Windows 7 Multiple Monitors

[seekermeister]

Ever since I upgraded my video card (EVGA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost), I haven't been able to get both of my monitors on the desktop to work the way that I want. Nothing is wrong with either monitor, but my secondary monitor is an old Dell VGA LCD, which I've only gotten to work on this card when connected to the upper DVI-I connector, but when connected in that fashion, the BIOS only displays on it, rather than my main monitor.

Since the Dell is VGA, it requires an adapter to connect to the graphics card, but the one that works in the DVI-I doesn't work in the lower DVI-D connector, because the latter doesn't permit insertion of the 4 pins around the single blade. I got one like this:

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Which plugs in fine, and to a degree works, because the monitor seems to think it is connected, but the computer doesn't, all I get on it is a black screen. The Device Manager, Nvidia Control panel nor Ultramon see it either.

So I tried finding a DVI-I 24-1 adapter, but what I've found, the picture shows as having the 4 pins around the single blade, that I'm trying to get rid of:

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Can someone help clear up my confusion?

 

[Josephur]

Go to eBay since you only need a few, look for Rubycon 1000uf 16v.

 

[seekermeister]

Thanks, I found a lot of 10 for sale very cheaply, so I'll have plenty of spares.

 

[seekermeister]

Another question popped into my head...does this capacitor have polarity? If so, how do you determine which lead is which?

EDIT: I figured out my polarity question, but still another has arisen...the old capacitor's specs are not printed, they are pressed into the cover in extremely small characters, so I missed a line of data, even though I used my magnifying lamp to examine it the first time. This line is 034B, which if I understand, the B indicates a tolerance of .10 percent, but the ad for the capacitors that I ordered said nothing about a tolerance:

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Obviously, a proper match is desirable, but how critical is it?

 

[seekermeister]

I got a reply from the seller of the caps regarding their tolerance:

I suspect +/- 20% at room temperature, but I don't know for sure. They are YK - you can do a search similar to this:
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But this is +85C variant, I suppose the 105C variant would be similar. Keep in mind any electrolytic is for bulk capacitance and should never be used for timing or low impedance (high frequency) filtering. see Link Removed

I pulled three from the batch at room temperature and they read 1060, 1090 and 1185 uF.

But as far as I can see, the old capacitor doesn't have the letters YK on it, and the explanations on the link above, doesn't speak of it as having anything to do with tolerance as the seller suggested...in fact it doesn't say anything about them, even though they appear in some of the pictures. The readings that he obtained from the samples does seem to support that their tolerance is ~20%, but how can I verify that tolerance is acceptable?

 

[Josephur]

I wouldn't worry about 20% so much, if above that then yes. Caps usually have a 10% to 20% tolerance.

 

[seekermeister]

Good, then I won't need to order some others. The next challenge for me is to solder them to the board. I always feel as though I need three hands.

 

[Josephur]

it shouldn't be too hard, you will want to remove the board completely and have something hold it while you desolder then solder then new one(s) in place.

 

[seekermeister]

The only thing I have to hold it is a Panavice, but I don't have a circuit board attachment for it. I do have the rubber jaws, which might work, if I can find an area I can clamp to without damaging the board.

 

[seekermeister]

I believe that I succeeded in soldering the capacitor, but that leaves one problem that I'm struggling with. The little wire that I broke off from the connector on the LCD itself. The connector is a small 3 pin connector, that only the two outer pins are used, one with a red wire and the other with white. It is the white wire that is broken. I pulled the broken piece out of the connector, and as far as I can tell, no solder was used. I think it is one in which the wire is supposed to only be pushed in and caught by an internal locking device. The problem is that I can't seem to even start the wire into the hole, even though I stripped a small length of the insulation. I even tried by using needle nose pliers, so that I could grip the wire up close, but it still bends before going in. Is there a trick to making this work?

 

[Josephur]

Does the connectors solder pins come out the back side of the PCB?

 

[seekermeister]

No. The connector is on the wire itself, kind of like a fan connector, only thinner and wider.

 

[Josephur]

Can you provide a picture?

 

[seekermeister]

Like I said before, I would but every time I try, all I get is a blurry overexposed shot, which I don't think would help. I wish this were some kind of standard connector that I'm familiar with, so I could just buy another, but it isn't, and I don't know what to call it to do a Google.

 

[Josephur]

Most connectors do adhere to some kind of standard however without seeing it....

 

[seekermeister]

I have yet to find a picture of the portion of the connector that fits on the cable, but the picture below shows where they fit...the two white connectors on the left edge of the board:



I don't imagine that is enough to indicate what is needed though.

 

[seekermeister]

I doubt that it will help any, but since...thanks to Badrobot, I now have a camera that works pretty well for the purpose, and I wanted to try it out, here is a shot of the connector with the broken wire:

I just need to know what to call it, so I might be able to Google a replacement...preferably one with the wires already soldered in place.