they do install/update the important platform drivers.

Logitech keyboard/mouse showing Microsoft = normal (HID class driver)​

Most Logitech keyboards/mice use the standard Windows HID (Human Interface Device) class driver. That’s why you see Microsoft as the provider.
Logitech typically provides:

• A companion app (e.g., Logi Options+) for button mapping, DPI, gestures, etc.
• Sometimes a receiver/firmware tool (Unifying/Bolt)
  But not always a “replacement driver” in Device Manager for a basic USB/Bluetooth HID keyboard/mouse.

So if your Logitech devices work but you can’t “replace the driver,” that may be expected behavior.

2) The one case where this is a problem: Microsoft Basic Display Adapter​

If your display adapter (not the CPU) is using Microsoft Basic Display Adapter, then your AMD graphics driver is not installed correctly (or was removed/blocked). That can cause lots of “numerous issues” after an update.
Check:

• Device Manager → Display adapters
• If it’s Microsoft Basic Display Adapter → install AMD Adrenalin for the 5600G.
• If it shows AMD Radeon Graphics → driver is at least present.

3) What in Windows 11 can prevent/undo vendor driver installs?​

A) Windows Update driver replacement (common)​

Windows may reinstall its preferred driver after you install AMD’s, especially right after a feature update.
To stop driver delivery via Windows Update (Windows 11 Pro):

• gpedit.msc
• Computer Configuration → Administrative Templates → Windows Components → Windows Update → Manage updates offered from Windows Update
• Enable “Do not include drivers with Windows Updates”
• Reboot, then reinstall the AMD drivers

(You can also hide a specific driver update using Microsoft’s “Show or hide updates” troubleshooter, if a particular driver keeps coming back.)

B) Core Isolation / Memory Integrity (HVCI) blocking older drivers​

Windows 11 security can block certain older/incompatible kernel drivers (more common with older hardware utilities than with current AMD drivers).
Check:

• Windows Security → Device security → Core isolation → Memory integrity
  If it’s ON and you have an old driver that’s blocked, Windows will usually list the incompatible driver(s). For AMD 5600G current drivers, this is usually not the issue, but it’s worth checking.

C) Driver signature enforcement​

Windows 11 requires properly signed drivers. If you’re trying to install something old/modified, it may refuse. (Again: current AMD/Logitech downloads should be fine.)

4) How to correctly install AMD drivers so they “stick”​

Step 1 — Install AMD Chipset driver (important)​

Download from AMD (Chipset Drivers for AM4 / B450/B550/X570 etc.) and install.

• This updates power plan components, PCI device drivers, GPIO, SMBus, etc.

Step 2 — Clean-install AMD graphics driver (if you’re having display/performance issues)​

• Download the latest AMD Software: Adrenalin Edition that supports the Ryzen 5 5600G.
• (Optional but helpful) Use AMD Cleanup Utility (or DDU in Safe Mode) to remove old AMD/Windows display drivers.
• Reboot and install Adrenalin.
• Reboot again.

Step 3 — If Windows keeps swapping it back​

Apply the Group Policy above to stop driver updates, then reinstall Adrenalin again.

5) Logitech: what to do instead of “driver replacement”​

For Logitech keyboard/mouse features:

• Install Logi Options+ (that’s typically what enables customization)
• If you use a USB receiver, confirm whether it’s Unifying or Logi Bolt, and install the correct companion software/firmware updater if needed.

But don’t expect Device Manager to switch away from Microsoft’s HID driver in most cases.

---

Quick questions so I can point you to the actual problematic driver​

1. What are the “numerous issues” (BSODs, freezes, USB dropouts, audio crackle, stutter, etc.)?
2. In Device Manager → Display adapters, what exactly is listed?
3. In Device Manager, do you see any devices with a yellow triangle under Other devices / System devices?
4. What motherboard or PC model is this (and are you on the latest BIOS)?
   If you reply with those details (especially the exact Display adapters entry), I can tell you whether you’re dealing with a missing AMD graphics driver, a chipset driver issue, or Windows Update driver replacement—and the most direct fix for your case.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

1) Some of the issues are computer freezing 1-2 seconds, if computer freezes while making a keyboard entry, the last key selected before computer freezes continues (i.e. kkkkkkkkkkkkk) when computer "unfreezes", selecting the "back" arrow on browser only works after selecting twice, when opening a website, a white screen opens with error message and then the website opens, when trying to change permissions in order to perform a function, changing permissions is not allowed even though I'm the administrator, mouse control becomes erratic frequently (all advice on correcting possible cause has failed), and those are just a few of my issues.
2) AMD Radeon (TM) Graphics is listed in Device Manager-Display adapters
3) There are no yellow triangles shown in Device Manager-Other devices/System devices
4) Motherboard is ASUS B550M-Plus WiFi II
5) I did manage to do a Windows 11 reinstallation using Settings-Recovery-Fix Problems Using Windows Update (Repair for 25H2). I've seen no changes in the performance of my PC.

 

[ChatGPT]

The “Microsoft driver” thing is almost certainly not the root cause here (it’s normal for the Ryzen “Processor” entries and HID keyboard/mouse to show Microsoft as the provider). Your symptom set screams short system-wide stalls (DPC/ISR latency) or power/USB/network driver latency, which then looks like “keyboard/mouse problems” because input queues get stuck during the stall and then “catch up” (the kkkkkkkk effect).
Below is the fastest way I’d isolate this on your exact platform (Ryzen 5600G + ASUS B550M-Plus WiFi II), with the least guesswork.

1) First: confirm whether you’re on an optional preview update​

Please go to Settings → Windows Update → Update history → Quality updates and look for KB5074105 (late January 2026 optional Release Preview update that targets build families in the 26100/26200 range). noticeably worse right after that update, temporarily uninstall it (Settings → Windows Update → Update history → Uninstall updates) and test for a day.

• If the issues pre-date that update, keep going—this is likely platform driver/power latency.

2) Do the 10-minute test that identifies the actual culprit: LatencyMon​

Your “freeze 1–2 seconds + input goes weird during the freeze” is classic DPC latency behavior. LatencyMon will usually point at the driver/module responsible (ACPI, network, USB, GPU, etc.), which lets us fix the real problem instead of swapping random drivers.
A solid, proven workflow is: run LatencyMon while reproducing the issue, then look at the highest DPC/ISR offenders and address them one-by-one.
*What to watch for

• If you see ACPI.sys or power-management related items high on the list → power state transitions can be stalling the system.
• If you see network drivers (very common on Realtek Wi‑Fi/BT combos) → update/rollback that specific driver.
• If you see USB hub / HID / Bluetooth stack drivers → power management or BT/Wi‑Fi driver packages are often involved.

If you paste a screenshot of the Drivers tab (top ~10), I can tell you exactly what to change.

3) Platform-specific fixes that commonly stop 1–2 second stalls on AM4/B550​

A) Update these from ASUS (not Windows Update)​

On B550 boards, Windows Update sometimes supplies “works-but-not-great” drivers.
From your ASUS support page for B550M-Plus WiFi II, install (in this order):

1. Latest BIOS (very important on AM4; also resets a lot of weird stability edge cases)
2. AMD Chipset driver (from ASUS or AMD—either is fine, but make sure it’s current)
3. Wi‑Fi driver and Bluetooth driver (these are big suspects given your “mouse erratic” + general UI stalls)

B) Temporarily eliminate Wi‑Fi/Bluetooth as variables (simple test)​

For one evening of testing:

• Disable Wi‑Fi and Bluetooth in Device Manager (or BIOS, if you prefer)
• Use Ethernet (if possible)
• Use a wired USB mouse/keyboard (no receiver, no BT)

If your problems disappear, you’ve essentially proven it’s a wireless/BT driver or power-management interaction (not your Logitech “Microsoft driver”).

4) Power management changes that often fix stutter (reversible)​

These are exactly the kind of conservative changes that often remove DPC spikes when ACPI/USB/PCIe power transitions are involved.
Try on your main power plan (plugged in):
ower Options → Change plan settings → Advanced**

1. Set:
   • PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
   • USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
   • Processor power management → Minimum processor state: try 10% (plugged in) instead of 5%

Then in Device Manager:

• For USB Root Hub entries and Bluetooth adapter (if present):
  • Properties → Power Management
  • Uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”

(These may slightly increase power use, but on a desktop they’re usually worth it if they stop system-wide stalls.)

5) The “permissions blocked even though I’m admin” symptom​

That one often comes from security features, not “being not-admin”:
Check:

• Windows Security → Virus & threat protection → Ransomware protection → Controlled folder access
  • If ON, it can block certain apps from writing/changing things even for admins.
• Windows Security → App & browser control → Smart App Control
  • SAC can block untrusted apps/installers. Recent builds changed SAC behavior/toggles.

Also: if you’re trying to change permissions on system folders, s that require elevation (and some things are intentionally locked down). But the key point is: this is usually policy/security, while your freezes are latency/driver.

6) Why AMD/Logitech “won’t replace Microsoft drivers”​

Just to close the loop on your original driver concern:

• Ryzen CPU showing Microsoft provider in Device Manager is normal.
• Keyboard/mouse being Microsoft HID is normal; Logitech customization comes from apps like Logi Options+ rather than a new kernel driver.
  So I would stop fighting that and focus on the drivers that actually cause stalls (chipset, Wi‑Fi/BT, USB, storage).

---

Two questions (quick) that will let me give you a very specific “do X, Y, Z” order:​

1) Are your Logitech devices connected via Bluetooth, a USB receiver, or wired?
2) In LatencyMon, what are the top 5 entries on the Drivers tab (name + highest execution time)?
If you answer those, I can narrow this down to (most likely) Wi‑Fi/BT driver vs ACPI/power vs USB hub power saving in one round.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

1) Logitech devices are connected via USB receiver
2) Top five entries on the Drivers tab

tcpip.sys, TCP/IP Driver, 0.745590
ntoskrnl.exe, NT Kernel & System, 0.713107
ndis.sys, Network Driver Interface Specification (NDIS), 0.529329
dxgkrnl.sys, DirectX Graphics Kernel, 0.486165
CLASSPNP.SYS, SCSI Class System Dll, 0.452490

Main tab on LatencyMon has the following entry

Conclusion: Your system seems to be having difficulty handling real-time audio and other tasks. You may experience drop outs, clicks, or pop's due to buffer overrun. One problem may be related to power management. Disable CPU throttling settings in Control Panel and Bios setup. Check for Bios updates.

Note: I'm running the most current Bios.

 

[ChatGPT]

Those LatencyMon results are very telling: your top offenders are network stack (tcpip.sys, ndis.sys) plus graphics kernel (dxgkrnl.sys) and some storage stack (CLASSPNP.SYS). That pattern usually means:

• The real culprit is a 3rd‑party driver underneath (Wi‑Fi/LAN filter, VPN, AV web filter, NIC driver, etc.), but LatencyMon “credits” the Windows core modules that are being delayed.
• Your USB receiver mouse/keyboard are likely victims, not the cause: when the kernel stalls for ~0.5–0.7 ms bursts (or worse in spikes), input queues can “catch up” and you’ll see the repeated key / erratic cursor symptoms.

Below is the most efficient order to attack this.

---

1) Network stack (most likely): isolate and fix tcpip.sys / ndis.sys​

A. Quick isolation test (10 minutes)​

1. Disconnect from the internet.
2. Disable your Wi‑Fi adapter:
   • Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → right‑click Disable device
3. Reboot and use the PC for 15–30 minutes (offline is fine).

If the micro-freezes drop dramatically, you’ve basically confirmed the Wi‑Fi driver/power behavior is the trigger.

B. Fix steps if Wi‑Fi is implicated​

1. Install the latest Wi‑Fi driver for your exact motherboard from ASUS (B550M‑Plus WiFi II).
2. In Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties:
   • Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
   • If there’s an Advanced tab with power-saving options, set anything like “Power Saving Mode” to Off / CAM / Maximum Performance (wording varies).

C. If you run any VPN / “network helper” software​

Anything that installs filter drivers can cause exactly this:

• VPN clients (even when “not connected” sometimes)
• 3rd party firewall suites / web protection
• bandwidth managers / traffic shapers

As a test, temporarily uninstall the VPN/security suite (not just “disable”) and re-test LatencyMon.

---

2) Power-management latency (LatencyMon explicitly hints this)​

Even with a perfect driver, aggressive power state switching can cause DPC spikes. The conservative, reversible tweaks below often help when LatencyMon flags power management. ings (desktop-safe)
Control Panel → Power Options → Change plan settings → Advanced:

• PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10% (you can try 10–20%)

Then in Device Manager (USB Root Hubs / Generic USB Hub):

• Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

These changes are co because they reduce deep sleep transitions and bus power-state flapping.

---

3) Graphics kernel (dxgkrnl.sys): reduce driver/overlay triggers​

Because dxgkrnl.sys is in your top 5, I’d do this even if the network fix helps:

1. Clean install the AMD Adrenalin driver for the 5600G:
   • Use AMD Cleanup Utility, reboot, then install the current AMD package.
2. Turn off overlays temporarily:
   • AMD overlay, Xbox Game Bar overlay, Discord overlay, etc.
3. Browser test (since you mentioned white-page glitches):
   • In Edge/Chrome: Settings → System → disable Hardware acceleration (just as a test)

If disabling hardware acceleration improves the “white screen then loads” issue, it strongly points to GPU driver/composition/acceleration interactions.

---

4) Storage stack (CLASSPNP.SYS): quick checks​

CLASSPNP.SYS showing up can happen when storage I/O stalls (or filter drivers touch the storage stack).
Do these:

1. Samsung Magician → check your NVMe firmware is current.
2. Make sure you don’t have old storage filter drivers (common culprits: old encryption tools, old backup imaging tools).
3. Run (Admin Command Prompt):

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth
sfc /scannow
chkdsk C: /scan

---

5) One question that will let me pinpoint it further​

In Device Manager → Network adapters, besides “Realtek 8852BE”, do you also have any of these?

• “TAP-Windows Adapter”, “Wintun”, “WireGuard”, “Cisco”, “Nord”, “ExpressVPN”, etc.
• Any “packet filter” / “lightweight filter” drivers listed in adapter properties

And: when you did the LatencyMon run, were you actively browsing/streaming, or did it happen even sitting idle on the desktop?
If you answer those, I’ll tell you whether to prioritize (A) Wi‑Fi driver/adapter settings vs (B) removing a filter/VPN stack vs (C) GPU clean install first.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

Item 1) of your recommendation, KB5074828 is the last update installed. KB5074105 is not installed. I'm working on the other recommendations.

 

[ChatGPT]

Got it — thanks for checking. If your last installed quality update is KB5074828 (and KB5074105 isn’t installed), then we can drop the “KB5074105 Explorer fix / SAC toggle” angle and focus on what your diagnostics already show: network + power management latency, with your USB keyboard/mouse being affected when the system stalls (not the root cause). em to KB5074828 (quickest yes/no test)
If your freezes/odd input behavior started right after KB5074828 installed, the cleanest test is to uninstall it and see if the behavior changes. This is the same “least invasive first” approach used for update-related regressions.

Uninstall KB507:**​

1. Settings → Windows Update → Update history → Uninstall updates
2. Find KB5074828 → Uninstall → reboot

Option B (command line): (run in an elevated Command Prompt)
wusa /uninstall /kb:5074828
After uninstalling, I recommend pausing updates for 7 days while you test so Windows doesn’t immediately put it back.

Note: Some cumulative updates are harder to roll back depending on how they were delivered. If KB5074828 doesn’t appear in “Uninstall updates” or won’t uninstall, tell me what you see there and we’ll use the next-best isolation steps.

2) While you test: the #1 isolation sencyMon top drivers​

Since your LatencyMon top entries are tcpip.sys and ndis.sys (network stack) plus dxgkrnl.sys (graphics kernel), the fastest hardware isolation test is:

Temporarily disable the Wi‑Fi adapter (10–20 minutes)​

1. Device Manager → Network adapters
2. Right-click Realtek 8852BE → Disable device
3. Reboot
4. Use the PC offline for 15–30 minutes and see if the 1–2 second stalls + “stuck key” behavior improves

If disabling Wi‑Fi improves things noticeably, the next move is updating the Wi‑Fi/BT drivers from ASUS and turning off NIC power-saving features (because LatencyMon’s own conclusion is pointing at power management).

3) Power-management tweaks (safe/reversible) that often fi​

Even if your BIOS is current, Windows power features can still trigger latency spikes (especially with USB + Wi‑Fi involved). These are the exact “reversible” tweaks that commonly help DPC/power stalls:

1. Control Panel → Power Options → (your active plan) → Change plan settings → Axpress → Link State Power Management: Off
   • USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
   • Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): set to 10%
2. Device Manager → open each USB Root Hub / Generic USB Hub → Properties → Power Management
   • Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

4) One thing to confirm (so we don’t chase the wrong “network”)​

When tcpip.sys / ndis.sys are on top, it’s often not “Windows TCP/IP” itself, but a filter driver underneath (VPN, “web protection” from antivirus, traffic shapers, etc.).
Please reply with:

• What antivirus/security suite are you running (Defender only, or something else)?
• Do you have any VPN installed (even if you don’t use it)?

5) About the “permissions blocked though I’m admin”​

That symptom is commonly caused by Windows Security controls (not your admin status). When you get a chance, check these two items:

• Windows Security → Virus & threat protection → Ransomware protection → Controlled folder access
• W& browser control → Smart App Control

If you tell me the exact action you were trying to do (and the exact message), I can tell you which feature is blocking it.

---

What I need back from you (so we can finish this efficiently)​

1) Did uninstalling KB5074828 change anything?
2) Did disabling the Realtek 8852BE Wi‑Fi reduce the freezes/stuck-key behavior?
3) What antivirus/VPN (if any) is installed?
With those three answers, we’ll know whether you’re dealing with an update regression, a Realtek Wi‑Fi driver/power issue, or a filter driver conflict—and the fix becomes very direct.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

It's going to take some time for me to do your latest recommendations. I'm getting in way over my head here.

 

[ChatGPT]

You’re not over your head — this is the kind of problem that turns into a rabbit hole if you try to fix everything at once. Let’s simplify it to one small, safe test at a time, and I’ll tell you exactly what to do next based on the result.
Below is the single easiest test that gives us the most information (and it’s fully reversible).

---

Step 0 (optional but recommended): Create a Restore Point​

1. Click Start
2. Type Create a restore point
3. Open it → System Protection tab
4. Click Create… → name it “Before latency testing”

---

Step 1 (the one test I want you to do first): Disable Wi‑Fi temporarily​

Your LatencyMon results point strongly at the network stack (tcpip.sys, ndis.sys). That often means the Wi‑Fi driver (or something attached to networking) is triggering the stalls.

How to do it​

1. Right‑click Start → Device Manager
2. Expand Network adapters
3. Find Realtek 8852BE Wireless LAN WiFi 6 PCIe NIC
4. Right‑click it → Disable device
5. Restart the PC

What to test​

After reboot, don’t do anything fancy:

• Use the PC for 10–15 minutes (you can be offline)
• Type in Notepad, browse local files, open a couple apps
• Watch for the 1–2 second freezes and the “stuck key” behavior

Tell me the result (just pick one)​

A) “Freezes are basically gone / much better”
B) “No real change”
C) “Worse” (unlikely, but possible)
To undo it: go back to Device Manager → right‑click the same adapter → Enable device.

---

Why I’m starting here​

Because it’s:

• Low risk
• Easy to reverse
• Gives a clear yes/no answer that determines whether we focus on Wi‑Fi driver/settings/VPN/security filtering or move on to graphics/storage/power next.

---

When you’re ready, reply with A / B / C after that Wi‑Fi-disable test, and I’ll give you the next single step (not a long list).

 

[Carolinaboy79]

Before I get into installing ASUS drivers, I've tried this before and Windows won't let me do it. I get the message that drivers downloaded and installed but when I check, it's still Windows drivers installed.

 

[ChatGPT]

Windows will often keep showing “Microsoft” as the Driver Provider (especially for “class” drivers), even when you’ve installed the vendor’s package. So the key is: don’t judge it only by the Provider name—check the Driver Version/Date and (best of all) the Driver Details files.
That said, if Windows is truly refusing to switch the Realtek Wi‑Fi driver, here’s the simplest way to force the ASUS/Realtek INF into place.

---

1) First confirm what’s “still Windows” (2 checks)​

Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties → Driver tab
Please look at:

• Driver Date
• Driver Version

Then click Driver Details:

• If you see a Realtek .sys driver file (often starting with rt / rtw / rtux / similar), then you likely are using the Realtek driver even if the Provider says Microsoft.
• If it’s clearly a very old version/date compared to ASUS, then you’re not getting the update applied.

If you paste the Driver Version + Driver Date you see there, I can tell you immediately whether it actually updated.

---

2) Force-install the ASUS Wi‑Fi driver via “Have Disk” (most reliable)​

This bypasses the “installer said it worked but nothing changed” situation.

1. Download the Wi‑Fi driver for ASUS B550M‑Plus WiFi II from ASUS Support.
2. If it’s a ZIP, extract it (right‑click → Extract all).
3. Open Device Manager
4. Network adapters → right‑click Realtek 8852BE → Update driver
5. Choose Browse my computer for drivers
6. Choose Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer
7. Click Have Disk…
8. Browse to the extracted ASUS driver folder and select the .inf file (it may be in a subfolder)
9. Next → Finish → Reboot

If Windows says “the best driver is already installed”, that usually means Windows considers its current driver a better match unless you do the “Have Disk” method pointing directly at the INF.

---

3) Stop Windows from instantly swapping it back (common gotcha)​

Even if you install the ASUS driver correctly, Windows Update can replace it later.
To test without Windows interfering:

1. Disconnect from the internet (turn off Wi‑Fi / unplug Ethernet)
2. Install the driver (step 2 above)
3. Reboot
4. Re-check Driver Version/Date

If it only “reverts” after you reconnect to the internet, then we’ll apply the Windows Update driver-blocking setting next.

---

4) If it still won’t take: clean removal then reinstall​

1. Device Manager → Realtek 8852BE → Uninstall device
2. Important: check “Attempt to remove the driver for this device” / “Delete the driver software for this device” (wording varies)
3. Reboot
4. Install using Have Disk again

---

Quick question (so I don’t send you down the wrong path)​

When you tried the ASUS driver before, was it for:

• Realtek 8852BE Wi‑Fi, or
• the Logitech receiver/keyboard/mouse, or
• AMD chipset/graphics?

And what Driver Version + Driver Date does Device Manager show right now for the Realtek 8852BE?
If you answer just those two things, I’ll tell you the exact next step for your case, and we’ll keep it one step at a time.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

I disabled Realtek 8852BE and rebooted. Erratic behavior of mouse wasn't observed nor erratic behavior of keyboard keys. Realtek 8852BE's driver is a Realtek Corp driver version 6001.15.157.0. The problem I experienced earlier of not being able to install ASUS, AMD, or Logitech drivers seems to have corrected itself. But issue was with AMD USB 3.10 eXtensible Host Controller 1.10 Microsoft which had an outdated driver. The current driver is still Microsoft but is dated 1-26-2026. Erratic behavior of mouse has returned after enabling Realtek 8852BE WiFi.

 

[ChatGPT]

That’s excellent troubleshooting progress — you just proved (pretty cleanly) that the Realtek 8852BE Wi‑Fi being enabled is the trigger, and the mouse/keyboard weirdness is a side effect of that (either latency spikes from the network driver stack, or 2.4 GHz radio interference), because the behavior goes away when the adapter is disabled and returns when re-enabled. rosoft” as the provider for AMD USB 3.10 eXtensible Host Controller can be normal. What matters is Driver Date/Version; if it’s now dated 1‑26‑2026**, it did get updated even if the provider still says Microsoft.
Below are the least-overwhelming next steps, in the best order.

---

1) Check if you’re on 2.4 GHz Wi‑Fi (this matters a lot with Logitech receivers)​

If your Wi‑Fi is connected on 2.4 GHz, it can interfere with Logitech’s 2.4 GHz receiver and/or increase system interrupt load.
Open Command Prompt and run:
netsh wlan show interfaces
Look for Radio type / Band / Channel.

If you are on 2.4 GHz:​

• If your router has a separate 5G Wi‑Fi name (SSID), connect to that instead.
• If it’s one combined Wi‑Fi name, see if your router has a setting like “prefer 5 GHz” / band steering.

Goal: get your PC onto 5 GHz (or use Ethernet) and see if the erratic mouse/keyboard disappears.

---

2) Do the “easy physical fix” that often solves Logitech receiver issues​

Even if the root cause is the Wi‑Fi card, this can dramatically reduce symptoms:

• Plug the Logitech receiver into a rear USB 2.0 port (not a front port, not a USB 3.x hub).
• If you can, use a short USB 2.0 extension cable so the receiver sits on the desk a foot or two away from the PC.

Reason: USB 3.x ports/cables and internal PC noise can be nasty around 2.4 GHz, and moving the receiver often stabilizes it immediately.

---

3) Lock down Wi‑Fi power saving + set Wi‑Fi to “performance”​

This addresses the “power management” hint LatencyMon gave you and is a common fix path for stutter/latency spikes.

A) Realtek adapce Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties:​

• Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

B) Windows power plan tweaks (reversible)​

Control Panel → Power Options → Change plan settings → Advanced

• PCI Express → Link State Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10%

(These are the same “safe, reversible” settings that often reduce stalls caused by aggressive power-state transitions.)

---

4) Driver version: you’re already now try ASUS’s package anyway​

You’re already on a Realtek Corp driver (6001.15.157.0), which is good — it means you’re not stuck on Microsoft’s generic one.
Still, if ASUS offers a newer Wi‑Fi driver for your B550M‑Plus WiFi II, it’s worth installing it because OEM packages sometimes include fixes/tuning for that exact board.
If the ASUS installer claims success but nothing changes, the “Have Disk” method I described earlier forces the INF, but since you said installs are working normally again, you may not need that now.

---

5) One quick question so I can tell which branch we’re in (interference vs latency)​

When the erratic behavior returns after enabling Wi‑Fi, does it happen:
A) immediately, even if you’re not doing anything online
or
B) mostly when browsing/streaming/downloading

• A points more to 2.4 GHz interference / receiver placement
• B points more to network-driver latency spikes / power saving / filter drivers

Reply with A or B, and tell me whether your router supports 5 GHz. After that, I’ll give you just the next single step based on your answer (no big list).

 

[Carolinaboy79]

B

As for the router, it was provided by HomeTelecom and so far I've been unable to access router settings to determine if it support's 5 Ghz.

 

[ChatGPT]

“B” (mostly when browsing/streaming/downloading) strongly points to Wi‑Fi driver/network stack latency (NDIS/TCPIP) rather than the Logitech receiver itself. The receiver is just where you notice it first when Windows stalls.
Let’s do one next step that doesn’t require router access:

Step 1: Check whether you’re actually on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz (from Windows)​

Even if you can’t get into the router, Windows can tell us what band you’re connected on.

1. Open Command Prompt (not PowerShell is fine too)
2. Run:

netsh wlan show interfaces

1. Look for either:
   • Band (2.4 GHz / 5 GHz), or
   • Channel (channels 1–11 are almost always 2.4 GHz; higher channels like 36/40/44/149 etc. are 5 GHz), or
   • Radio type (not as definitive, but helpful)

Reply back with the lines for: SSID, Radio type, Channel, and anything that says Band or Receive rate/Transmit rate.

---

Why this matters even for “B”​

If you’re on 2.4 GHz, heavy traffic can make interference/latency much more noticeable (and 2.4 GHz also overlaps with Logitech’s receiver). If we confirm you’re on 2.4 GHz, the best “no-driver-tweaks” fix is getting you onto 5 GHz (often the router supports it, but the 5 GHz SSID may be hidden behind a different network name or band-steering).

---

If your output shows you’re on 2.4 GHz (quick workaround)​

Since it’s a Home Telecom router you can’t access:

• Check your Wi‑Fi list for a second network name like …-5G / …-5GHz
• If there’s only one SSID, you may need Home Telecom support to confirm dual-band and either enable the 5 GHz SSID or tell you the name/password for it.

---

After you paste that netsh output, I’ll give you the single best next move (either: switch to 5 GHz / adjust a specific Realtek adapter setting / or test for a VPN/antivirus network filter).

 

[Carolinaboy79]

As best I can determine, the router is set on 2.4 GHz. I have no idea how to change it. Plus, I've developed a new problem. When I access the internet, the mouse speed slows down to a crawl. When I change back to desktop, the mouse arrow reacts normally.

 

[ChatGPT]

If you’re on 2.4 GHz and the problem happens mainly during browsing/streaming, what you’re describing fits network-driver latency / Wi‑Fi contention very well: Windows “pauses” in tiny bursts, and the mouse pointer appears to slow to a crawl (because the whole UI is momentarily not getting CPU time). It’s usually not the mouse setting itself.
Let’s keep this to a couple of very simple, high-value tests.

---

1) Fastest confirmation: test with Ethernet (even temporarily)​

If you can run an Ethernet cable to the router (just for 10 minutes):

1. Disable Wi‑Fi (Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Disable)
2. Plug in Ethernet
3. Browse/stream the same way that triggers the slow mouse

If the mouse stays normal on Ethernet, we’ve confirmed the Realtek Wi‑Fi / 2.4 GHz path is the trigger (not Logitech).
If you can’t do Ethernet, tell me that and we’ll use the next test.

---

2) Reduce Wi‑Fi power saving (very common cause)​

With Wi‑Fi enabled:

1. Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties
2. Power Management tab:
   • Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
3. If there’s an Advanced tab, set anything like:
   • Power Saving Mode = Off / Maximum Performance
   • Transmit Power = Highest (if available)

Reboot and re-test internet browsing.

---

3) Rule out a browser GPU/acceleration interaction (quick toggle)​

Because you previously saw dxgkrnl.sys in LatencyMon’s top list, do this quick A/B test:

Microsoft Edge​

Edge → Settings → System and performance → turn off “Use hardware acceleration when available” → restart Edge.
Then browse again and see if the “mouse crawls” symptom changes.

---

4) About “router is 2.4 GHz — I don’t know how to change it”​

Many ISP-provided routers are dual-band, but the 5 GHz network may either:

• show up as a second SSID name (often ends with -5G), or
• be “band-steered” under one name (and you can’t control it without admin access), or
• be locked down by the ISP.

Two practical options:

• Look at the sticker on the router for a model number; if you tell me the model, I can tell you what’s typical for that unit (dual-band or not).
• Call Home Telecom and ask: “Can you enable a 5 GHz SSID or tell me the 5 GHz network name/password?”

---

One question that will narrow it immediately​

When the mouse slows down in the browser, open Task Manager (Ctrl+Shift+Esc) → Processes tab and tell me the top 3 items by CPU (and whether “System” is high).
That will tell us whether this is:

• Wi‑Fi driver / interrupts (often shows as System activity), or
• the browser/GPU pipeline itself.

If you answer:
1) Can you test Ethernet (yes/no)?
2) What’s the router model (from the sticker)?
3) Top CPU processes when it happens?
…I’ll give you the single next step with the highest chance of fixing it.

 

[Carolinaboy79]

No, I can't test Ethernet. Information from sticker on router: Calix GigaSpire Blast, model u6tGS5229E, and another model #100-05921 10. Top CPU processes listed in task manager; 1) AMD Crash Defender Service, 2) AMD External Events Client Module, 3) AMD External Events Service Module, 4) AMD Software Command Line Interface, and 5) AMD Software Host Application. NOTE: when accessing task manager (with browser still open), the mouse movement returns to normal. Also, mouse movement is normal in Safe Mode with Networking. Also, this problem started on 2/5/2026 or 1/4/2026. Mouse movement was normal prior to these dates. Which is making me think a recent Windows update might be the culprit.

 

[ChatGPT]

You just gave two high-value clues:
1) Safe Mode with Networking = normal mouse
2) Normal mode + internet activity = mouse crawls, and it clears as soon as Task Manager is in the foreground.
That strongly suggests latency spikes from a driver/service that does not load in Safe Mode, and your earlier tests already showed the Realtek 8852BE Wi‑Fi path is involved (problem disappears when Wi‑Fi is disabled and returns when re-enabled). *Calix GigaSpire BLAST GS5229E is a simultaneous dual‑band 2.4 GHz + 5 GHz Wi‑Fi 6 device*, so 5 GHz should* be available—though some ISPs lock down advanced settings.
Below is the simplest “do this, then that” plan that keeps risk low.

---

Step 1 (biggest win): Try to get your PC onto 5 GHz without guessing router settings​

Even if you can’t “find the router login,” Windows can tell you the router’s management IP.

1. Open Command Prompt and run:
   ipconfig
2. Write down the Default Gateway (example: 192.168.1.1).
3. Open your browser and go to:
   • http://<Default Gateway> (example: [url]http://192.168.1.1[/url])
4. Look on the router sticker for admin/user + password. Many Calix units ship with credentials on the label.

If you can log in​

You’re looking for something like Wi‑Fi / Wireless and then:

• A setting to create a Secondary Network that is 5 GHz only, or
• A “band steering / unified SSID” option plus a way to prefer 5 GHz.

If you cannot log in or there are no options:

• That often means the ISP controls it from their side (“cloud managed”). People frequently have to call the ISP to split bands / change radio settings on GigaSpire BLAST units.
  In that case, call Home Telecom and ask (very specifically):
  

  “Please enable a separate 5 GHz SSID (or set my device to prefer 5 GHz), because my Windows PC has severe input lag on 2.4 GHz.”

---

Step 2 (Windows-side fix): stop Wi‑Fi powero performance​

These settings are safe and reversible and directly target what LatencyMon warned about (“power management”) and what we’ve been seeing with the Realtek adapter.

A) Realtek adapter power​

Device Manager → Network adapters → Realtek 8852BE → Properties:

• Power Management tab: uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power

B) Windows power plan tweaks (desktop-safe)​

Control Panel → Power Options → (active plan) → Change plan settings → Advanced:

• PCI Power Management: Off
• USB settings → USB selective suspend: Disabled
• Processor power management → Minimum processor state (Plugged in): 10%

Reboot and retest browsing.

---

Step 3 (because Safe Mode is fine): do a Clean Boot test to find the “normal-mode” culprit​

Since Safe Mode with Networking is clean, a Clean Boot is the closest “normal Windows” test that still strips out non-Microsoft services:

1. Press Win+R, type msconfig
2. Services tab → check Hide all Microsoft services → click Disable all
3. Startup tab → Open Task Manager → disable all Startup items
4. Reboot and test browsing

If the mouse stays normal in a Clean Boot, we know for sure it’s a 3rd-party service/driver layer.

About those AMD processes you saw​

The AMD items you listed (Crash Defender / External Events / AMD host app) being high when the problem happens is a hint, but not proof. In Safe Mode those components often aren’t active, which matches your observation. After the Clean Boot test, we can decide whether you should:

• Switch AMD Adrenalin to a driver-only/minimal install, or
• Clean reinstall AMD graphics drivers.

---

Step 4 (your suspicion about a Windows update): check dates and uninstall the likely KB only if timing matches​

You mentioned this started on 02/05/2026 or 01/04/2026 (those are very different). Since today is February 6, 2026, please do this:
Settings → Windows Update → Update history → look for anything installed on:

• January 4, 2026, and/or
• February 5, 2026

If the timing lines up with KB5074828 (the one you previously identified as “last installed”), then uninstalling it is a reasonable test as long as you’re comfortable rebooting and temporarily pausing updates. (If you want, tell me exactly what KBs installed on 02/05/2026 and I’ll tell you which is the best candidate to test first.)

---

Two quick questions (so I give the next single step, not a long list)​

1) When you run ipconfig, what is your Default Gateway address?
2) In Device Manager → Realtek 8852BE → Properties, do you have an Advanced tab with an option like Preferred Band (2.4/5 GHz) or Transmit Power?
If you paste those two details, I’ll tell you exactly what to click next to force 5 GHz preference (if the driver supports it) and reduce the browsing-triggered stalls.