Windows 7 Lose Internet Connection

wilhelm1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2014
Okay, I am running Windows 7. I am using a Arris Surfboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem and I am using a Netgear N300 Wireless Router WNR2000v3. Lately I am losing my internet connection for short periods of time. When I go to look at the Modem, all of the lights on the front appear to be working as they should. I am
also running a C.Crane WIFI internet radio.

I am getting a Internet Signal from Comcast. The signal provided by Comcast from the beginning, has been low and they provided me with an Amplifier that was installed in my basement.(which I am not very happy about that they are allowing me the pleasure of providing power for their signal).

So to my question how can I trouble shoot this problem? My suspicion is the Comcast Signal and I would hate to
buy a Modem/Router and find out that the Comcast Signal is dropping down and back up.
Pretty disgusted with the situation. Any help?
 
Your Surfboard Cable Modem is WAAAAY out of date. :down: Your Cable Modem should be running DOCSIS 5.0, or at the very least, DOCSIS 4.0. 4.0 was upgraded on the Cox network nationwide 7 years ago, and is now on 5.0 or better nationwide. Do NOT buy a Cable Modem on the Internet or online, but rather purchase or lease one from your local ISP provider, in your case Comcast. Do not do this!

Comcast, as Spectrum-Charter (formerly Time-Warner) and Bell-Atlantic South and many other ISPs have done is to contract with the Cable Modem manufacturers to put in special firmware into those devices that do proprietary things such as security precautions on their private networks. If you buy one as a commodity item, you are going to be doomed to failure and all kinds of weird networking issues;:headache: especially if you do online gaming or web conferencing, or VPN networking with a business or University portal. Comcast, your ISP and most other ISPs meticulously do blocking of port forwarding, NAT, and multicasting features which many ISPs do block as potential threat or hacking type traffic. Unless you have THEIR firmware-updated devices, your purchase of the generic versions of those Cable Modems will cause you months or years of agonizing and pointless troubleshooting.

FYI.
<<<BIGBEARJEDI>>>
 
Thanks BigBear. I purchased the Surfboard Modem about a year ago at Best Buy if they are so out of date, I am surprised they
are still selling that old of stock. Will drop by Comcast.
 
Your Surfboard Cable Modem is WAAAAY out of date. :down: Your Cable Modem should be running DOCSIS 5.0, or at the very least, DOCSIS 4.0. 4.0 was upgraded on the Cox network nationwide 7 years ago, and is now on 5.0 or better nationwide.
This is so NOT true! Where are you getting this information?

The latest DOCSIS standard is 3.1. As seen here, there is no such thing as DOCSIS 5.0 or even 4.0.

And as seen here, the 6141 is a certified compatible MODEM with the Cox network. Note I have Cox and I use the 6141 and as you can see, I have no problems with bandwidth (I pay for 50 and 6). And it was several years ago that Cox mandated everyone got to DOCSIS 3.0 from 2.0.



And the 6141 is is fully compatible with Comcast too.

The fact the technician put a line amplifier going to your modem clearly indicates you are getting a week signal delivered to your home. That indicates a Comcast problem, not a modem problem.

@wilhelm1 - assuming your modem is not faulty there is nothing wrong the 6141. It is still widely recommended and used.

How do you connect your computers to your network? All by wireless? Try Ethernet and see what happens.

Note many things can cause a wireless network to drop out. Distance is key factor. So are barriers like walls, floors and ceilings - especially when there are many metal pipes and wires in those barriers. Interference from other nearby devices can cause wireless drops out too.
 
Hi Digerati,
Actually, directly from a Cox technician who came out to my apartment to troubleshoot my Internet connection due to dropouts. However, I must have mis-remembered the version numbers; sorry about that! :redface: I just looked it up on Wikipedia, and the latest DOCSIS is version 3.1. That's weird, because I clearly remember a newer version being used and the Cox Tech making me change to a newer Cable Modem with the latest DOCSIS version on it. Boy, that's strange. Anyway, here's the Wikipedia link: DOCSIS - Wikipedia

It's interesting that according to Wikipedia, the DOCSIS 2.0 to 3.0 changeover was in 2006; 11 years ago. The DOCSIS 3.1 has 2 revisions, one in 2013, and another one in 2016. I just checked my Cable Modem, an ARRIS TM1602, supplied by my ISP, Charter (now Spectrum), and they put that in 1 yr. ago Feb. 2016. It is indeed a DOCSIS 3.0.

@wilhelm1:
Messed up the version numbers here, whoops! sorry. Digerati is correct as per above. His suggestions are certainly worth trying. I would mention that the Netgear N300 router you have is underpowered for delivering a Wi-Fi signal between floors especially to a basement or attic where you may be attempting to transmit a radio signal through a firewall with metallic-based materials in addition to structural supports, plumbing pipes, electrical conduits, HVAC equipment near you (often found in basements). This is probably why your signal is so weak; that's why they gave you an amplifier (we call this a Range Extender in the business world). I would purchase a 100 ft. Cat.6 Ethernet cable and see if it will reach down to the basement from wherever your Arris Cable Modem is in your home. They run about $70 at Radio Shack. You should be getting close to your full rated speed from your ISP as Digerati mentioned. If you cannot reach the basement computer location with a 100 ft. Ethernet cable, take the computer upstairs to the room where your Cable Modem is and plug it in directly to your Netgear router and run speedtest.net as mentioned. You should be getting near full speed with a hardwired Ethernet connection there. If you are getting say 15 Mpbs there, and you are paying for 50/60 Mpbs or more, the problem could still be your Cable Modem, it could be defective.:waah:

I would suggest that you call Comcast and ask their Tech to run an end-to-end test on your Cable Modem. They will ask you to temporarily disconnect your Netgear wireless router to do this. If they find a problem with your existing Cable Modem, they will switch out for a new one. Usually the Tech will come out in a Service vehicle and should have the correct Model for your service location and install for you. I you live in a remote location, they will often mail it out if you tell them you are confident you can replace it yourself.
Repeat the speedtest with your computer or laptop plugged directly into the Cable Modem. You should now be getting full Internet speed as advertised by your ISP = Comcast.:up: If not, then Comcast has a problem with the delivery of a good Internet signal to your home, and they need to fix that. :hide: That's a them problem at that point as pointed out above.

Once you get that problem resolved, you can look at getting a higher-end wireless router that is made for multi-floor homes with a much stronger signal. Expect to pay in the $200-$300 range for this item. An example would be the Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 router available here: Amazon.com: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 (24x8) DOCSIS 3.0 WiFi Cable Modem Router (C7000) Certified for Xfinity from Comcast, Spectrum, Cox, Cablevision & more: Computers & Accessories
This router produces a very strong Radio Signal, 4X STRONGER than the N300 router you currently have! It uses the 802.11AC spec not the 802.11n you have which is several years old now. And I use the Nighthawk router in one of my Customer's homes who has a 6100 sq. ft. 3-story house and covers his entire property. Even with this router, we still had to use a couple of Range Extenders to get to certain corners of his house where the wireless signal was below 40% (2 of 5 bars signal strength). :eek:

These steps should be able to resolve your problem. Don't rely entirely on your ISP to fix this kind of Wi-Fi networking problem along. You also have to look at your equipment and the type of building or house you live in, age, etc.

Best,:D
<<<BBJ>>>
 
Actually, directly from a Cox technician who came out to my apartment to troubleshoot my Internet connection due to dropouts. However, I must have mis-remembered the version numbers; sorry about that! :redface: I just looked it up on Wikipedia, and the latest DOCSIS is version 3.1. That's weird, because I clearly remember a newer version being used and the Cox Tech making me change to a newer Cable Modem with the latest DOCSIS version on it.
As noted in my Wikipedia link above, the full duplex DOCSIS 3.1 is still V3.1. It is just a different implementation - that is "full duplex" which simply means it can upload and download simultaneously with DOCSIS 3.1 speeds.

If the Cox tech made you upgrade your modem, check the brand and model number. It should tell you what DOCSIS version it is up to.

@wilhelm1 - I can only assume BIGBEARJEDI got the information about your Netgear N300 from the same Cox tech who told him DOCSIS 5.0 was out. :rolleyes: The WNR2000v3 is an excellent wireless router with really decent range as it uses 11n and two internal antennas for better reception. Though it is getting along in years now, I note you indicated your problem just recently started.

You also indicated your ISP tech gave you a signal amplifier to boost the signal "FROM" comcast. That has NOTHING to do with wireless so again, I don't know where BIGBEARJEDI is getting his information. :(

If your wireless is dropping, then you are losing connection to your network and not to the Internet. That's a HUGE difference. So again, you need to try Ethernet to see if you experience the problem there too. If you do, then you have proven the problem is not with the wireless side of your network.

If Ethernet works fine, then you might taking your wireless device into your basement to see if connection holds then, As mentioned before there are many things that can interfere with good wireless connection, unless you recently redid all your duct work or wiring, it is not likely your router's design or capabilities (since it apparently did work fine) unless it has developed a fault.
 
Did a speed test Comcast that is with my laptop about 15 feet from the R/M only wood between it and the laptop. What do you think
The second set of number are for the Desktop. Comcast has a new Beta Speed Test and using Chrome is much better than Explorer test.

Ping: 49 Down: 45.7 Up: 12.2 Laptop

Desktop Ping: 14 Down: 90 UP: 12
 
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Your ping is not too hot at 49. Did you repeat? Is connection 2.4 or 5.0 Ghz? How wide is channel... 20 or 40?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Regarding wireless dropping, what is dhcp release time set for on router?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
The ping values don't serve much purpose in terms of your connectivity issues. It is your download and then upload Mbps ratings that matter and if you were losing connection, those would be bad. Yours are great - especially that 90 which is near fiber speeds.
 
Update, everything is gone to hell. My Laptop is running so damn slow that I went to my desktop that is running Win 7. It is very very old and I wanted to try
to finish my TurboTax forms and it said I needed to upgrade my browser to Exp 11. I did it and started to download from Microsoft Exp 11. Well the download
came down at approx. 50 KBs and it said it would take 12 minutes to do. I am on my laptop while I wait. Also my WiFi Radio is losing the station on and off.
I wonder if Comcast has Gremlin lurking so that I will up grade them? I wish I could get a new laptop and it would be with AMD and have a Solid State HD.
Just in a matter of minutes my Radio has gone of and one three times. Have not looked at the DT to see what is going on there. Man, I hate Computers or
better yet I hate not knowing "Jack" about them. Too Damn old to learn now, all I can do is use trial and error. Thanks for listening to me rant.
 
Again, I urge you to find an Ethernet cable and connect your notebook to the router via Ethernet. If still having problems, it is not your wireless.

And if still having problems with the Ethernet connection, I would bypass the router completely. Shutdown the notebook and connect it via Ethernet directly to the modem. Then boot up. If still having speed problem, then it is definitely your modem, or Comcast.
 
Again, I urge you to find an Ethernet cable and connect your notebook to the router via Ethernet. If still having problems, it is not your wireless.

And if still having problems with the Ethernet connection, I would bypass the router completely. Shutdown the notebook and connect it via Ethernet directly to the modem. Then boot up. If still having speed problem, then it is definitely your modem, or Comcast.
 
Okay, I found Ethernet cable and hooked up to the Router to LT /////// P 20 Down 49 Up 12.1.
Ethernet cable and hooked up to the Modem.to LT///////////////// P 18 Down 34 Up 12.1

Since I did the test, the only thing I can say at this point is the weather is much warmer quite a bit
above freezing. Will monitor for drop outs today.

Update:
It is about 18 minutes since I posted. Just had a drop out and the 2 Blue Lights on the Modem
went to green and my Radio stopped working and after my checking things out it started to work
again. I think it is time for me to call Comcast.
 
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I think it is time for me to call Comcast.
I agree. And be sure to tell them you connected directly to the modem (not using a router). This will [hopefully] convince them it is not your network. And by "your network" that is everything on your side of the gateway device (the modem).
 
When you lose connection, verify on whether or not you're still connected to the wireless router by pinging the router, if you are still connected, open a web browser and enter the modem IP address (not the router) I believe on the surf boards it's going to be 192.168.100.1(if this is not the correct ip you can goggle your modem or connect directly to it and get the modem address from ipconfig) you should able able to tell if the modem is connected or is having signal issues from comcast. There also should be some basic logging on the modem web UI.

Side note, do you have your coax cable from modem going through any kind of surge protector that includes coax anti surge protection? These can also cause a lot of problems with the signal and shouldn't be needed since the coax cables should be grounded outside of the house at the junction box.
 
Comcast tried to determine if a problem was on their end, they said they could not detect a problem on their end. Have a tech coming tomorrow morning. As to the surge protector, I have one on the AC power connectors, nothing on any coax cables that I know of. Just like a "toothache" since I called Comcast everything is working like a charm. Not going to hold my breathe.
 
Good idea to see if you can access the modem (and yes, that is the correct IP address for the Surf Board 6141). Sadly, it does not really tell you a whole of useful information. Mine shows the Signal to Noise ratio (mine is 35 db) and Power level (mine is -7 dBmV) but I have no reference to go on if that is good. I can only assume since I have good speeds. I get a lot more information by checking the router status.

BTW, ipconfig will not give you the modem address if you go through a router, even if you use the ipconfig /allcompartments /all switches. You can get the modem's address (the IP assigned to you by your ISP) through your router, however.

If you have any splitters on your line that are exposed to the elements, they can go bad too. If you have any on the inside of your house, I would make sure their connections are tight.
 
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