can not use this device

[NettleWarbler]

I bought a SATA/PATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable for 2.5/3.5 Hard Disk Drive , off Ebay which has never been used i forgot about it . How do i set it up to use to recover files . Thank you . Trevor Bilton . I'm also no longer a member of Ebay .

 

[ChatGPT]

Hi Trevor — thanks, and nice find. From the screenshot you uploaded I can see the item in your cart is the common USB-to-IDE/SATA adapter cable: it has a SATA plug (red cable), a USB lead, and a white 4‑pin Molex power lead for 3.5" drives. That means it should work for both laptop 2.5" SATA drives and desktop 3.5" drives (with the power brick).
Below are simple, safe steps to connect the adapter and recover files, plus troubleshooting and recovery-tool suggestions.
1) Identify the drive type

• 2.5" SATA (laptop) — usually powered by USB alone.
• 3.5" SATA (desktop) — requires the Molex power from the adapter’s power brick (or a separate PSU). Don’t try a 3.5" without external power.
• 2.5" / 3.5" PATA/IDE (older) — uses the wide 40‑pin connector; some IDE drives need a jumper set to single/master (see step 3). Many adapters will have a small jumper or switch for this.

2) Physical connection (order of steps)

• If it’s a 3.5" drive, connect the Molex power lead to the drive and connect the adapter’s external power supply — make sure the power switch (if present) is off.
• Connect the correct data plug (SATA or IDE) from the adapter to the drive.
• Turn the adapter/drive power on (if it has a switch).
• Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC (prefer a USB 2.0 port if that’s what the adapter is). Wait for Windows to recognize/install the bridge driver. Many people see a “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” device appear. only for PATA/IDE drives)
• If you’re connecting an IDE/PATA 3.5" drive, set the drive jumper to “Single” or “Master” (if there’s no other drive on the cable). Some USB adapters ignore master/slave, but others require the drive to be set as the only/master drive. If unsure, check the label on the drive or the adapter manual.

4) When Windows prompts to format — do NOT format

• If Windows pops up saying the disk must be formatted, do not format it if you want to recover files. That message usually means Windows can see the drive but doesn’t recognize the file system (or the partition table is damaged). Close the format prompt and use Disk Management or recovery software (next steps). This exact situation is common with these adapters.

5) Check Device Manat

• If the drive doesn’t appear in File Explorer: right‑click Start → Device Manager → look under “Disk drives” and “Universal Serial Bus controllers” for the adapter device. If you see a device with a warning icon, reinstall/uninstall+replug the device.
• Open Disk Management (right‑click Start → the disk appears there, you can:
  • If it shows healthy partitions with letters → open in Explorer and copy files.
  • If it shows partitions but no drive letter → right‑click partition → “Change Drive Letter and Paths” and assign a letter.
  • If it shows unallocated or RAW → do not initialize/format if you need the files; use recovery tools (next).

6) Recovery steps if the drive is visible but files don’t open

• If partitions are intact, just copy the files to another drive.
• If partitions are RAW or files are missing/corrupted, use file‑recovery software (don’t write anything to the failing drive):
  • Free options: TestDisk (for partition/table repair) and PhotoRec (file carving). Recuva is user‑friendly for deleted files.
  • Paid options: EaseUS Data Recovery, R‑Studio, Stellar Data Recovery (often easier GUI for novices).
• If the data is very important, first make an image (sector‑by‑sector) of the disk to another drive, then run recovery from the image. Tools for imaging: ddrescue (Linux), HDD Raw Copy Tool, or Macrium Reflect. Imaging protects your original media if it’s failing.

7) If the drive is noisy, clicking, or won’t spin up

• If you hear repeated clicking, or the drive does not spin up, stop. That’s likely a physical failure and continuing can make recovery harder. In that case consider a professional data‑recovery service.

8) Troubleshooting if the adapter/drive is not recognized

• Make sure the adapter’s power brick is plugged in and switched on for 3.5" drives.
• Try a different USB port (rear ports on a desktop are preferred), or try another PC.
• Try a different cable/adapter if available.
• Avoid plugging the adapter into a USB hub.
• If Windows shows the “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” but no drive contents, try the adapter on another computer to rule out OS issues. Many forum users have followed these exact steps successfully.

9) If you’d like, I can walk you through it

• Tell me: Is the drive you want to recover a 2.5" or 3.5"? Is it SATA or IDE (a photo of the drive label/connector helps)? Which Windows version are you using? I’ll give step‑by‑step commands/screens to follow.

Useful background threads (examples)

• How Windows shows/installs the USB‑ATA bridge and what to check in Device Manager.
• Common adapter behavior and the “do not format” scenario; people recovering files use this adap same prompts.

If you post a photo of your actual adapter and the drive you want to recover (or tell me the drive model/type), I’ll our hardware.

 

[NettleWarbler]

Thanks CHATGpt , i will see to it tomoow .

 

[ChatGPT]

You’re welcome — good luck tomorrow. Quick reminders before you start:

• If it’s a 3.5" desktop drive, make sure the adapter’s external power (Molex) and power brick are connected and switched on.
• If it’s an older IDE/PATA drive check the jumper setting (single/master) if the adapter requires it.
• If Windows asks to format the disk, DO NOT format — that will wipe your chance to recover files.
• Use Disk Management to see the disk first (right‑click Start → Disk Management). If partitions/letters are OK just copy files; if RAW or missing, use recovery software or make a disk image first.
• If the drive clicks or won’t spin up, stop and consider professional recovery.

If you like, post the drive type or a photo tomorrow and I’ll walk you step‑by‑step.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I plugged the Adapter in i have a cable with a sata end , i take it that,s the one i use in my computer . There is also a sata connection showing , can somebody tell me how to get it working thank you .

 

[ChatGPT]

Good — you’re almost there. Below are short, safe steps to get a SATA drive working with that adapter, plus quick troubleshooting if Windows doesn’t show the drive.
1) Confirm which drive you have

• 2.5" (laptop) SATA — usually gets enough power from the USB cable (bus‑powered).
• 3.5" (desktop) SATA — requires the adapter’s external power/Molex plugged in and the adapter’s power switched on. Don’t try a 3.5" without that external power. on order (recommended)
• Plug the adapter’s power brick into the wall (leave switch OFF for now if it has one).
• Connect the adapter’s SATA plug to the drive.
• Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
• Turn the adapter / power switch ON (if present). Doing power → data → turn on helps Windows detect the drive.

3) What Windows shoo first

• Wait a few seconds after power on. Windows normally installs a “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” driver and the drive should appear. If File Explorer shows it, just copy files off it. If not, open Disk Management: right‑click Start → Disk Management. If you see the disk but no drive letter, right‑click the partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add/Assign a letter.

4) Important: if Windows prompts to formarmat

• That message means Windows can see the device but not the file system/partition table. Formatting will destroy recoverable data. Instead use Disk Management / recovery tools.

5) If the drive doesn’t appear in Explorer

• Check Device Manag → Device Manager) under “Disk drives” and under “Universal Serial Bus controllers” for the bridge device. If you see a yellow warning, try uninstalling the device there then unplug/replug the adapter. Prefer rear USB ports (not hubs).

6) If Disk Management shows RAW or unallocated

• Don’t initialize/format if you needry tools (TestDisk / PhotoRec for partitions and file carving, Recuva/EaseUS/R‑Studio for file recovery) or make a sector‑by‑sector image and recover from the image.

7) If the drive is noisy, clicks, or won’t spin

• Stop. That’s likely physical failure and you should consata‑recovery service.

If you want I’ll walk you through step‑by‑step — tell me:

• Is the drive a 2.5" or 3.5"?
• Is it SATA or IDE (PATA)? (A photo of the drive’s connector or label helps.)
• Which Windows version are you using?

Post that and I’ll guide you through exactly what to click.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I own a 3.5" (desktop) SATA it,s a desktop compute i will ty tomoow see you then .

 

[ChatGPT]

Perfect — thanks for the update. Quick checklist you can follow tomorrow for your 3.5" desktop SATA drive so you don’t get stuck:
Quick checklist (3.5" SATA)

• Connect power first: plug the adapter’s external power brick into the wall and attach the Molex power connector to the drive. Leave the adapter power switch OFF until everything is connected.
• Connect data: plug the adapter’s SATA plug into the drive’s SATA data port.
• USB to PC: plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your desktop (avoid hubs/front ports).
• Power up: switch the adapter on (drive should spin up). Listen briefly — it should spin smoothly without repeated clicking.
• Wait 10–20 seconds for Windows to detect the device.

If Windows doesn’t show the drive in File Explorer

• Open Disk Management: right‑click Start → Disk Management.
• If you see the disk but no letter: right‑click the large partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add → choose a letter → OK. Then check File Explorer.
• If Disk Management shows the drive as RAW or unallocated: DO NOT format. Stop and run recovery (see below).

If Windows prompts to format — do NOT format

• Formatting destroys recoverable data. Close the prompt and use recovery tools or image the disk first.

If the drive clicks, grinds, or won’t spin

• Stop immediately. That likely indicates physical failure — consider professional recovery.

Recovery tools (if needed)

• Free: TestDisk (partition repair) / PhotoRec (file carving), Recuva (deleted files).
• Paid (GUI): EaseUS, Stellar, R‑Studio.
• If data is very important, make a sector‑by‑sector image of the drive first (ddrescue, HDD Raw Copy Tool, Macrium) and recover from the image.

If anything goes wrong, tell me:

• What Windows shows in Disk Management (a short description or screenshot), any error messages, or whether the drive spins/clicks. I’ll walk you through the exact next steps. Good luck — see you tomorrow if you need help.

 

[NettleWarbler]

which is the power

 

[ChatGPT]

Short answer: the power is the external power lead (the bulky power brick + connector) — on the adapter this is usually the white 4‑pin Molex connector or a wider 15‑pin SATA power plug. A 3.5" desktop SATA drive must be powered from that, not from the thin L‑shaped SATA data cable. s which

• SATA data: thin, black/red cable with an L‑shaped 7‑pin plug (small). That is the data lead only.
• SATA power: wide, flat 15‑pin plug (much wider than the data plug).
• Molex (adapter power): chunky white rectangular 4‑pin connector (round pins inside). Many cheap USB→SATA adapters use a Molex from the adapter power brick to feed the drive.
  If you see a separate power brick with a cable that ends in a white 4‑pin connector, that is the power. If instead the adapter has a wider flat plug, that is the SATA power.

Exactly what to do g everything from the PC.

1. Plug the adapter’s power brick into the wall (leave the adapter power switch OFF if it has one).
2. Connect the adapter’s power connector to the drive:
   • If you have a Molex 4‑pin from the adapter, plug that into the drive’s Molex power socket (older drives) or into a Molex→SATA power adapter if needed.
   • If the adapter provides a 15‑pin SATA power plug, plug that into the drive’s SATA power socket.
3. Connect the adapter’s SATA data plug (the small L‑shaped one) into the drive’s SATA data port.
4. Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
5. Turn the adapter power ON and wait ~10–20 seconds for Windows to detect the drive.

If you’re unsure, post a photo of the adapter and the drive connector here (or a closeup of the connectors). I’ll point out exactly which plug to use and walk you through detection in Windows.

 

[NettleWarbler]

Seems too much bothe i will leave it .

 

[ChatGPT]

No problem — totally your call. A couple of quick, low‑effort options if you change your mind later:

• Take the drive + adapter to a local PC shop — they can usually copy your files in 15–30 minutes.
• Buy a simple powered SATA docking station or 3.5" USB enclosure (they include the power brick and are plug‑and‑play). If you only want data off the drive once, a shop is usually cheapest.
• If you want me to keep it simple and walk you step‑by‑step at the PC, I can do that — one short checklist and I’ll guide you.

If the drive makes clicking/grinding noises, stop and consider a professional service (continuing can make recovery harder).
If you change your mind, post a photo of the adapter and drive or say which option you prefer and I’ll help.

 

[NettleWarbler]

My adapter has a power socket opening , so i will give it a go .

 

[ChatGPT]

Great — let’s keep it simple and safe. Follow these exact steps for your 3.5" SATA drive and adapter (the one with the power socket):
1) Safety first

• Work on a non‑carpeted surface, ground yourself (touch a metal case) to avoid static, and don’t force connectors. If the drive makes loud repeated clicking or won’t spin, stop — that can be a sign of physical failure. er → data → USB)
• Plug the adapter’s external power brick into the wall (leave the adapter’s power switch OFF for now). 3.5" drives require that external power — the thin SATA data cable cannot power them.
• Plug the adapter’ the drive’s power socket (either a white Molex 4‑pin from the adapter or a 15‑pin SATA power plug). Make sure it fits snugly.
• Connect the adapter’s SATA data plug (tector) to the drive’s SATA data port.
• Plug the adapter’s USB into a rear USB port on your PC (avoid hubs/front ports).
• Turn the adapter power ON. Wait 10–20 seconds and listen — the drive should spin up smoothly.

3) Check Windows detection (quick)

• If File Explorer shows a nes you need to another drive immediately.
• If nothing appears: right‑click Start → Device Manager and look under “Disk drives” and “Universal Serial Bus controllers” for a “USB to ATA/ATAPI bridge” or similar. If there’s a yellow warning icon try uninstalling that device and replugging.

4) If the drive appears but you can’t open it

• Open Disk Management (right‑click Star
  • If the disk appears but lacks a drive letter → right‑click the partition → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add a letter. That often fixes access.
  • If Disk Management shows the partition as RAW or the disk as unallocated: DO NOT initialize or format the files — formatting will destroy recoverable data.

5) If partition/FS looks damaged

• Don’t write to the drive. First make an image (sector‑by‑sector) if the data is important, thhe image. Recommended imaging / recovery tools: ddrescue (Linux), HDD Raw Copy Tool, Macrium Reflect for imaging; TestDisk/PhotoRec for partition repair and file carving; Recuva / EaseUS / R‑Studio / Stellar for user‑friendly recovery.

6) Extra tips/troubleshooting

• Try another PC or another rear USB port if the drive isn’t recognized. Avoid USB hubs.
• These cheap adapters add a translation layer — if the drive is marginal or has many bad sectors, an internal SATA controller or a docking station sometimes works better. If the drit or becomes unresponsive, consider a professional recovery shop.

If you want, post a clear photo of:

• the adapter’s power plug (end of the power cable), and
• the drive’s connector area (where the power and data plugs go) — I’ll point to exactly which plug goes wherep‑by‑step through Disk Management if Windows doesn’t automatically show the drive.

 

[NettleWarbler]

It,s 4 pins not holes

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — quick clarification first: is the 4‑pin you see on the adapter cable (the cable end) or on the drive itself? A photo of the connector area (one shot showing the drive and the adapter plugs) will make this trivial to sort.
Meanwhile, the likely cases and what to do:

• If the adapter cable has a white 4‑pin Molex plug with four metal pins (male) and the drive has a matching white rectangular socket with four holes (female) — that’s normal: plug the Molex into the drive’s power socket (do this with the adapter power brick unplugged/off). 3.5" desktop drives must be powered from that external adapter power — the thin SATA data cable does not supply enough power. SATA 3.5" drive it should have a wide flat 15‑pin SATA power socket (female). If your adapter only has a 4‑pin Molex and no 15‑pin SATA power, you need a Molex→SATA power cable (or the adapter should supply a 15‑pin SATA power plug). Do not force a 4‑pin Molex into a 15‑pin SATA port — they are different shapes.
• If you actually see four metal pins sticking out of the drive (male pins) instead of holes, don’t force anything. That would be unusual for modern drives; post a photo so I can identify it.

Safe hookup checklist (repeatable, short)

1. Power OFF/unplug the adapter power brick.
2. Connect the adapter’s power plug to the drive’s power socket (Molex → Molex holes, or 15‑pin SATA → 15‑pin SATA socket). Don’t force — it’s keyed.
3. Connect the adapter’s SATA data lead (L‑shaped) to the drive’s data port.
4. Plug adapter USB into a rear USB port on PC.
5. Turn adapter power ON and wait 10–20 seconds for the drive to spin and Windows to detect it.

If anything looks odd or the drive clicks/doesn’t spin, stop and post a photo. If you post the photo here I’ll point to the exact plug and tell you the next click in Windows.

 

[NettleWarbler]

Thats what it is four metal pins sticking out

 

[ChatGPT]

Thanks — that helps. A quick warning first: don’t force anything into place. Exposed metal pins can mean the connector is the wrong type, damaged, or simply the adapter’s male plug — and forcing the wrong connection can short the drive or adapter.
Two quick possibilities and what to do next

• If the FOUR METAL PINS are on the DRIVE: that would be unusual for a modern SATA drive (SATA uses a flat 15‑pin power socket). If the drive actually has a 4‑pin Molex power socket it will look like four holes (female) — not exposed pins. If you really see metal pins on the drive, stop and post a photo. Do not connect power. PINS are on the ADAPTER CABLE (most likely): that is the adapter’s Molex male end and it should mate with a matching Molex female socket (four holes) on a power brick or on an older PATA drive cable. If your 3.5" drive is SATA, it should have a flat 15‑pin SATA power socket — you must feed it a 15‑pin SATA power plug (or a Molex→SATA power lead). Do not try to shove a 4‑pin Molex into a 15‑pin SATA socket.

What I need from yo

• Take a clear close‑up photo (phone is fine) showing the drive’s connector area (both power and data sockets) and the adapter’s power plug end side‑by‑side. Upload it here and I’ll point to exactly which plug to use.

If you want to try safely now (only do this if you’re absolutely sure):
1) Unplug the adapter from the wall and from the PC.
2) Match connectors visually — Molex = 4 rectangular pins/holes; SATA power = wide flat 15‑pin; SATA data = thin L‑shaped 7‑pin. Don’t force a mismatch.
3) If the adapter’s power plug is a 4‑pve uses SATA power, you’ll need a Molex→SATA power adapter (or the adapter’s power brick should include a SATA power plug).
4) If the adapter looks damaged (loose exposed pins without a plastic housing), stop and post the photo — it may be unsafe to use.
Post the photo and I’ll mark exactly which plug goes where and the next Windows steps.

 

[NettleWarbler]

I will search for an IDE to sata Adapter , there should be plenty these days . Then use Youtube as i normally do .

 

[ChatGPT]

Good — that’s the right next step. A few quick, practical buying tips so you don’t end up with the same frustrating connector situation again, plus what to do when it arrives.
What to buy (simple choices)

• Best (easiest): a powered SATA docking station (plug‑and‑play; you drop the 3.5" drive in). Search: “USB 3.0 SATA HDD docking station 3.5 powered”.
• Budget / multi‑use: a powered SATA/IDE-to-USB adapter that explicitly lists support for 3.5" HDDs and includes a power brick with either a 15‑pin SATA power plug or a Molex→SATA lead. Search: “powered SATA IDE to USB adapter 3.5 Molex power”.
• Avoid: tiny bus‑powered adapters or anything with exposed metal pins/loose plastic — they’re unreliable or unsafe for 3.5" drives.

Must‑have features

• External power brick that supplies 12V and 5V (required for 3.5" drives).
• A proper 15‑pin SATA power plug (or a Molex + included Molex→SATA adapter). Don’t try to force a 4‑pin Molex into a SATA power socket — they’re different.
• USB 3.0 if you want speed (backwards compatible with USB 2.0).
• On/Off switch and LED for drive power/connection.
• Good reviews and a returns policy (cheap adapters vary in quality). Forums note that powered adapters/docks are the reliable route for recovery. t5–£15 (works, but check for included power lead and build quality).
• Docking stations: ~£20–£40 (more convenient and usually more reliable for repeated use).

When it arrives — a one‑line checklist to get your drive working

1. Attach adapter/dock power brick to wall (power OFF).
2. Insert/plug the drive into the dock or attach the proper SATA power (15‑pin) and SATA data plug.
3. Plug adapter USB into a rear USB port on your PC.
4. Turn the adapter/dock ON and wait 10–20 seconds.
5. If Windows asks to format — close that prompt (do NOT format). Open Disk Management (right‑click Start → Disk Management) and check the disk. If it shows a partition without a letter, right‑click → Change Drive Letter and Paths → Add. If it shows RAW/unallocated and the data is important, stop and image/recover rather than formatting.

If you want, paste the exact product titlll check it for the three essentials (external power, 15‑pin SATA power or Molex→SATA included, and support for 3.5"). When it’s plugged in I can walk you through Disk Management and safe recovery steps.