I've seen a PSU going bad do weird things with cpu temp. I'm guessing this though is either the fan has stopped working or the cooling compound has gone off. Easy to check goto the bios and check the cpu temp and fan speed from there.A lack of proper voltage does not create an overheating scenario. If there is not enough power it will just malfunction and turn off. The only scenario where you can create physical damage this way is from going over the voltage or the PSU/CPU/motherboard/and other components losing their capability to regulate the voltage.
>>>No problem, NewfieEK. We appreciate the clarification back, and will advise further on your PSU size for your hardware. Glad this information proved helpful to you.<<<Hey guys, sorry for the delay. Yes sorry for the misunderstanding this was a CUSTOM-BUILT PC that i got at a shop several years back. I got the tower all unhooked to take to the shop tomorrow. Thanks for the help and the info that you guys were giving me and explaining it out. Not being that knowledgeable on this this. I did have someone pop the side off to look i think they said it was 450W if thats what you were looking for.
I May take my laptop in with me and show them this post so they can have an better idea of what was happening. I will update you when repairs done. Thanks again
>>>Mike; thanks for the detailed response! Very good information there. Unless Power Supplies have changed a lot in the last 20-30 years; I think you're a little off on your answer. I used to build and test Power Supplies for several companies in both the Server PC business as well as Biomedical equipment (Heart Monitors, specifically). Both of these industries are notorious for business-critical and life-support-critical applications--they can't afford to fool around with poor quality Power Supplies in their equipment. Back in the 70s, & 80s Switcher power supply technology was just coming out. In the Lab, we had special variable Power Generators, and we were able to adjust rails with a rheostat type knob switch on each and every power rail being output out of the PSU; +12Vdc, -12Vdc, +5Vdc, -5Vdc, and some other oddball ones like +/- 14Vdc; +/-18Vdc, etc., and then observe the results. With the testing we did, we were also able to put Microprocessor Chip Emulators from Intel and AMD directly into the Mobo sockets, and see the results on a computer screen in agonizing detail; and simultaneously on an Oscilloscope *might be before your time!*, that included every single I/O line into and out of that CPU socket; both signal voltages, ground lines, and all data buss lines. We certainly did see things like undervoltage on 1 or more rails damage the CPU chips. We specifically tested for this to eliminate the problem. In well-made PSUs, there are circuit design compensations that provide protection to the CPU chip itself from this particular problem. However, as I've posted in detail elsewhere on our forum, the detailed PSU design guide put together buy a bunch of engineers who also know their way around Power Supply technology as it pertains to building custom-rig gaming systems. Based on my direct experience with inexpensive PSUs made over the years, I believe this to be the case more often than you would think. On failed PSUs that test with 1 or more low voltage rails, as tested with a Multimeter, probably 1-2 in 10 CPU chips are damaged and must be replaced. Of course this varies, and doesn't happen all that much with OEM built PSUs; but it does happen. You're last line of your last paragraph states:The PSU does not directly supply power, in terms of voltage regulation, to the CPU, but it does supply power to other modular components connected to the motherboard such as the GPU rails and SATA drives. A component can not reasonably be damaged from being undervolted. Several things in an under-voltage scenario would happen here:
1. If the PSU supplies a lack of power to the motherboard, which regulates the voltage for the CPU (and in many cases the CPU is also self-regulating its own voltage), the system will blue screen, fail to start, go into endless reboot cycles, and show other signs of problems.
2. If the PSU supplies a lack of power to the video graphics card or the SATA drives these devices will fail to operate properly, but under no circumstances would they overheat.
A lack of proper voltage does not create an overheating scenario. If there is not enough power it will just malfunction and turn off. The only scenario where you can create physical damage this way is from going over the voltage or the PSU/CPU/motherboard/and other components losing their capability to regulate the voltage.
If a CPU is undervolted it will hang it will not damage the processor or any other components. Constantly restarting the system over and over again in a boot loop could damage components, but this would have to go on for days. If anything the PSU can overheat from undervolting the other components in extreme circumstances.
My suggestion is that the CPU is overheating not being under too low of a voltage.
>>>Well, Rich having been a PSU designer decades ago (as I just posted back to Mike's response), I'm not certain that's true the way you worded it. I think it's more of a Guideline. But, PC and laptop engineers can and do add up all the component wattages and then add the old "fudge-factor" or overcompensation rule of thumb all engineers are taught in school to use. If what you are saying was strictly true, I could buy a Seasonic or Corsair 150W PSU, and because it's a good brand it would power this OP's custom-built PC just fine?? I don't believe that's true. One has to look at the standard rules for computing a PSU's total power output to the Mobo and internal as well as externally connected devices it must power. I know what your are meaning to say, and that's "given an adequate computed total power output measured in wattage for a specific list of components, that a calculated wattage value of say 450W is determined, quality will vary widely by the PSU brand chosen by the system builder. This in turn can cause multiple failures including premature component failure due to temperature, heat, or altitude stresses, as well as undervoltage and overvoltage issues in the Motheboard and other connected components. Therefore it's more important to choose a PSU brand that has excellent reputation for using quality components and design, at an equivalent wattage (i.e. 450W in this example), than a low-quality brand". I'm posting this for others reading this thread including the Tech at the repair shop where the OP is planning on taking his PC.Great let us know what they find...actually the wattage on Psu means little as this is one of the components where the brand means more than anything else IMHO.
That is very true. One needs a good combination of quality power, and also some overhead (about 15-20%) in wattage when a gaming system is involved. That way you kill two birds with one stone -- the high quality (and steady with as few variances as possible) +12v rail, and also some decent overhead if and when one decides to upgrade to more drives, or more drives and or a stronger GPU. Typically when I build a gaming system I take into account what the user needs @ 90% (I give about 10% leeway to 100%), and I add about 20% to that. So a 90%@450-500W draw system would need at least a 650W high quality power supply in my shop for a gamer system. This takes also takes into account a possible heavier power draw GPU or heavier TDP processor upgrade. Example an FX 6300 to an FX 8350, and or an upgrade from a GTX 760 to an R9 290.BBJ you are reading what I said literally and I didn't mean it that way exactly so you are correct. I just didn't say it right. I didn't mean that you could buy a Seasonic 200 watt psu and power a superfast gaming pc. I simply meant the brand is more important than high wattage on a generic or no name psu. What I should have said was find the right wattage in a good quality branded psu.
>>>Yes BIGBEAR I have been building since about 1999 or so. When you hear about nagging issues with unexplainable FPS drops in gaming, lockups and or reboots, and various other issues, more often than not a new high quality power supply will get rid of most if not all the little nagging issues provided the rest of the hardware/driver configuration/BIOS setup is good. Kudos on picking a 750W Seasonic you can't really do any better than that for quality