Windows 10 Internet Connection drops frequently and is very slow

[Eric Sharley]

Hi, recently my internet on my desktop has gotten very slow (15mb to 2-3mb). This is connecting from the modem wireless, around 10 m away, not only this but sometimes the internet just turns off. Not the power to the modem but the internet just drops. Also whats more strange is that other computers through out the house are getting normal internet, we have an internet extender and when I connect to that the internet works fine so I'm very confused what the problem could be. I've tried calling up my internet provider (Iprimis) they say the connection is running fine and something about modem fluctuations? But I don't understand, help?

 

[Neemobeer]

Hi Eric, Networking issues can be difficult to track down. It appears you've done some deductive reasoning already. If all the other devices are working when yours is not, it's probably a safe bet to say the issue lies on your device.

• What is the make/model of the computer
• Are you only connecting wireless to your network and have you tried hard wiring in when your having the issue?
• When you are having the issue, try opening task manager > Performance tab, are you seeing high CPU, Memory or Disk usage?

 

[Eric Sharley]

Hi Neemobeer, it is a custom made computer so i can't really give you the model number for it. Would you like the wifi adaptor model number instead? The performance of the CPU, Memory and Disk usage doesn't change when it the internet stops. I can only connect using wireless as the modem is to far away.

 

[BIGBEARJEDI]

We would need the Make/Model of your Motherboard (i.e.: ASUS, AsusRock, MSI, Gigabyte, etc.), the Make/Model of your CPU chip, the Make/Model of your GPU card/chip, and the Make/Model/Wattage of your PSU (Power Supply).

We also would need to know if this custom computer came with W10 pre-installed from the factory on it, Yes, or No? If no, did you upgrade this computer from an earlier version of Windows, such as W7 or W8.1 or older? This could be something as simple as W10 substituting a new driver for the NIC adapter in your PC and it's not compatible with W10! If you did the W10 upgrade yourself, did you remember to run THE WINDOWS10 COMPATIBILITY TEST? If not, you may have missed an incompatibility with your NIC card and the W10. If you decide to really fix this problem, and reinstall your W10 from scratch after backing up all your Personal Data to external media first, you can re-run the Compatibility Test as it's part of the W10 upgrade/install program. Here's the instructions on how to run it: Get Windows 10 app - Check Compatibility Report for Windows 10
Of course, the Compatibility report may show incompatible hardware as well as software. You will have to either remove AND replace the offending piece of hardware (RAM stick, Hard Drive, Motherboard, GPU card, or Network Adapter) if it shows up on this report. If software shows up on this report, such as custom programming tools like CYGWIN or .NET, you'll have to remove that as well. 95% of W10 problems are caused by folks not running this report or if they do; ignoring the report and just clicking the buttons to finish the W10 upgrade or install! Bad idea. Of course, if your hardware is not compatible, the cost of replacing multiple components up to and including the Motherboard would be almost as expensive as replacing the entire PC. The fact that it has W7 on it tells us it's 6-7 years already, so if you did upgrade it, the hardware incompatibility issues would certainly be not surprise.

If you can't find the paperwork that came with that computer, such as an Invoice or Bill listing out the detail components one by one, you can simply download the free SPECCY diagnostic program that is available here: Get Windows 10 app - Check Compatibility Report for Windows 10
You can then upload the resulting output text file back here to this thread which will give us all the information we need to further analyze your problem in depth. The only exception here is the wattage of your PSU--that will usually require you to crack open the case, and in some cases completely disconnect the PSU from the peripherals and Motherboard in order to read it's manufacturer spec label. If you've never done this before, it would be best to pay a licensed Computer Tech do this for you.

Thanks!
<<<BIGBEARJEDI>>>