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NettleWarbler

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I bought a SATA/PATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for 2.5/3.5 Hard Disk Drive , off Ebay which has never been used i forgot about it . How do i set it up to use to recover files . Thank you . Trevor Bilton . I'm also no longer a member of Ebay .
 

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Hi Trevor — thanks, and nice find. From the screenshot you uploaded I can see the item in your cart is the common USB-to-IDE/SATA adapter cable: it has a SATA plug (red cable), a USB lead, and a white 4‑pin Molex power lead for 3.5" drives. That means it should work for both laptop 2.5" SATA drives and desktop 3.5" drives (with the power brick).
Below are simple, safe steps to connect the adapter and recover files, plus troubleshooting and recovery-tool suggestions.
1) Identify the drive type
  • 2.5" SATA (laptop) — usually powered by USB alone.
  • 3.5" SATA (desktop) — requires the Molex power from the adapter’s power brick (or a separate PSU). Don’t try a 3.5" without external power.
  • 2.5" / 3.5" PATA/IDE (older) — uses the wide...
Why 3.5" drive
 

Short answer: because a 3.5" desktop HDD needs a separate 12V power rail to spin its motor, and USB only supplies 5V (and limited current). Your adapter must provide the extra power from an external brick so the drive can spin and operate. - 3.5" desktop drives have a spindle motor that requires both 12V and 5V rails (12V for the motor, 5V for electronics). USB provides only 5V and at limited current (500 mA for USB2, 900 mA for USB3), so it can’t power the motor.
  • 2.5" laptop drivwer and often run from the USB 5V (bus‑powered). That’s why those can work without a separate power brick.
  • That’s also why powered docks or adapterlude an external power supply and a proper 15‑pin SATA power plug (or Molex→SATA wiring) — to deliver the required voltages and current.
If you want, I can now:
  • Tell you exactly which plug on your nd how to attach it safely, or
  • Walk you through powering the drive and checking Windows once it’s connected.
 

Ok
 

Great — sounds good.
Two very quick reminders before you try anything:
  • A 3.5" desktop HDD needs an external power supply (both 12V and 5V) to spin up — the small SATA data cable and USB cannot supply that. s you to format the drive, do NOT format it — that destroys recoverable data. Close the prompt and check Disk Management or ask for help.
When you’re ready I tep. Easiest ways to help:
  • Post a clear photo of the drive connector area and the adapter power plug, or
  • Tell me the Windows version you’re using and whether the drive spins when powered.
Say the word and I’ll guide you through connecting and checking Disk Management.
 

What about an unpowed vesion
 

Short answer: an unpowered (bus‑powered) USB→SATA/IDE adapter will usually only work with 2.5" laptop HDDs and SSDs. It will not reliably power a 3.5" desktop drive because that drive needs a 12V rail the USB port does not provide. atters
  • USB supplies 5V only (and limited current). 3.5" desktop drives need both 5V and 12V (12V for the spindle motor). An unpowered adapter cannot supply the 12V, so a 3.5" drive will either not spin up at all or behave unreliably.
  • If an unpowered a“work” it’s usually only because the drive’s electronics get partial power — this is unstable and can cause I/O errors, corrupted data, or the drive falling offline mid‑copy.
Risks of trying to use an unpowered adaptewon’t spin (most likely).
  • Intermittent connections → corrupted files if you copy.
  • Possible damage if you try unsafe workarounds (don’t jury‑rig 12V from other sources unless you know what you’re doing).
Practical options
  • Best: use a powered adapter/docking station or a powered USB→SATA adapter that explicitly lists 3.5" support (includes an external power brick and a proper SATA power plug or Molex→SATA lead).
  • If you have a desktop with free internal SATA + PSU connectornd connect it internally to the PC (one SATA data cable + one SATA power from the PSU) and copy files directly. That’s often the fastest/reliablе way.
  • If you only need a one‑off recovery and don’t want to buy hardware, a local PC shohe files for a small fee.
If you get a powered adapter/dock
  • Plug the adapter’s external power brick in first, attach the SATA power (15‑pin) or Molex→SATA as supplied, then connect the SATA data cable and finally plug the USB into your PC. Wait 10–20 seconds for the drive to spin and Windows to detect it. If Windows asks to format, do NOT format — close the prompt and check Disk Management first.
If you want, I can:
  • Recommend specific, inexpensive powered docks/adapters to buy, or
  • Help you checknfirm it includes the required external power and 3.5" support.
Which would you prefer?
 

This will do

Usb 2.0 to Sata Ide Cable​

 

Yes — that cable will do the job only if it includes an external power supply and the correct power lead for a 3.5" desktop drive. A quick checklist and what to look for:
  • Must‑have: an external power brick that supplies 12V (and 5V) and either a 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA power lead. Without that external power a 3.5" drive will not spin up (USB alone only provides 5V). , it’s only suitable for 2.5" laptop drives — not for 3.5".
If your cable/package does include the pop steps (short):
  1. Unplug the adapter from the PC and wall.
  2. Connect the adapter’s power plug to the drive’s power sock or Molex→SATA). Don’t force any connector — they’re keyed.
  3. Connect the adapter’s SATA data lead to the drive.
  4. Plug the adapter’s USBon your PC.
  5. Turn the adapter power ON and wait 10–2ve to spin. If Windows prompts to format, DO NOT format — checst.
About the “four metal pins” you mentioned
  • Don’t force any pins. If you see exposed metal pins on the adapter end, that is likely the adapter’s mate with a female socket on the power brick or a Molex→SATA cable; it must not be shoved into the flat SATA power socket on the drive. If you’re unsure, post a clear close‑up photo of the drive connector area and the adapter ends and I’ll point to the correct plug.
If you want, paste the exact product title/link or upload a photo of the adapter and the drive connectors and I’ll confirm whether you have the required power lead and ing it in and checking Disk Management.
 

I didn;t ealise it had a power supply thee ain't too many sockets left . I will buy 2 two tho . I will get back when they come .
 

Perfect — sounds like a plan. A few short, practical tips while you wait for the adapters so you won’t get stuck when they arrive.
1) Buy the right thing
  • Get a powered SATA/IDE→USB adapter or a powered docking station that explicitly lists 3.5" HDD support (has an external power brick). 3.5" desktop drives require the adapter’s external power (12V + 5V); USB alone won’t spin the drive. surge protection
  • If wall outlets are scarce, buy a good surge‑protected power strip (not two strips daisy‑chained). The adapter’s power brick can share that strip with other peripherals. Avoid cheap, overloaded extension leads.
  • Don’t plug the adapter power into an ungrounded or unstable source; while rare, power faults can damage a drive.
3) Simple hookup checklist (do these in order)
  • Unplug adapter and PC.
  • Plug the adapter’s wall brick into the power strip (leave the adapter OFF).
  • Connect the adapter’s power lead to the drive (15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA as supplied). Don’t force connectors.
  • Plug the adapter’s SATA data lead into the drive.
  • Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
  • Turn the adapter ON and wait 10–20 seconds — the drive should spin quietly.
4) When Windows seeows asks to format the disk: DO NOT FORMAT. Formatting destroys recoverable data — close the prompt and check Disk Management instead.
  • If needed: right‑click Start → Disk M the partition but no letter, assign a letter (right‑click → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add).
5) If anything sounds odd
  • If the drive clicks, grinding, or doesn’t spin: stop immediately. That’s a sign of physical failure — don’t keep trying; consider a pro data‑recovery service.
6) When your adapters arrive
  • If you want, post a clear photthe drive connectors (or paste the product name) and I’ll confirm it’s the right unit and walk you step‑by‑step through Disk Management / safe recovery.
Safe and simple — get the powered units and a surge strip, and come back when they’re in. I’ll help you through every click.
 

I will buy 2 fom USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE Combo Adapter for 2.5/3.5" SSD/HDD the make amazon is too dea .
 

Good choice — that StarTech “USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE Combo Adapter” is exactly the kind of powered adapter you want for 3.5" desktop drives, as long as it includes the external power brick and the proper 15‑pin SATA (or Molex→SATA) power lead. 3.5" drives require the adapter’s external power (USB cannot supply the 12V the spindle motor needs). he very short checklist
  • Plug the adapter’s external power brick into the wall/power strip (leave the adapter OFF).
  • Connect the adapter’s power lead to the drive (15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA as supplied). Don’t force connectors.
  • Plug the adapter’s SATA data lead into the drive’s SATA data port (the small L‑shaped plug).
  • Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
  • Turn the adapter ON, wait 10–20 seconds for the drive to spin, then check in File Explorer.
  • If Windows asks to format — CLOSE that prompt. Do NOT format. Instead open Disk Management (right‑click Start → Disk Management) and tell me what you see (or post a screenshot).
If anything is odd
  • If the drive clicks or won’t spin, stop — that indicates possible hardware failure.
  • If the disk appears in Disk Management but has no drive letter, right‑click the partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add a letter.
  • If Disk Management shows RAW or unallocated, don’t initialize/format — we’ll image/recover instead.
If you like, paste the exact StarTech product page or snap a quick photo of the adapter and drive connectors when it arrives and I’ll confirm everything and walk you step‑by‑step through Disk Management and safe file recovery.
 

They have no stock
 

No worries — StarTech is a solid pick but out of stock sometimes. Quick, practical options and what to watch for so you don’t buy the wrong thing:
1) What to insist on (non‑negotiable)
  • “Powered” (external power brick that supplies 12V and 5V). 3.5" drives require the 12V rail. r 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA lead (don’t try to shove a Molex into a SATA socket).
  • Explicitly liststhe product description.
2) Recommended alternatives to look for
  • Powered USB→SATA/IDE adapter cables from brands like Sabrent, UGREEN, Vantec, Unitek or StarTech (other SKUs).
  • Single‑bay powered SATA docking stations (drop‑in docks) — usually more convenient and reliable than a bare cable. Brands: ORICO, Sabrent, UGREEN.
    Note: USB 3.0 models are preferable (faster) but USB 2.0 will still work for recovery.
3) Price expectations (rough)
  • Powered adapter cable: budget ~£8–£20.
  • Powered single‑bay dock: ~£20–£40.
    (Prices vary by country/retailer and stock; check delivery times.)
4) Quick alternatives if you need data now
  • If your desktop has a free internal SATA port and a free Molex/SATA PSU connector, temporarily attach the drive internally — that’s often the fastest and most reliable way to copy files.
  • Local PC shop will usually copy filesou don’t want to wait for parts.
5) When you’ve got options
  • Paste the exact product title or link here and I’ll confirm it (power, connectors, 3.5" support) before you buy. If you post a photo of the adapter/dock when it arrives I’ll walk you step‑by‑step through the hookup and Disk Management checks.
If you want, I can search for currently‑available, reasonably priced models in your region — say UK or US — and shortlist 3 that are in stock. Which would you prefer?
 

Look
 

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Thanks — I can see the Amazon screenshot (StarTech models). Good pick — StarTech makes reliable adapters. A few quick clarifications and a short checklist so you buy the correct SKU and get up and running without problems.
What to pick
  • Pick the model that explicitly lists support for both 2.5" and 3.5" drives (the screenshot shows different SKUs; make sure the one you choose is the “2.5" and 3.5" Drives” variant).
  • Confirm the product includes an external power brick and a 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA power lead — 3.5" desktop drives require external 12V+5V power; USB alone won’t run them. - USB 3.1/3.0 will be faster but USB 2.0 will still work for recovering files (just slower). If your PC has USB3 ports pick the USB3 variant (Type‑A or Type‑C to match your ports).
Quick checklist befiable)
  • “Supports 3.5″ HDD” shown in the product description.
  • Includes an external power adapter (look at the product images/description).
  • Shows the proper power connector (15‑pin SATA power or includes Molex→SATA).
  • Good return policy / sold by a reputable seller (Amazon direct or a recognized reseller).
Short hookup steps after it arrives
  1. Plug the adapter’s power brick into your wall (leave adapter OFF).
  2. Connect the adapter’s power lead to the drive (SATA 15‑pin or Molex→SATA). Don’t force connectors.
  3. Attach the adapter’s SATA data cable (L‑shaped) to the drive.
  4. Plug adapter USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
  5. Turn the adapter ON, wait ~10–20s — the drive should spin.
  6. If Windows asks to format — DO NOT FORMAT. Open Disk Management (right‑click Start → Disk Management) and check the disk/partition before doing anything.
If you want help right now
  • Paste the eitle or link (or the model number from the product page) and I’ll confirm it’s the right SKU and that it includes the power lead.
  • Or snap/upload a photo of the product listing page (or the label on the box) and I’ll check it for the required power/support.
If you want, I’ll also suggest a couple of alternative powered adapters/docks (Sabrent, UGREEN, ORICO) if that StarTech SKU remains out of stock.
 

I will buy 2 two
 

Nice — buying two is a good idea (spare + one to test). A few short, practical points and a ready checklist so you’re ready when they arrive.
Quick must‑haves (verify before you finish checkout)
  • The listing explicitly supports 3.5" HDDs (not “2.5” only”).
  • The package includes an external power brick that supplies 12V (and 5V) and either a 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA lead. 3.5" desktop drives require that external power — USB alone won’t spin them. 3 ports on your PC, prefer a USB‑3 (faster) SKU; USB‑2 will still work but slower.
Simple checklist for when they arrive
  1. Put the adapter’s power brick into a surge‑protected strip (leave adapter OFF).
  2. Connect the adapter’s power lead to the drive (15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA as supplied). Don’t force connectors.
  3. Plug the adapter’s SATA data lead into the drive.
  4. Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
  5. Turn the adapter ON and wait 10–20 seconds — listen for the drive spinning smoothly.
  6. If Windows asks to format — CLOSE that prompt. Do NOT format. Open Disk Management (right‑click Start → Disk Management) and tell me what you see (or post a screenshot).
Safety / troubleshorive clicks, grinds, or won’t spin, stop — that’s a sign of physical failure; don’t keep trying.
  • Avoid USB hubs/front ports; use rear motherboard ports.
  • If limited wall sockets, use a single good surge strip (don’t daisy‑chain multiple extension leads).
If you like, when the adapters and drives are in:
  • Post the exact model number or snap a quick photo of the adapter ends and the drive connector. I’ll confirm everything and walk you step‑by‑step through connecting and then through Disk Management / safe recovery steps.
 

That adapter’s come but it dosn;t have a 64 pin slot like the last one .
 

Sounds like a small typo — I think you mean a 4‑pin, not “64‑pin.” No problem. Quick check and next steps so you don’t damage anything:
1) First: please stop and don’t force anything.
2) Can you do one quick thing for me? Take a close-up photo (phone) that shows:
  • the adapter ends (both the USB/data end and the power lead end), and
  • the drive connector area (where power and data plugs go).
    Upload those and I’ll point exactly which plug is which.
If you can’t take a photo right now, read the three likely situations below and follow the one that matches your adapter:
A — Adapter includes a flat 15‑pin SATA power plug
  • That plug mates directly with the drive’s wide, flat SATA power socket.
  • Hookup order: adapter power brick → adapter power plug into drive → adapter SATA data to drive → USB to PC → turn adapter on.
  • If you see this, you’re good to proceed.
B — Adapter has a 4‑pin Molex connector (male pins)
  • That Molex usually plugs into the adapter’s power brick (female socket) or into a Molex female cable from a PSU.
  • If your drive is SATA (most 3.5" are), you need a Molex→SATA power lead (female SATA power socket) between the Molex and the drive’s SATA power socket. Many adapters include this; some don’t.
  • If you don’t have a Molex→SATA lead you can either:
    • use a Molex→SATA adapter cable, or
    • connect the drive inside your desktop temporarily to the PC’s PSU (SATA power from PSU) instead.
C — Adapter has NO power connector (only USB + SATA data)
  • That adapter is for 2.5" drives only (bus‑powered) and will NOT run a 3.5" drive. Don’t try — the drive won’t spin and you can’t recover files that way. You’ll need a powered adapter or a docking station.
Important safety notes
  • If the drive clicks, grinds or won’t spin, stop and don’t keep trying — that likely indicates a hardware fault.
  • If Windows prompts to format, do NOT format the disk — close the prompt and check Disk Management first.
  • Use a rear USB port (not a hub) and plug the adapter power into a surge‑protected outlet.
If you post that photo or tell me exactly which connector you see on the adapter (describe it: “flat wide plug”, “white rectangular with 4 metal pins”, “no power lead”), I’ll tell you exactly which cable you need and the exact steps to hook it up and check Windows.
 

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