Windows 7 Unidentified Network (No Internet)

nousername

New Member
So yesterday in the early AM's I was browsing my internet and all the sudden, bam.
I lost my internet.

No reason at all, it just happened. This is only my computer, everything else works fine (If internet is out, our TV's don't work)

When I go to my little internet icon in the taskbar, it says Unidentified Network and I have no internet access what so ever.

When I run CMD and use ipconfig /release I get this:
"An error occurred while releasing interface Loopback Pseudo-Interface 1 : The system cannot find the file specified."

I also got this error before:
"An error occurred while releasing interface Local Area Connection : An address has not yet been associated with the network endpoint."

Tech support kept telling me to use ipconfig /flushdns but whenever I entered it into CMD it gave me an error saying something along the lines of "command unrecognized"

I cannot give you guys the full text of what CMD says since it's on a different computer.

This has been going on for two days straight and it's just one giant headache, so please help me guys.

NOTE: People keep assuming I'm using wireless, I am using a direct ethernet cord, not wireless.

/EDIT: I'll tell you what I've tried.
* ipconfig /release and /renew and /flushdns
* Turn off firewall
* Update and Reinstall Driver
* Restarting my modem/router
* Restarting my computer
* Unplugging my ethernet cord and replugging it (also leaving it unplugged over-night)
* Manually assigning the 12 code I'm assuming IP
 
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nousername:
Hello and welcome to the forum.
Try this open and elevated command prompt (Start Orb>-All Programs->Accessories->Command Prompt) (right click it and choose run as administrator)
Then type this

netsh int ip reset resetlog.txt (hit enter)

and then

netsh Winsock reset (hit enter)
Reboot your computer
Hope this helps. Keep us posted (the results of an ipconfig /all might be handy as well, just so we can take a look at what you're getting)
Regards
Randy
 
Sadlky, that didn't work.
I found a USB drive so here's my ipconfig /all.
dr9kpl.jpg
 
OK, thanks for the image. It's obvious that for some reason your wired adapter is not obtaining an IP addressing scheme from whatever is serving up DHCP information on your network (probably your router) and is instead using an APIPA addressing scheme generated by the OS.
So probably the quickest way to move the diagnostic process along would be to manually assign static values appropriate for your network. If you would like some help with that we can provide it.
If you have another working computer on the same network, please provide the same ipconfig /all information from that computer so we can see what set of numbers are appropriate or if you have some experience doing this then you will just need to remember that you need and IP address that is absolutely unique on the network and not used by any other network node. The rest of the numbers should be identical to what the other computer has.
IP Address for v4 (TCP/IP v.4) has to be unique on the network
Subnet Mask should be identical (the same... usually 255.255.255.0 class C subnet)
Default Gateway should be identical (usually the inside address of your router)
DNS Server(s) Address should be the same (often the inside address of your router but can be either public DNS server addresses, or addresses for your ISP's DNS servers)
Regards
Randy
 
I'm not sure if we're on the same network. But here's his anyway:
2gv6j5e.jpg



I'm not experienced in this subject at all, so I'll need your help when I manually assign the static values
 
OK. Click the start orb and type
ncpa.cpl
into the search box and hit enter
Select your wired network adapter and then right click it and choose properties.
Uncheck the box next to Internet Protocol Version 6 (unless you are using homegroups, in which case leave it alone)
Highlight (select) Internet Protocol Version 4 and click the properties button
Select the radio button that says "Use the following IP address:
insert the following
IP address: 192.168.1.222
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 (should auto populate)
Default Gateway: 192.168.1.254
Select the radio button that says "Use the following DNS server addresses:
insert the following
Preferred DNS server: 192.168.1.254
Alternate DNS server: 8.8.8.8
OK your way back out of there give it a couple minutes and see if your internet connections comes up again.
Open a command prompt and type
ping 192.168.1.254
you should receive 4 replys
and a summary of something like sent 4 received 4 lost 0
Keep us posted.
Regards
Randy

EDIT: Forgot, by on the same network, I would mean using the same router as the default gateway to get to the internet. Basically connected to the same device, could be wired or wireless.
 
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OK, if you are certain that both the problem PC and the one that you used as an example above are both on the same network (same room, same house, same router) then there could be a physical issue with the connection itself which could explain the failed ping attempts, check the cable, physically inspect it for damage or improperly crimped ends, test on another computer if available. Switch ports on the router. Inspect lights at both ends (computer NIC and Router) for connectivity (steady light could be amber or green) and for activity blinking light again both ends. If you have another computer available to test the same connection that would be ideal and possibly narrow down the problem to an issue with your Network Interface Card.
Reboot the computer into SafeMode with Networking by restarting and tapping the F8 key as the computer is coming back up, see if your network connections works in this alternate boot mode. The fact that it failed all of a sudden with no updates or upgrades to any installed software supports a physical problem more so then anything else. If you told me you had been doing Windows Updates or other software updates then I might suspect a bad driver or a configuration reset. Failing or actually succeeding all the above

Then at that point I'm going to go ahead and blame some type of third party software, almost certainly a Firewall product like Comodo or ZoneAlarm that is misconfigured, or an AntiVirus / Internet Security Suite like Avast, Avira, AVG, Norton/Symantec, McAfee, etc., ect., although I'm not positive that that would explain the dropped ping packets unless the product is grossly mis-configured to block outbound ECHO/ICMP or the router's inside edge is configured to drop them.
So first completely remove any such software from your computer by using the Programs and Features applet in the control panel. Then follow that up by the vendor specific proprietary removal tool a list of which can be found here if yours is not in the list try Google or else let us know the Manufacturer and we'll see if we can help find one.
Consider replacing any such product with Link Removed due to 404 Error.
Keep us posted.
Regards
Randy
 
I'm not exactly sure if we're on the same network.
He uses Network 3 and my PC (the problem) has 2 if I remember correctly.

How do I find out the static ID's for my network?

As for my AVG, I'm using the trial version of the internet security.
It doesn't have a firewall so I don't know if that's the issue, I've been using it for a week already.

I already tried disabling windows firewall.

Also, I was retrying the ping earlier and I get 1 received but it says "host is unresponsive" or something along those lines, and the other 3 are lost.

As for the cord having damage, I don't think that's possible because I tried two cords on my brothers computer and they work fine with no issues.

I normally don't do windows updates unless it's absolutely important.


Would I possibly need a new router/modem? My ethernet cord is connected to this.
Netgear_ProSafe_8_Port_Gigabit_Switch_GS108_front.jpeg
 
Thanks for the info, image and link.
He uses Network 3 and my PC (the problem) has 2 if I remember correctly.
Are you talking about ports number 2 and number 3 on the Switch in the image?
And what exactly (Manufacturer's Name, Model Name, Model Number and Revision Number) does that NetGear switch plug into (up-linked).
Without knowing the information regarding the additional network appliances being used to support your network communications it's difficult for me to make an accurate guess, but if you have the switch plugged directly into your ISP's provided device, then depending on what type of device it actually is, may be the issue.
Without getting into a lot of complicated networking jargon some ISP provided device only support a single IP address that can be used internally on your network to get out to the internet. Depending on the device, the provider and the provisioning you may have to add an actual router between your ISP provided device and the other devices (switch and or computers) on your internal network. Even some of the devices supplied by DSL providers like Verizon and ATT/SBC that handled NAT (network address translation) for private reserved addressing on the internal network, would still only support a single device on the internal network.
So in short, perhaps a call to your provider and a few minutes of explaining to them what you are attempting to do might help. They may suggest a different, more robust device that they can provide that would support multiple simultaneous connections.
I'm just guessing here but I suspect that you purchased the switch (nice switch by the way) to allow you to plug in more that one computer to the same network and what you should have purchased was a router with a four port integrated switch.
Like I said just a guess.
Regards
Randy
 
It's a netgear prosafe 8 port gigabit switch gs108, I'm not sure of my model number.

I believe when we had the internet set up they supplied the switch.
I've contacted AT&T about this issue and they helped none.

We've had it for a very long time, so I have a feeling it might be having issues now.
But the green light comes up when I plug in the Ethernet.
 
It's a netgear prosafe 8 port gigabit switch gs108, I'm not sure of my model number.

I believe when we had the internet set up they supplied the switch.
I've contacted AT&T about this issue and they helped none.

We've had it for a very long time, so I have a feeling it might be having issues now.
But the green light comes up when I plug in the Ethernet.
Yes I can tell from the image and the link that you provided what kind of Switch it is, what I am asking for is what is the device that the switch is plugged into. Manufacturer Name, Model Name, Model Number and Revision Number if applicable.
 
Yes I can tell from the image and the link that you provided what kind of Switch it is, what I am asking for is what is the device that the switch is plugged into. Manufacturer Name, Model Name, Model Number and Revision Number if applicable.

Well the only thing it's really plugged into is my computer which is an E Machine, Not sure what the model number is (I'll edit this when I get it) and Revision Number is unknown.

It's hooked up to our phone line as well.
 
Somethings up then because I'm pretty sure that that thing is just a simple Layer2 unmanaged switch and is not capable of connecting directly to your phone line to support your DSL connection as a matter of fact I don't think that without an adapter it will even connect physically, at least not very well you're saying that your cat 3, four pin connector phone wire is connected directly to that Netgear Switch?? I suspect you're missing a second network applicance that you're not physically seeing, perhaps in another room or basement and what you are thinking is a phone line, because it does look like one just a little bigger physically, is actually a Cat5 cable terminated at the wall with a keystone jack that just looks like a phone plug to you.
You are almost definitely going to have to have someone on site who either knows what is there and is being used or knows what to look for and can help you sort out this issue, but I don't suspect at this point that it is your computer.
How did you come to acquire that switch, when and why? Have you had it for a very long time has it actually ever worked in the manner you are trying to use it now? Or is it a recent replacement purchase?
 
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