can not use this device

[NettleWarbler]

I bought a SATA/PATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for 2.5/3.5 Hard Disk Drive , off Ebay which has never been used i forgot about it . How do i set it up to use to recover files . Thank you . Trevor Bilton . I'm also no longer a member of Ebay .

 

[NettleWarbler]

I meen like an ide connection

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — that clears it up. When you say “IDE connection” you mean the old 40‑pin PATA (ribbon) connector. That’s fine — your adapter usually supports both IDE (PATA) and SATA, but the hookup rules are a little different. Follow these safe, step‑by‑step instructions for an IDE (PATA) 3.5" drive:
1) Identify the connectors (don’t force anything)

• IDE/PATA: a wide, flat 40‑pin ribbon connector on the drive (female, rows of holes).
• Power for 3.5" IDE drives is the white 4‑pin Molex connector (the one with round pins inside). The adapter must provide/be connected to an external power brick that feeds that Molex. 3.5" drives require external power — USB alone won’t work. on the drive (important)
• Locate the small jumper block near the IDE connector. If this is the only drive you’re attaching to the adapter, set the jumper to “Master” or “Single” (not “Slave”). Some drives use “CS” (Cable Select) — if you’re not using a multi‑drive cable just pick Master. If you’re unsure, tell me the drive model and I’ll look up the jumper diagram. Older adapters sometimes need the drive set to Master for the USB‑bridge to see it. .

3) Hookup order (sathe adapter from the wall and PC.

• Plug the IDE ribbon from the adapter into the drive’s 40‑pin socket. Make sure the keyed notch lines up (pin 1 orientation).
• Connect the adapter’s Molex (4‑pin) power plug to the drive’s Molex power socket. If the adapter only has a Molex male and your power brick has the female, mate them — don’t try to force a Molex into a SATA power socket. .
• Plug the adapter USB into a rear USB p hubs).
• Plug the adapter power brick into the wall, leave the adapter OFF until everything is connected.
• Turn adapter power ON. Wait 10–20 seconds — the drive should spin up smoothly.

4) In Windows — detection & safe actions

• If File Explorer shows the drive, copy the files you need immediately.
• If nothing shows: right‑click Start → Device Manager and look under “Disk drives” and under “Universal Serial Bus controllers” for the bridge device. If you see it with a warning icon, try uninstalling that device, unplugging and replugging the adapter.
• Open Disk Management (right‑click Start → Disk Management):
  • If the drive shows but has no letter: right‑click the partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add a letter.
  • If Disk Management says the partition is RAW or the disk unallocated, do NOT initialize or format if you need the files — use recovery tools or image the disk first. (Formatting will destroy recoverable data.) .

5) If the drive doesn’t spin or it clicks/grinds

• Stop immediing or failure to spin usually means a physical problem — further powered attempts can make recovery harder. Consider a professional recovery service if the data is important. .

6) Recovery tools (if partitions look damaged)

• Free: TestDisk (repairs partitionsing).
• Easy GUI: Recuva, EaseUS, R‑Studio, Stellar.
• If data is critical: make a sector‑by‑sector image first (ddrescue, HDD Raw Copy Tool, Macrium) and run recovery from the image.

If you want immediate help:

• Snap and upload a close‑up photo showing the drive’s connector area (ribbon connector, jumper block, power socket) and the adapter ends. I’ll mark exactly where to plug and what jumper setting to use, then walk you step‑by‑step through Disk Management.

 

[NettleWarbler]

No 3 pin plug its in half its going back .

 

[ChatGPT]

Good call — return it. If the power connector is broken or the wrong type, it won’t safely run a 3.5" drive and you risk damaging the drive or adapter.
Quick checklist for the replacement you should buy

• Must be “powered” and explicitly list support for 3.5" HDDs (not “2.5” only).
• Includes an external power brick that supplies 12V (and 5V) and a proper power lead: either a flat 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA lead. Don’t accept an adapter that only offers an exposed or broken 4‑pin connector. your PC has USB‑3 ports) — it’s faster, but USB‑2 will still work for recovery.
• Look for good reviews and images showing the power brick and connectors (so you can confirm the cable types before buying).

Why this matters (short)

• 3.5" desktop HDDs require a 12V rail to spin the motor; USB power alone won’t supply that. A powered adapter/dock supplies the needed 12V/5V safely.

Two buying options (‑bay docking station (drop‑in): easiest and usually most reliable (brands: Sabrent, UGREEN, ORICO).

• Powered SATA/IDE→USB adapter cable — make sure the listing shows the external power brick and 3.5" support (StarTech, Sabrent, UGREEN, Vantec are good brands).

What to do when the new adapter/dock arrives

1. Verify the box/images show a power brick and a 15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA lead.
2. Hookup order: power brick → power lead to drive → SATA/IDE data cable to drive → USB to rear PC port → turn adapter ON.
3. If Windows asks to format, do NOT format — open Disk Management first and tell me what you see.

If you want, paste the product link or snap a photo of the adapter’s ends before you pay and I’ll confirm it’s suitable.

 

[NettleWarbler]

Thee 3 bits look .

 

[ChatGPT]

That picture looks right — it’s the full StarTech kit with the power brick plus the plug adapters, the USB lead, the SATA/IDE head and the small adapter cables (so you’ve got the external power and the right connectors). Good news: that means you can run a 3.5" desktop drive safely. (pack and inspect — make sure the power brick, the flat 15‑pin SATA power lead or Molex→SATA lead, the SATA/IDE data lead and the USB cable are present.

1. Power brick to wall (OFF) — plug the power brick into the wall or a surge strip but leave the adapter power switch OFF.
2. Power lead to drive — if your drive is SATA: plug the wide flat 15‑pin SATA power plug into the drive’s power socket. If the kit gives a Molex and your drive needs SATA power, use the Molex→SATA lead supplied. Don’t force anything; connectors are keyed.
3. Data cable to drive — plug the adapteta plug into the drive’s data port. If you’re using IDE/PATA, attach the wide 40‑pin ribbon connector and set the drive jumper to Master/Single (not Slave) if it’s the only drive.
4. USB to PC — plug the adapter USB into a rear USB port on yont ports).
5. Power on the adapter — flip the adapter’s switch ON, wait 10–20 seconds and listen: the drive should spin smoothly (no repeated clicking).

If Windows sees the drive

• If a drive letter appears in File Explorer — copy your files immediately to another drive.
• If Windows offers to FORMAT the disk — CLOSE that box. Do NOT format; formatting destroys recoverable data.

If Windows does not show the drive

• Open Disk Management: right‑click Start → Disk the disk appears but has no letter → right‑click partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add.
  • If Disk Management shows RAW or unallocated → do NOT initialize or format; we should image or run recovery tools first.

Troubleshooting quick checks

• Drive doesn’t spin or makes clicking/grinding noises — stop immediately; tare failure and repeated attempts can make recovery harder. Consider a pro recovery service if the data is critical.
• Adapter shows a USB device but no disk in Explorer — try another rear USB port or another PC, then check Device Manager → D Serial Bus controllers for any “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” device. If a device has a yellow warning, uninstall it and replug the adapter.

If you want I’ll walk you through it step‑by‑step

• Power it up and tell me what you hear (spinning, silence, clicking) and whether the drive shows anagement.
• Or upload a close photo of the adapter ends and the drive power/data sockets and I’ll mark exactly which cable to use.

You’re set — plug it in carefully and report what Windows shows and I’ll guide the next clicks.

 

[NettleWarbler]

How do i fit the plug to the wall

 

[ChatGPT]

Good — here’s a short, safe step‑by‑step for fitting the interchangeable plug head to the StarTech power brick and getting it into your wall socket.
1) Identify the correct plug head

• Find the three‑pin UK plug head in the kit (rectangular with three flat pins). The kit usually includes several interchangeable heads (US/EU/UK/AU). Confirm the UK head matches the wall socket. head to the power brick
• Inspect the power brick where the plug head fits — there’s usually a slot or receptacle and a small latch or rails.
• Align the plug head so the pins face outward and the plastic tabs line up with the rails on the brick.
• Slide the plug head straight into the brick until it clicks or sits flush. You may need to push firmly but don’t force or rock it. It should lock in place or feel snug.

3) Fit the brick into the wall / power strip

• Use a surge‑protected power strip if possible. Don’t daisy‑chain cheap extension leads.
• Keep the adapter’s power switch OFF for now (if it has one).
• Plug the assembled brick into the wall/surge strip with the pins fully seated.

4) Connect to the drive (order to follow after plugging in)

• With the brick plugged in but adapter still OFF: connect the adapter’s power lead to the drive (SATA 15‑pin or Molex→SATA as supplied), then connect the data cable to the drive, then USB to the PC. Finally, turn the adapter ON and wait 10–20 seconds for the drive to spin. This order avoids hot‑plug surprises.

5) Safety checks & warnings

• If the plug head does not seat properly, don’t force it — it may be the wrong head or defective; return or swap it.
• If you see exposed metal, cracked plastic, or the plug wobbles, stop and don’t use it.
• If the drive clicks or doesn’t spin when you power on, switch everything off and ask for help — that can indicate a fault.
• If you’re short on wall sockets, use one good surge protector (not multiple chained strips).

If anything feels loose or you’re unsure, take a quick photo of the brick with the plug head attached (or the head next to the brick) and upload it here — I’ll confirm it looks correct before you power anything.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I'm almost 65 so the more help i get the better

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — I’ll keep this as simple and slow as you like. I’ll walk you through every step and explain what to look (and listen) for. If anything looks or sounds wrong, stop and tell me — don’t force anything.
Before we start — safety and small setup

• Work on a table with good light.
• Have the drive, adapter and power brick on the table.
• Keep the PC turned on and nearby (you’ll plug the USB into it).
• If possible, have a phone or camera ready to take a close photo of the drive connector area and the adapter ends — that helps if you get stuck.
• Don’t force any plugs. If a plug won’t go in easily it’s the wrong one or it’s upside down.

Step‑by‑step (do these slowly, one step at a time)
1) Fit the correct plug head to the adapter brick

• The brick has a slot for interchangeable plug heads (UK has three flat pins).
• Line the plug head up with the brick rails and slide in until it clicks or is snug.
• If it won’t click in smoothly, stop — tell me and take a photo.

2) Plug the power brick into the wall or a surge strip

• Keep the adapter power switch OFF for now (if there’s a switch).
• Use a single surge‑protected strip if your wall sockets are full.

3) Identify the drive sockets (look at the back end of the drive)

• SATA drive (most modern 3.5"): you’ll see two black sockets side‑by‑side: a small L‑shaped SATA data port (thin) and a wider flat SATA power socket (wide, 15‑pin).
• IDE/PATA drive (older): you’ll see a wide 40‑pin ribbon socket and a separate round‑pin Molex 4‑pin power socket (white) for power.
• Tell me which you see or post a close photo if unsure.

4) Connect power to the drive (while adapter OFF/unplugged from PC)

• If the adapter has a wide flat SATA power plug: plug that into the drive’s wide power socket.
• If the adapter has a Molex (4‑pin) and your drive needs SATA power, use the Molex→SATA lead that came with the kit. Don’t force a Molex into a SATA socket — they are different shapes.
• If it’s IDE/PATA (40‑pin ribbon), plug the Molex 4‑pin into the drive’s white power socket.

5) Connect the data cable

• For SATA: plug the small L‑shaped SATA data plug from the adapter into the drive’s SATA data port.
• For IDE/PATA: plug the wide ribbon connector into the drive; make sure the red stripe lines up with pin 1 on the drive.
• Make sure jumpers on IDE drives are set to Single or Master if this is the only drive (ask me the model if you want help).

6) USB to the PC

• Plug the adapter’s USB cable into a rear USB port on your PC (not a front USB or hub if possible).
• Keep the adapter switch OFF for the next step.

7) Power on the adapter and listen

• Switch the adapter ON. Wait 10–20 seconds.
• Listen: the drive should spin up smoothly (a soft steady spin).
• If you hear loud repeated clicking or grinding — switch OFF immediately and tell me. That can indicate a failing drive.

8) Check Windows (very simple)

• If an icon pops up in File Explorer and you see a drive letter, try to open it and copy a few important files straight away to another USB or the PC.
• If Windows says “You must format the disk” — CLOSE that box. Do NOT format. Tell me and we’ll recover safely.
• If that happens or you don’t see the drive: Right‑click the Start button → choose Disk Management. Tell me what it shows for the new disk (or post a photo of the Disk Management window). If you prefer, paste exactly what you see (e.g., “Disk 1 — 500GB — Healthy (Primary Partition)” or “Disk 1 — Unknown — Not Initialized”).

If anything goes wrong

• Drive doesn’t spin at all: check the power brick is plugged in and the adapter ON. Try another wall socket.
• Drive clicks/grinds: power OFF, stop, and tell me — don’t keep trying.
• Adapter shows in Device Manager but no drive letter: I’ll tell you how to assign a letter in Disk Management.
• Windows asks to initialize/format: do NOT initialize/format if you want your files.

If you want immediate hand‑holding

• Take 2 clear close photos (phone): (A) the drive’s connector end (power + data area) and (B) the adapter ends (power plug and data/USB ends). Upload them here and I’ll point to the exact plugs and the correct orientation.
• Or tell me which step you’re at right now and what you hear/see and I’ll tell you exactly the next click to do.

You’re doing fine — small careful steps and I’ll stay with you until the files are safe.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I will do without

 

[ChatGPT]

No problem — totally your choice. Quick, very short reminders if you change your mind later (keeps things safe and simple):

• Don’t force any connectors.
• For a 3.5" desktop drive you need the adapter’s external power brick (12V + 5V). USB alone won’t spin the drive.
• If Windows prompts you to format the disk: close that dialog and do NOT format — formatting destroys recoverable data.
• If the drive clicks/grinds or won’t spin: switch everything off and stop; that usually means hardware failure and a pro service is safer.
• When you want help I can walk you step‑by‑step: just post a clear photo of the drive connector and the adapter ends (phone photo is fine), or tell me what Windows shows in Disk Management and I’ll tell you exactly what to click.

If you’d rather not mess with it yourself, a local PC shop can copy the files for a small fee — bring the drive and the adapter (or just the drive).
You’re doing fine — I’m here whenever you want me to walk through it slowly with you.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I will buy 2 two of these .

 

[ChatGPT]

That Vantec adapter looks good — it’s the kind you want for 3.5" desktop drives as long as you get the powered SKU (the product page/box images show the external power brick and it explicitly lists 3.5" drive support). he order — 2 quick checks

• Make sure the listing/variant you select explicitly says it supports 3.5" (desktop) HDDs.
• Confirm the package includes an external power brick and the correct power lead (either a 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA lead). If the images show a brick and leads, you’re fine.

Very short hookup chis simple)

1. Put the power brick together (fit the correct plug head) and plug it into the wall or a surge‑protected strip — leave the adapter OFF.
2. Connect the adapter power lead to the drive’s power socket (15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA as supplied).
3. Connect the adapter’s SATA or IDE data connector to the drive.
4. Plug the adapter USB into a rear USB port on your PC (not a front port or hub).
5. Turn the adapter ON and wait 10–20 seconds — the drive should spin up.

What to watch for (easy rules)

• If Windows prompts “Format disk” — CLOSE it. Do NOT format. (That destroys recoverable files.)
• If the drive spins smoothly and a drive letter appears in File Explorer — copy your important files straight away.
• If the drive clicks or grinds or does not spin — turn everything off immediately; that usually indicates a physical problem and you should stop.
• If the drive is detected but has no letter: right‑click Start → Disk Management → right‑click the partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add.

If anything goes wrong or you want me to walk you through it step‑by‑step:

• Tell me when you’ve unpacked one and what you see (photos help but aren’t required).
• I’ll guide you through each plug, turning it on, and checking Disk Management — one short step at a time.

Good move buying two — you’ll have a spare. When they arrive, say the word and I’ll walk you through the first connection slowly.

 

[NettleWarbler]

Look

• Supports 2.5" & 3.5" IDE & SATA I/II/III, SSDs, Hard Drives, CD/DVD/Blu-ray Drives

 

[ChatGPT]

Good — that line in the listing means it supports what you need (2.5" and 3.5", IDE and SATA). That’s exactly the kind of powered adapter you want. , step‑by‑step checklist to follow when one arrives (I’ll stay with you through each step if you want):
1) Unpack & inspect

• Confirm the box contains: USB cable, SATA/IDE head, external power brick + interchangeable plug heads (or a power lead with SATA/Molex).
• If anything is missing or the power connector looks damaged, don’t use it — return it.

2) Assemble power and plug into the wall (but keep adapter OFF)

• Fit the correct plug head to the power brick and plug into a surge‑protected strip or wall socket. Leave adapter switch OFF.

3) Connect the adapter to the drive (order matters)

• SATA drive: plug the wide flat 15‑pin power lead into the drive’s power socket (or use the supplied Molex→SATA lead if needed), then plug the small L‑shaped SATA data lead into the drive.
• IDE/PATA drive: plug the wide 40‑pin ribbon connector into the drive, and the white 4‑pin Molex for power into the drive. Set the jumper to Single/Master if it’s the only IDE drive.

4) USB to PC, then power on

• Plug the adapter USB into a rear USB port (avoid hubs/front ports).
• Turn the adapter ON and wait 10–20 seconds — the drive should spin up smoothly.

5) What to do in Windows (simple)

• If Explorer shows a drive letter → copy your important files immediately.
• If Windows prompts to FORMAT → CLOSE that dialog. Do NOT format.
• If no letter appears: right‑click Start → Disk Management → find the disk → if partition exists but has no letter, right‑click partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add.
• If Disk Management shows RAW/unallocated → do NOT initialize/format; we’ll image or run recovery tools instead.

6) If something sounds or looks wrong

• Drive doesn’t spin or clicks/grinds → turn everything off immediately. That’s likely a hardware fault; stop and consider a pro data‑recovery service.
• Adapter detected but no access → try another rear USB port or another PC, then check Device Manager for a “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” device.

If you’d like I’ll walk you through every click slowly when you’ve unpacked one — or you can upload a clear photo of the adapter ends + the drive connector and I’ll point to the exact plugs and the correct orientation. Which would you prefer?

 

[NettleWarbler]

Be 10 Days

 

[ChatGPT]

That’s fine — 10 days is plenty of time. When they arrive I can walk you through every step slowly. Meanwhile, a very short checklist so you’re ready and it goes smoothly when they turn up:
Before they arrive (easy prep)

• Get a single good surge‑protected power strip (so you’ll have a spare socket for the adapter brick).
• Have a USB stick or external drive (or spare internal drive) ready with enough free space to copy your important files to.
• Keep a phone or camera handy to take a close photo of the adapter ends and the drive connectors if you need me to confirm anything.
• If you plan to open your desktop later, have a small Phillips screwdriver available.

When the adapters arrive — what to check on the box (30 seconds)

• Confirm the listing/box says “Supports 3.5” HDD” (you already chose correctly).
• Confirm there’s an external power brick and the power lead (images usually show it).
• If anything’s missing or the power connector looks damaged, return it — don’t use it.

What I’ll do for you when you’re ready

• I’ll walk you step‑by‑step, one small action at a time (plug head onto brick → plug brick in → attach drive power → attach data cable → plug USB into PC → turn on → check Windows).
• I’ll tell you exactly what to click in Windows (Disk Management, copying files, or what to do if Windows asks to format).
• If anything sounds wrong (clicking, not spinning) I’ll tell you when to stop and what to do next.

If you want, drop back in here when the adapters arrive and say “Ready” — tell me whether the drive is SATA or IDE and I’ll guide you through the first connection slowly.

 

[ChatGPT]

Perfect — that order page shows your Vantec adapter arriving on 31 August 2025, which is 10 days from today (today is 21 August 2025). things to do while you wait (so it’s painless when it arrives)

• Put a small surge‑protected power strip where you’ll work (the adapter needs its own power brick for 3.5" drives).
• Make sure you have an available rear USB port on your PC (avoid front ports/hubs).
• Clear a small, well‑lit table to work on and keep the drive’s screw heads or any jumpers handy.
• If you plan to copy files to the PC, check you have enough free space or a spare external drive/USB stick ready.
• If the drive is important, don’t format anything if Windows asks — close the prompt and ask me first. (I’ll guide you through safe recovery steps.)

When it arrives

• If you want step‑by‑step hand‑holding, say “ready” and I’ll walk you through every connection and every click in Disk Management (I’ll tell you exactly what to plug, when to switch on, and what to do if Windows asks to format).
• Or just post a clear photo of the adapter and the drive connector and I’ll point to the exact plugs to use.

If anything looks wrong (broken connector, exposed pins, loud clicking when you power on) stop and tell me — don’t keep trying; I’ll help you decide the safest next step.
Want me to stay with you when you first power it up? Say the word and I’ll guide you through each step.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I got an email fom amazon about , Vantec SATA/IDE TO USB 3.0 Adapter . Which did not show .