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Update failed: Cumulative Update for Windows 11, version 25H2 for x64-based Systems (KB5070773) (26200.6901)

Option A:

PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> schtasks /Create /RU "SYSTEM" /SC ONSTART /TN "RestartNetworkOnBoot" /TR "powershell -NoProfile -WindowStyle Hidden -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File \"C:\Windows\Temp\RestartNetworkOnBoot.ps1\"" /F
>>
SUCCESS: The scheduled task "RestartNetworkOnBoot" has successfully been created.
PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> schtasks /Query /TN "RestartNetworkOnBoot"

Folder: \
TaskName Next Run Time Status
======================================== ====================== ===============
RestartNetworkOnBoot N/A Ready
PS C:\WINDOWS\system32>
 

Nice — the task was created successfully. Good move.
What to do next
1) Cold‑boot test
  • Do a full cold power‑off (shutdown, wait ~10s, then power on).
  • Watch whether networking comes up automatically without you rebooting again.
  • Try this 2–3 times to be sure.
2) If the cold‑boot network now works (good result)
  • Keep the scheduled task in place for a few days until you’re confident things are stable.
  • If you want to remove the workaround later, I’ll show the single command to delete the task and remove the script.
3) If the cold‑boot problem still occurs (still needs a reboot)
  • Capture the task run history and the boot‑time network events and paste them here:
    • Show the scheduled task verbose info:
      schtasks /Query /TN "RestartNetworkOnBoot" /V
    • Get recent System events around boot (after a failed cold boot):
      Get-WinEvent -FilterHashtable @{LogName='System'; StartTime=(Get-Date).AddMinutes(-30)} | Where-Object { $_.ProviderName -match 'NDIS|Realtek|NetAdapter|Tcpip|Dhcp|NlaSvc' } | Select TimeCreated, ProviderName, Id, Message -First 80
  • I’ll read those and give the single next action (tweak BIOS power settings, disable specific adapter energy features, or try a different firmware/driver approach).
How to remove the scheduled‑task workaround (one command each)
  • Delete the scheduled task:
    schtasks /Delete /TN "RestartNetworkOnBoot" /F
  • Remove the script:
    Remove-Item 'C:\Windows\Temp\RestartNetworkOnBoot.ps1' -Force
(If you want I can provide a single combined line to clean both up later.)
Notes & extra steps you can try later (if needed)
  • If the workaround works but you want a permanent clean fix, the usual next steps are:
    • Disable Green Ethernet / Gigabit‑Lite / Advanced EEE in the adapter advanced properties (reversible).
    • Check/disable PCIe ASPM or deep sleep in BIOS (temporary test).
    • If the NIC firmware/driver still misbehaves on cold boot, test with another physical NIC or try a different Realtek driver build (clean uninstall + vendor installer).
I’ll wait for your cold‑boot test result. Tell me “works” or “still fails” and paste the task info / event logs if it still fails — I’ll give the single next action.
 

Still fails:

Windows PowerShell Copyright (C) Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. Install the latest PowerShell for new features and improvements! Installing PowerShell on Windows - PowerShell PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> schtasks /Query /TN "RestartNetworkOnBoot" /V Folder: \ HostName TaskName Next Run Time Status Logon Mode Last Run Time Last Result Author Task To Run Start In Comment Scheduled Task State Idle Time Power Management Run As User Delete Task If Not Rescheduled Stop Task If Runs X Hours and X Mins Schedule Schedule Type Start Time Start Date End Date Days Months Repeat: Every Repeat: Until: Time Repeat: Until: Duration Repeat: Stop If Still Running ================ ======================================== ====================== =============== ======================= ====================== ============ ================ ================================================== ======================================== ================================================================================ ====================== ======================================== ================================================ ======================================== ============================== ======================================== ================================================================================ ============================ ============ ========== ========== =========================================== =========================================== ======================== ==================== ============================== =================================== PATRE-DESKTOP RestartNetworkOnBoot N/A Ready Interactive/Background 24/10/2025 17:26:02 -196608 PATRE-DESKTOP\Ru powershell -NoProfile -WindowStyle Hidden -Executi N/A N/A Enabled Disabled Stop On Battery Mode, No Start On Batteries SYSTEM Disabled 72:00:00 Scheduling data is not available in this format. At system start up N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Get-WinEvent -FilterHashtable @{LogName='System'; StartTime=(Get-Date).AddMinutes(-30)} | Where-Object { $_.ProviderName -match 'NDIS|Realtek|NetAdapter|Tcpip|Dhcp|NlaSvc' } | Select TimeCreated, ProviderName, Id, Message -First 80 TimeCreated ProviderName Id Message ----------- ------------ -- ------- 24/10/2025 17:26:03 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51046 DHCPv6 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:26:03 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:26:03 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50103 DHCPv4 client registered for shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:26:03 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:25:18 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50037 DHCPv4 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:25:18 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50106 DHCPv4 is waiting on DHCPv6 service to stop 24/10/2025 17:25:18 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51047 DHCPv6 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:25:18 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50105 DHCPv4 client ProcessDHCPRequestForever received TERMIN... 24/10/2025 17:25:18 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50104 DHCPv4 client received shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:24:46 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51046 DHCPv6 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:24:46 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:24:46 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50103 DHCPv4 client registered for shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:24:46 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50037 DHCPv4 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51057 DHCPv6 client service stop is almost done.DHCP Context ... 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51047 DHCPv6 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50106 DHCPv4 is waiting on DHCPv6 service to stop 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50105 DHCPv4 client ProcessDHCPRequestForever received TERMIN... 24/10/2025 17:24:05 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50104 DHCPv4 client received shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:11:16 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51046 DHCPv6 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:11:16 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:11:16 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50103 DHCPv4 client registered for shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:11:16 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:10:31 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50037 DHCPv4 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:10:31 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50106 DHCPv4 is waiting on DHCPv6 service to stop 24/10/2025 17:10:31 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51047 DHCPv6 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:10:31 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50105 DHCPv4 client ProcessDHCPRequestForever received TERMIN... 24/10/2025 17:10:31 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50104 DHCPv4 client received shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:10:01 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51046 DHCPv6 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:10:01 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:10:01 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50103 DHCPv4 client registered for shutdown notification 24/10/2025 17:10:01 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50037 DHCPv4 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50106 DHCPv4 is waiting on DHCPv6 service to stop 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51057 DHCPv6 client service stop is almost done.DHCP Context ... 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51047 DHCPv6 client service is stopped. ShutDown Flag value is 1 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50105 DHCPv4 client ProcessDHCPRequestForever received TERMIN... 24/10/2025 17:09:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50104 DHCPv4 client received shutdown notification 24/10/2025 16:58:05 Microsoft-Windows-DHCPv6-Client 51046 DHCPv6 client service is started 24/10/2025 16:58:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started 24/10/2025 16:58:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50103 DHCPv4 client registered for shutdown notification 24/10/2025 16:58:04 Microsoft-Windows-Dhcp-Client 50036 DHCPv4 client service is started PS C:\WINDOWS\system32>
 

Thanks — that makes the problem clear (works after a restart, fails on cold boot). That’s exactly the classic service/initialization race or firmware power‑timing issue. We’ll try a couple of safe, high‑value fixes in order (least invasive first). Tell me which one you want to try next and I’ll give the single command or walk you step‑by‑step.
Recommended next steps (pick one to try now)
1) Make Windows wait for the network during boot (high chance to fix)
  • Enable the Group Policy “Always wait for the network at computer startup and logon”. This forces Windows to pause logon until the NIC/link is up and the network stack is ready.
    • Run gpedit.msc → Computer Configuration → Administrative Templates → System → Logon → Enable “Always wait for the network at computer startup and logon”.
  • Reboot from cold and test.
    Reason: this addresses the race condition directly and is non‑destructive.
2) Disable adapter energy features that can delay link at cold boot (safe, reversible)
  • Disable Green Ethernet, Gigabit Lite, Advanced EEE (and any other power-saving features). These can leave the NIC in a low‑power state on cold start.
  • If you want me to give the exact PowerShell lines to set those advanced properties for the “Ethernet” adapter now, say “Disable green features” and I’ll provide them (they’re reversible).
3) BIOS power/PCIe settings (firmware side — you must reboot into BIOS)
  • In the motherboard firmware look for and temporarily disable:
    • PCIe ASPM / Link State Power Management (set to Disabled)
    • Any “ErP”, “ERP Ready”, or deep sleep / Sx power settings (disable for testing)
    • Any PCIe or device power savings (set PCIe to max performance)
  • Save and cold‑boot test.
    Reason: If the NIC receives limited power on cold boot the driver may be too early/late to initialize.
4) If you prefer a non‑intrusive workaround (you already did this)
  • Keep the scheduled task that restarts network services after ~30s at startup. It’s harmless and reversible. We can refine or remove it later when a clean fix is found.
5) Hardware isolation (if the above fail)
  • Test the same cable/port with a second NIC (USB or another PC) to rule out the switch/cable being flaky only on cold power. If another NIC has the same cold‑boot issue, suspect network gear. If the other NIC works from cold, suspect Realtek hardware/driver.
Which would you like to do now?
  • “Enable wait-for-network policy” — I’ll give the exact gpedit steps (or a registry method if you prefer).
  • “Disable green features” — I’ll post the exact PowerShell commands to disable EEE, Green Ethernet, Gigabit Lite (one shot) and you can run them now.
  • “Check BIOS” — I’ll list the exact firmware settings to look for and how to change them (you’ll need to reboot to access BIOS).
  • “Keep scheduled task” — leave as is and we can revisit later.
  • “Hardware test” — you’ll test another NIC / cable and report back.
If you pick “Disable green features”, I’ll post the single block of Set‑NetAdapterAdvancedProperty commands to run as Administrator. If you pick the Group Policy option I’ll give the exact navigation or the registry policy change if you prefer.
 

I have an alternative suggestion. How about I disable the Realtek NIC. Enable the motherboard onboard ethernet and see if issue exists with that?
 

That’s a good, fast isolation test — swapping to the onboard NIC will tell us whether the problem is Realtek hardware/driver related or something in the system/switch/cable. Keep it simple and reversible; below are safe, exact steps (GUI + PowerShell). Do whichever fits you (GUI is safest if you prefer), then cold‑boot and test. I’ll wait for your results.
Quick plan
1) Check the name(s) of both adapters.
2) Disable the Realtek adapter.
3) Enable the onboard adapter (or enable it in BIOS if it’s disabled).
4) Make sure the onboard adapter has a driver and gets an IP.
5) Cold‑boot test 2–3 times and report results.
Exact commands (run as Administrator)
A — Identify adapters (see their names)
Get-NetAdapter | Format-Table Name,InterfaceDescription,Status,MediaConnectionState,LinkSpeed -AutoSize
Note the Name for the Realtek adapter (probably “Ethernet”) and the onboard adapter (may be “Ethernet 2” or contain the vendor name).
B — Disable Realtek adapter
Replace "Ethernet" with the Name you saw for Realtek:
Disable-NetAdapter -Name "Ethernet" -Confirm:$false
C — Enable the onboard adapter
Replace "Ethernet 2" with the onboard adapter Name you found in step A:
Enable-NetAdapter -Name "Ethernet 2"
D — If the onboard adapter is not listed or is “Not Present”
  • Reboot and enter BIOS/UEFI and ensure the onboard LAN is Enabled (often under Peripherals / Onboard Devices / Integrated LAN). Save & exit, then boot and re-run step A.
  • After enabling in BIOS, Windows should detect it automatically. If it needs a driver, install the motherboard vendor LAN driver.
E — Check status, link, and IP
Get-NetAdapter -Name "Ethernet 2" | Format-List Name,Status,MediaConnectionState,LinkSpeed,MacAddress
Get-NetIPConfiguration -InterfaceAlias "Ethernet 2" | Format-List
F — If the onboard adapter needs a driver
  • Install vendor driver or let Windows Update install it (Device Manager → Update driver → Search automatically). Or use pnputil to add an .inf package if you have it.
G — Cold‑boot test
  • Perform a full shutdown (not restart), wait ~10s, power on. After it boots:
    • Check link: Get-NetAdapter -Name "Ethernet 2" ...
    • Ping the gateway: ping 192.168.0.1 (or your gateway IP)
    • If it works from cold, the Realtek device/driver was likely the culprit.
H — To re-enable Realtek later (revert)
Enable-NetAdapter -Name "Ethernet"
(or re-enable in Device Manager / BIOS as needed)
If you prefer GUI
  • Device Manager → Network adapters → right‑click Realtek → Disable device.
  • If the onboard adapter is present → right‑click it → Enable device (or update driver).
  • If the onboard adapter is missing, reboot to BIOS and enable Onboard LAN.
What to report back
  • Output from Get-NetAdapter after you switch (paste the lines for both adapters).
  • Result of cold‑boot test (works from cold? yes/no).
  • Any relevant System log lines if it still fails (I can prompt for those if needed).
If onboard works from cold
  • That points to the Realtek NIC/driver or its interaction with firmware (we’ll then try driver rollback, different Realtek driver builds, or keep using onboard if acceptable).
If onboard also fails on cold
  • That points to system firmware, PSU, switch/cable or the environment — next step will be BIOS power settings and hardware isolation.
Go ahead and switch to onboard now (or tell me if you want me to walk you through BIOS steps) — I’ll wait for the Get‑NetAdapter output and the cold‑boot result.
 

With onboard NIC the issue does not exist at all. I've done 4 cold boots and its perfect everytime.

Both NICs are Realtek so refer to the onboard as Realtek and PCIe card which is problematic a Realtek 2.5Gbe

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Thanks — that’s a clear result and it narrows the root cause: the onboard Realtek works reliably from cold boot, the PCIe Realtek 2.5Gb card does not. That strongly points to the PCIe card (hardware/driver/slot/power) rather than Windows or the switch/cable.
Short summary
  • Onboard Realtek NIC: works perfectly on cold boot (4 tests).
  • PCIe Realtek 2.5Gb NIC: works after a reboot but fails on cold boot. You forced 1 Gbps and used the Realtek installer — behaviour unchanged. The scheduled-task workaround didn’t fix the cold‑boot case.
Recommended next steps (prioritised, least invasive first)
Pick what you want to try next and I’ll give the single exact command/steps for it.
1) Try the PCIe card in a different PCIe slot (quick hardware isolation)
  • Purpose: rules out a slot power/initialisation problem on the motherboard. If the card works reliably in another slot, the original slot or its BIOS settings are suspect.
  • What to do: power down, move the card to another appropriate PCIe x4/x8/x16 slot, cold boot and test.
2) Test the PCIe card in another computer (best hardware isolation)
  • Purpose: determines whether the card itself consistently fails on cold boot or whether it’s the combination with your motherboard/BIOS/PSU.
  • What to do: install the card in a different PC, cold boot several times. If the other PC shows the same cold‑boot failure, the card is likely faulty (RMA/replacement). If the other PC boots fine, the problem is the original motherboard/slot/firmware/power.
3) Try a clean rollback to the older driver you had (safe, software)
  • Purpose: some Realtek driver updates introduce regressions; rolling back may remove cold‑boot issue.
  • What to do: fully remove current Realtek packages from the driverstore and reinstall the earlier working driver (I can give the exact pnputil sequence). I’ll do that only if you want to try a software-only approach next.
4) Disable energy‑saving adapter features (if not already disabled)
  • Purpose: card power‑saving (Green Ethernet, Gigabit Lite, EEE) can leave the NIC uninitialised on cold boot. You already tried some settings, but we can ensure all relevant options are disabled for the PCIe card.
  • What to do: I can give the Set‑NetAdapterAdvancedProperty commands to disable Green Ethernet, Gigabit Lite, Advanced EEE and others.
5) BIOS/firmware checks and changes (moderate)
  • Purpose: some motherboards power PCIe slots later or allow PCIe ASPM/low‑power modes that cause cold‑boot failures. Also older BIOS may have quirks with new 2.5G cards.
  • What to do: enter BIOS and (temporarily) disable PCIe ASPM / Link State Power Management, disable “ErP” / deep sleep settings, set PCIe power/performance to max. Also check for a BIOS update from Gigabyte (official support page for your board revision). I can give the specific BIOS options to look for. Do this only if you’re comfortable changing firmware settings.
6) PSU / power sequencing (hardware)
  • Purpose: if the PSU doesn’t provide stable rail power immediately on a cold start, some PCIe cards may not power up right away and fail to initialize.
  • What to do: try removing other non‑essential PCIe devices or rearranging components, or test with a different PSU if available. This is more intrusive.
7) If you prefer a permanent workaround
  • Use the onboard NIC for daily operation and either RMA/replace the PCIe 2.5Gb card later or keep the scheduled task workaround in place until you replace it. That’s pragmatic if the onboard port meets your needs.
Which path do you want to try now?
  • “Move PCIe card to another slot” — I’ll wait while you do it and you report results.
  • “Test PCIe card in another PC” — you can try and tell me what happened.
  • “Rollback driver (pnputil) to older version” — I’ll give the exact commands to uninstall driver packages and install the previous driver INF/installer.
  • “Disable adapter green features” — I’ll give the one‑line Set‑NetAdapterAdvancedProperty block to run now.
  • “Check BIOS options” — I’ll list the BIOS settings to change and what to look for.
  • “Keep onboard and plan to replace card” — I’ll note next steps for replacement options and how to prepare an RMA.
Pick one and I’ll provide the single precise step. If you prefer, we can do the hardware isolation (slot or other PC) first — that’s the most diagnostic.
 

I can't test it in another PC. The only other desktop machine I have is the HP Proliant Microserver Gen8. It would need the half bracket. I'm pretty sure I threw the box away which had it when I bought it. I can only test in a different PCIe slot in this machine but that is not a permanent solution a I would have to remove another PCIe card for the purposes of testing. I don't have a spare slot.
 

Thanks — that’s very useful. Given the onboard Realtek works reliably on cold boot and the PCIe Realtek 2.5Gb card only works after a reboot, this is almost certainly a hardware/initialisation issue specific to that PCIe card or the combination of card + slot/firmware. Because you don’t have a spare machine/slot for long‑term testing, we have three practical paths (least work → most reliable):
Summary of options
  • A — Try a clean driver reinstall (software-first, low effort). Sometimes driver packaging leaves fragments that cause cold‑boot failures.
  • B — Tweak BIOS power/PCIe settings and adapter power features (firmware / power sequencing). This can fix slot initialisation timing without replacing hardware.
  • C — Replace the PCIe card (hardware). If A+B fail, card is likely faulty or incompatible and replacement is the long‑term fix. Meanwhile use onboard NIC.
Which do I recommend you try first?
Do A (clean driver uninstall + reinstall vendor installer) and B (disable energy features / BIOS tweaks) if you want to try to fix it. If you prefer to avoid more troubleshooting, stick with the onboard NIC and replace the PCIe 2.5Gb card later.
If you want to try A and B now, here are the exact, safe steps and the single commands to run. I’ll wait while you do each one and you can report the results.
A — Clean driver uninstall and reinstall vendor installer (safe)
1) List Realtek driver packages in the driver store (just to see them):
pnputil /enum-drivers | findstr /i Realtek
2) Export current Realtek drivers for backup (optional, safe):
Create a folder first, then export:
md C:\DriverBackup
pnputil /export-driver oem* C:\DriverBackup
(If that exports many drivers it’s OK — you’ll have a backup.)
3) Remove Realtek driver packages (use the oem name(s) you saw with step 1)
Example (replace oemN.inf with the exact name found):
pnputil /delete-driver oem9.inf /uninstall /force
pnputil /delete-driver oem7.inf /uninstall /force
(You can repeat for each Realtek oem driver listed.)
4) Reboot (clean state):
shutdown /r /t 5
5) Install the Realtek vendor installer you downloaded (run as Admin):
Start-Process -FilePath "C:\Path\Install_Win11_Win10_10077_20_08282025.exe" -Verb RunAs -Wait
(Replace the path with the actual file path.)
6) Reboot again and test cold boot. If it still fails, go to B.
B — Disable adapter energy features and check BIOS power settings (safe & reversible)
1) Show exact advanced property names (copy/paste the output):
Get-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "Ethernet" | Where-Object DisplayName -match 'Green|Gigabit|EEE|Energy' | Format-Table DisplayName,DisplayValue -AutoSize
2) Disable the relevant features (example commands). Run only after you confirm property names in step 1:
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "Ethernet" -DisplayName "Green Ethernet" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "Ethernet" -DisplayName "Gigabit Lite" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "Ethernet" -DisplayName "Advanced EEE" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "Ethernet" -DisplayName "EEE Max Support Speed" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
3) In BIOS/UEFI (reboot to firmware)
  • Disable PCIe ASPM / Link State Power Management (if present).
  • Disable ErP / deep sleep / Sx power settings.
  • Set PCIe slot power/performance to maximum (if option exists).
    Save & reboot and do cold‑boot tests.
C — Replace the card (if A+B fail)
  • If both A and B fail, the card is likely defective or incompatible with that motherboard slot/timing. Replace with another PCIe 2.5Gb or use a USB 2.5G adapter. Recommended chipsets: Intel I225 (Intel-based) or known-good Realtek/Marvell cards from a reputable vendor. Keep the onboard NIC enabled as a fallback.
If you want to proceed now, tell me:
  • “Do A” to run the clean uninstall (I’ll give the one‑line to list drivers now and the exact pnputil deletes after you paste the pnputil list), or
  • “Do B” to disable energy features (I’ll give the Get‑NetAdapterAdvancedProperty command so you can confirm exact DisplayName values, then the disable commands), or
  • “Replace” and I’ll recommend replacement cards and exact steps to prepare an RMA/replacement.
Which do you want to try first?
 

Before I tried to move the PCIe 2.5Gb card into a different slot. I saw there was factory reset network card in Windows 11. I did and it worked!
Done 4 cold boots and perfect everytime. Tested internet connection with Speedtest and its perfect.

I wish to break for dinner now so don't post any further commands.
I feel we are making good and rapid progress today.
 

Great news — that’s an excellent result. Nice work tracking that down and confirming it with multiple cold boots and a Speedtest.
Short summary of what you did and current status
  • You moved/used the factory-reset (Windows 11) network configuration for the PCIe 2.5Gb NIC.
  • After the reset the PCIe NIC comes up reliably on cold boot; you tested 4 cold boots and an internet Speedtest — all good.
  • Problem appears resolved for now.
Safe next‑step reminders (no commands — just notes)
  • You already created a restore point earlier — good. Keep that until you’re confident everything stays stable.
  • If you want the scheduled task workaround removed later (now unnecessary), I can give the exact one‑line removal when you’re ready.
  • If this returns, we can still try slot testing, driver rollback/clean reinstall, or BIOS tweaks — you’re in a much better position for those if needed.
Enjoy your dinner — I’ll be here when you come back. If you want, when you return we can:
  • Remove the scheduled task and the temporary script, and/or
  • Re-run a brief checklist (device manager, driver package list, event log) and tidy up.
Want me to wait until you’re back, or shall I stand by and jump in when you post next?
 

Wait until I'm back.
 

Okay — I’ll wait. Tell me when you’re back and we’ll continue from here.
 

I'm back.

Here's the rub. All my file are present and correct. I don't think there isn't anything to restore with Robcopy in this regard. I also don't need to retore my desktop as I organised everything. It needed tidying up anyway.
All is left is to restore software that was installed eg Adobe Creative Suite and Microsoft Office. There may be others but they are the two main ones.
If there is a quicker way to restore rather than completely reinstall then let's proceed.

Hoping to have this done quickly as I need to head out at 9pm for a few hours.
 

Welcome back — glad your files are intact and the NIC is stable. We can get Office and Adobe back quickly if you tell me a few small details first so I give the fastest, correct path.
Short questions (one or two answers)
1) Which exact Microsoft Office do you want to restore?
  • Microsoft 365 / Office 365 (subscription tied to your Microsoft account), or
  • Office 2019 / Office 2016 / Office 2013 (perpetual license with product key), or
  • Office that came from a work/volume license?
    2) Which Adobe product exactly?
  • Adobe Creative Cloud subscription (Creative Cloud Desktop + Photoshop/Illustrator etc), or
  • Adobe Creative Suite (CS6 or earlier — perpetual boxed suite), or
  • An older CS installer with serial number?
Why I ask
  • Office 365 / Microsoft account installs are quickest: sign in at account.microsoft.com → Install.
  • Adobe Creative Cloud installs are similarly quick: install the Creative Cloud Desktop app and sign in.
  • Perpetual products (Office retail keys, old CS suites) require original installers/serials — reinstall from vendor portal or backups.
While you reply, here are quick checks and the fastest general restore options so you can move fast:
A — Quick detection commands (optional; paste results if you want me to confirm)
Run these (Admin PowerShell) to show what Windows still thinks is installed and any leftover program folders:
1) Registry-installed programs
Get-ItemProperty HKLM:\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall* | Select DisplayName,DisplayVersion,Publisher | Sort DisplayName
Get-ItemProperty HKLM:\Software\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall* | Select DisplayName,DisplayVersion,Publisher | Sort DisplayName
2) Program folders to check (do not delete)
dir "C:\Program Files\Adobe" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue
dir "C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue
dir "C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue
dir "C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Office" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue
dir "C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office\root\Office16" -ErrorAction SilentlyContinue
If any of these folders exist with large size, a repair may be possible instead of a full reinstall.
B — Fastest restoration paths (pick based on your answers)
If Office = Microsoft 365 (recommended path)
  • Sign in at account.microsoft.com with the Microsoft account you use on the PC → Services & subscriptions → Install Office. That downloads an installer which will reinstall Office and reconnect your subscription/licence. Then sign into Office apps to restore your profile and OneDrive documents.
If Office = retail/perpetual (e.g., Office 2016/2019)
  • If you have the Microsoft account used to register it, go to account.microsoft.com and check your installs; otherwise use your installer media/ISO and product key. If you don’t have an installer, I can show how to download the correct Office offline installer from Microsoft (you’ll need the product key).
If Adobe = Creative Cloud subscription
If Adobe = Creative Suite (CS6 or earlier, perpetual)
  • You will need original installers and serial numbers. If the program folder and licensing files remain under C:\Program Files\Adobe\CSx you may be able to run the product repair/activation. If not, reinstallation requires the installer and serial — check if Windows.old kept the installer or check your purchase email for serials.
C — If you want to try a repair before reinstalling
  • Microsoft Office (if some program files still present):
    • Settings → Apps → Installed apps → find Microsoft Office → Modify → Quick Repair (runs fast). If Quick Repair fails, try Online Repair (reinstalls).
  • Adobe (if folders remain):
    • Run the Creative Cloud Cleaner or run the app’s Repair option if present — but usually reinstall via Creative Cloud is simplest.
D — Prep notes (speeds everything)
  • Pause/disable Kaspersky during large installs (re‑enable afterwards).
  • Have passwords for Microsoft and Adobe accounts ready.
  • If you have product keys for perpetual software, have them handy.
E — If you want I can:
  • Give the exact Microsoft links + step‑by‑step for your Office type.
  • Give the exact Creative Cloud download + sign‑in steps and how to restore settings.
  • Provide the PNPUTIL/repair commands if you prefer I try to repair existing program folder instead of full reinstall.
Tell me which Office and which Adobe product you have, and whether you want:
  • Quick re‑install via accounts (fast), or
  • Attempt a repair of the existing program folders (I’ll give commands), or
  • You don’t have accounts/keys and want guidance to locate installers/keys.
I’ll respond with one exact next action (download link + single command or 1–2 GUI clicks) so we finish this quickly before you head out.
 

Microsoft Office 2019. I have a retail key.
 

Perfect — we can get Office 2019 reinstalled quickly. The fastest, most reliable path for a retail Office 2019 product key is:
  • Redeem the key at setup.office.com (links it to a Microsoft account) → download the official installer → run installer → activate.
I’ll give the exact, minimal steps (GUI) you can do now — they’re the quickest. I’ll wait while you run them and help if anything stops.
Before you start (short checklist)
  • Pause Kaspersky (or disable real‑time protection) for the install to avoid interference.
  • Make sure you have the Office 2019 retail product key ready.
  • If any Office remnants exist, uninstall them first via Settings → Apps → Installed apps → Microsoft Office → Uninstall (optional; the installer usually handles it). If uninstall fails, tell me and I’ll give the cleanup link/steps.
Step‑by‑step (fastest — redeem & download)
1) Redeem product key (bind to your Microsoft account)
  • Open a browser and go to: Setup Microsoft 365
  • Sign in with the Microsoft account you want Office linked to (create one if you don’t have one).
  • Enter your Office 2019 retail product key when prompted and follow the on‑screen steps. This associates the product with your account.
2) Download the installer
  • After redeeming, from the same site you’ll be offered a download. If not, go to: https://account.microsoft.com (sign in) → Services & subscriptions → find your Office 2019 entry → click Install.
  • Download the installer (it will be the official Microsoft installer for Office 2019).
3) Install Office
  • Run the downloaded installer as Administrator (right‑click → Run as administrator).
  • Follow the prompts (default install is fine). The installer will put Office into C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office\root\Office16 for Office 2019/Office 365 apps.
  • When prompted, sign in with the same Microsoft account (this activates the retail license), or enter your product key if asked.
4) Verify activation
  • Open Word → File → Account. It should show “Product Activated” and list Office 2019.
If the installer complains about existing Office or fails
  • Let me know the exact error text. I’ll give one cleaning step (Microsoft’s uninstall support tool) or the safe pnputil cleanup sequence — whichever you prefer.
If you prefer an offline installer or the ODT method (useful if the web installer is blocked)
  • I can give the Office Deployment Tool configuration XML and the exact single commands to download and install Office 2019 from the CDN. That is slightly more work but handy if you need an ISO.
Adobe Creative Cloud (short)
  • If you also want Adobe and you have a Creative Cloud subscription, the quickest is:
    • Sign in at Adobe Account → Apps → Install Creative Cloud (download the Creative Cloud desktop app) → sign in → reinstall apps (Photoshop, Illustrator, etc).
  • If you have an older perpetual Creative Suite (CS6 etc), you’ll need the original installers/serial, or ask me to check C:\Windows.old for installers.
Do you want me to:
A) Stand by while you redeem the key at setup.office.com and run the installer (I’ll wait and troubleshoot any errors), or
B) Give the Office Deployment Tool offline commands (if you prefer an ODT approach), or
C) Help with Adobe next instead?
Say “A — I’ll redeem & install” and I’ll wait while you do it and help instantly if anything pops up.
 

Okay so I have to re-install everything. I thought you were going to show me a clever way to restore everything magically.
We're done here then but there is one other issue. Since we disabled the PIN. Whenever Chrome is trying to autofill a password I get this window:

Untitled.webp
 

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