Windows 10 Loss of internet connection

[John9210]

Windows 10 64 bit; NetGear N300 WiFi Router, Firefox 54.0.1
On my desktop computer, the network keeps disconnecting from the internet during periods when my browser is closed. I've had no troubles until a few weeks ago when the problem suddenly appeared. While connected to the internet, the network does not disconnect.
After a period when the browser is closed, the network icon in the System tray shows the network as secured, not connected. I have to click the connect button to connect. I've worked with both the computer manufacturer and router manufacturer but they could not solve the problem. I've even replaced the router. Since the computer and router are operating normally, I'm beginning to think it's a Windows 10 problem. Perhaps a hidden setting somewhere? Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot?

 

[Neemobeer]

Download the script here. Network Diagnostic Information
Run the script the next it shows secured not connected. Once you get back on here upload the log on your desktop.

 

[BIGBEARJEDI]

Hi and welcome to the forum

It would be helpful to know the exact Make/Model of your computer. We can better assist you with troubleshooting, but we are lacking details your hardware. Did your Desktop computer come pre-loaded with W10 on it from the factory? Or did you upgrade it from an earlier version of windows such as W7 or W8x? How are you connecting your W10 PC to your router? With a cable (Ethernet) which is a hardwired connection or via a wireless or Wi-Fi connection? You can see we have to guess what your environment is here. The more information you can provide to us the more we can help you.

If you can get Neemo's diagnostic report, that will help too. The main 3 reasons that Internet connection randomly drops such as your does are:
1.) Virus/malware infection.
2.) PC hardware failure, usually a Hard Drive or a RAM stick(s) failure.
3.) Windows registry corruption, due to a variety of things such as installing free software or software that is poorly coded. Removal of these programs often causes windows to stop working correctly, and it has to be repaired (assuming your Hardware tests Ok).

To start with, for cause #1, you should use whatever AV program you have and scan/remove all found viruses. Next, download the free MALWARETBYTES antispyware from here: malwarebytes.org and scan/remove all spyware viruses. Power-cycle your computer and reboot. If your problem abates and your Internet connection stays on, removing the virus(es) cured the problem and you are set to go! Bear in mind that there exist thousands of viruses today whose main mission is to interrupt or prevent you from getting any Internet connection or a stable connection.

Next, you need to test your hardware for Cause #2. If you've never done this before yourself, I suggest you take it to your local licensed Computer Pro and pay him to do this for you. Once this is done you can proceed with more aggressive software repairs from DOS utilities in W10 up to and including W10 reset and factory Reinstallation. If you can't afford to do so, or just wish to learn how to test your own hardware, take a look at my free TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE you can get from here: Windows 10 - Unclickable Task Bar
My Guide will also show you how to perform advanced software repairs; all of which require hardware testing to be done first (the first half of the Guide).

For Cause #3, you pretty much need to test your Hardware and then perform software repairs, just like the above paragraph describes for Cause #2. The Causes can be from quite differing things, but the solution is generally the same.

Your problem is one of the most encountered of ALL computers problems, regardless of which windows version you are running; for the last 20 years or so. Sometimes, if you have a failed component, you have to replace it at your cost. If your W10 computer is new, and it's less than 1 yr. old you should consider returning it to your place of purchase of take/ship to the manufacturer's local repair depot. Repairs such as this can run from $60-$500 US or more. It's best to get it done for free if you can. If your computer is older than 1 yr. old, you are going to have pay to get it fixed, whether or not you pay a Tech to do it for you if you have any failed parts. Period.

Let us know your computer make/model and we can get started getting your problem fixed and back on the road again!
Best of luck to you,
<<BIGBEARJEDI>>

 

[jdesignz]

Reinstalling/updating Ethernet drivers should fix it. I've been battling that since early Windows 10. Goodluck!

Sent from my SM-J510GN using Tapatalk

 

[BIGBEARJEDI]

Unless he has a failed Hard Drive, RAM stick, or a virus/malware infection or windows registry corruption which driver reinstalls often cannot fix!

BBJ

 

[nmsuk]

Unless he has a failed Hard Drive, RAM stick, or a virus/malware infection or windows registry corruption which driver reinstalls often cannot fix!

BBJ

Which he doesn't!

 

[John9210]

Attached is the Network Diagnostic Information file. I've uploaded two files: One when the network is not connected (it shows secured and not connected), and one when it is connected.

 

[John9210]

Hi and welcome to the forum

It would be helpful to know the exact Make/Model of your computer. We can better assist you with troubleshooting, but we are lacking details your hardware. Did your Desktop computer come pre-loaded with W10 on it from the factory? Or did you upgrade it from an earlier version of windows such as W7 or W8x? How are you connecting your W10 PC to your router? With a cable (Ethernet) which is a hardwired connection or via a wireless or Wi-Fi connection? You can see we have to guess what your environment is here. The more information you can provide to us the more we can help you.

If you can get Neemo's diagnostic report, that will help too. The main 3 reasons that Internet connection randomly drops such as your does are:
1.) Virus/malware infection.
2.) PC hardware failure, usually a Hard Drive or a RAM stick(s) failure.
3.) Windows registry corruption, due to a variety of things such as installing free software or software that is poorly coded. Removal of these programs often causes windows to stop working correctly, and it has to be repaired (assuming your Hardware tests Ok).

To start with, for cause #1, you should use whatever AV program you have and scan/remove all found viruses. Next, download the free MALWARETBYTES antispyware from here: malwarebytes.org and scan/remove all spyware viruses. Power-cycle your computer and reboot. If your problem abates and your Internet connection stays on, removing the virus(es) cured the problem and you are set to go! Bear in mind that there exist thousands of viruses today whose main mission is to interrupt or prevent you from getting any Internet connection or a stable connection.

Next, you need to test your hardware for Cause #2. If you've never done this before yourself, I suggest you take it to your local licensed Computer Pro and pay him to do this for you. Once this is done you can proceed with more aggressive software repairs from DOS utilities in W10 up to and including W10 reset and factory Reinstallation. If you can't afford to do so, or just wish to learn how to test your own hardware, take a look at my free TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE you can get from here: Windows 10 - Unclickable Task Bar
My Guide will also show you how to perform advanced software repairs; all of which require hardware testing to be done first (the first half of the Guide).

For Cause #3, you pretty much need to test your Hardware and then perform software repairs, just like the above paragraph describes for Cause #2. The Causes can be from quite differing things, but the solution is generally the same.

Your problem is one of the most encountered of ALL computers problems, regardless of which windows version you are running; for the last 20 years or so. Sometimes, if you have a failed component, you have to replace it at your cost. If your W10 computer is new, and it's less than 1 yr. old you should consider returning it to your place of purchase of take/ship to the manufacturer's local repair depot. Repairs such as this can run from $60-$500 US or more. It's best to get it done for free if you can. If your computer is older than 1 yr. old, you are going to have pay to get it fixed, whether or not you pay a Tech to do it for you if you have any failed parts. Period.

Let us know your computer make/model and we can get started getting your problem fixed and back on the road again!
Best of luck to you,
<<BIGBEARJEDI>>

 

[John9210]

Background info

Hardware and Software environment

OS: Windows 10 ,64 bit

Computer: Lenovo, Think Center M700; 256 GB SSD;

External HD: 1 TB Samsung SSD (for backups)

Router: NetGear M300 Wi-Fi Router

Browser: FireFox 54.0.1

Virus Program: Windows Defender

Comments
1. I have had the computer manufacturer test the hardware. After extensive testing they could not resolve the problem so they installed a new mother board and wireless adapter card!!.

2. The computer manufacturer tested the software on the computer and finally gave up when they could not resolve the issue. They said it was a router issue.

3. NetGear tested the router. After extensive testing, they concluded the problem was the router and supplied me with a replacement! However, the problem persists with the replacement.

That’s why that after all this effort I have concluded it is not a hardware or software issue, and is probably a Windows 10 Issue.

Now with regard to Windows 10. The computer came with Windows 7 installed and I had to upgrade to Windows 10, which was supplied by Lenovo. I’ve had some persistent and annoying issues with Microsoft Word 2016 and FileMaker 15 Advanced which I could not resolve, even with extensive Forum support. I’ve considered reloading Windows 10 but hesitate to do so because of the enormous amount of work required and re-install and setup my programs.

For Virus protection I depend on Windows Defender. I’ve always felt it did a good job, but of course I really can’t tell.

I’ve used Malware bytes but it keeps identifying some of my programs as pups and setting up the Exceptions for the programs has never worked! So, I’ve stopped using Malware bytes. I now use Spybot.

 

[Neemobeer]

Well one big no no that stands out is your network which I'm assuming is this one NETGEAR87 is on channel 4. You have multiple neighboring SSIDs on channel 1, 4 and 6 all of which can interfere with your network and cause your network to not pick up the beacon packets from your router. Based on your wireless profile if it can't pick up those beacons (broadcasts) it will disconnect. My suggestion would be to log into your router and change to channel 6. There is only one other SSID on 6 and it has a low signal strength so it shouldn't interfere with yours.

Profile information
-------------------
Version : 1
Type : Wireless LAN
Name : NETGEAR87
Control options :
Connection mode : Connect automatically
Network broadcast : Connect only if this network is broadcasting
AutoSwitch : Do not switch to other networks
MAC Randomization : Disabled

Changing your channel

• Open a command prompt and type ipconfig (make note of your gateway address)
• Enter the gateway address into a web browser
• Log into your router (the credentials may be on your router on a sticker or default you can google for these)
• Should be under the wireless settings screen you wan to change the channel to 6 and apply the settting

 

[John9210]

Well one big no no that stands out is your network which I'm assuming is this one NETGEAR87 is on channel 4. You have multiple neighboring SSIDs on channel 1, 4 and 6 all of which can interfere with your network and cause your network to not pick up the beacon packets from your router. Based on your wireless profile if it can't pick up those beacons (broadcasts) it will disconnect. My suggestion would be to log into your router and change to channel 6. There is only one other SSID on 6 and it has a low signal strength so it shouldn't interfere with yours.

Profile information
-------------------
Version : 1
Type : Wireless LAN
Name : NETGEAR87
Control options :
Connection mode : Connect automatically
Network broadcast : Connect only if this network is broadcasting
AutoSwitch : Do not switch to other networks
MAC Randomization : Disabled

Changing your channel

• Open a command prompt and type ipconfig (make note of your gateway address)
• Enter the gateway address into a web browser
• Log into your router (the credentials may be on your router on a sticker or default you can google for these)
• Should be under the wireless settings screen you wan to change the channel to 6 and apply the settting

I changed the channel to 6, but the persists.

 

[John9210]

I changed the channel to 6, but the problem persists.

 

[Neemobeer]

For grins, have you tried re-installing your wireless driver and/or checked the manufacturer site for an updated driver?

 

[John9210]

Yes I did. Wireless driver was updated, but it didn't help.

 

[Neemobeer]

Another suggestion, download a Linux distro such as Ubuntu, create a bootable usb with a tool like rufus. Boot to the usb and select 'Try Ubuntu' use it for browsing the web and see if it exhibits the same behavior. If it does it could be a issue with the wireless card itself. The card should be accessible via a panel on the back. You could try re-seating the card and antenna

 

[jdesignz]

Manually reinstall ethernet and wireless driver will help. Don't use auto/windows search

Sent from my SM-J510GN using Tapatalk

 

[John9210]

Another suggestion, download a Linux distro such as Ubuntu, create a bootable usb with a tool like rufus. Boot to the usb and select 'Try Ubuntu' use it for browsing the web and see if it exhibits the same behavior. If it does it could be a issue with the wireless card itself. The card should be accessible via a panel on the back. You could try re-seating the card and antenna

 

[John9210]

It's not the wireless card. I've replaced it and the problem persists.

 

[BIGBEARJEDI]

Mmmm.. Interesting. Sorry we haven't been able to come up with a fix for you yet. After reading through your Network Diagnostic files that you posted per Neem's instructions, I am quite puzzled by some of the results. I noticed that there are 2 other User Profiles in addition to yours (appears to be NETGEAR87) as they appear here:
User profiles
-------------
All User Profile : Amazon-1KX
All User Profile : NETGEAR87
All User Profile : NETGEAR75

Neither of the other 2 profiles (Amazon-1KX and NETGEAR75) show up in either the CONNECTED or NOT CONNECTED diagnostic files. Interface Profile information can only be saved in 2 places; #1 in your wireless router (which you say you replaced), and #2 in your W10 Lenovo PC. Replacing the router should have gotten rid of those other 2 SSIDs representing other networks in your home or homes of your neighbors. Since you have a desktop PC and not a laptop, it's unlikely you are picking up those other 2 Wi-Fi networks at locations outside of your home such as a friend's home or a family member's home. Clearly you've logged into both those other Wi-Fi networks at some point with your PC. I must surmise then that you have 2 other routers in your home that you are also using that you didn't tell us about, or that they were used at some point and are now disconnected or no longer being used.

The new router should no longer see either of those Wi-Fi networks and should have no entries in the routing table. However, if W10 has problems with it's network system files, there could be corruption there and those entries are NOT being cleared out, and are transmitting to the router, which of course is looking to autoswitch to either of those 2 other networks which no longer exist (I suppose), and therefore the router is trying to switch to those other 2 networks which are no longer broadcasting, but may be temporarily interrupting your primary Wi-Fi connection to your active router, NETGEAR87 (which is listed in both the diagnostic files, with a 99% signal).

If my theory is right, since you've had the Mobo, wireless card, and router all replaced, the only thing left you haven't replaced yet is the hard drive (you didn't report testing results) and a complete W10 reinstallation from factory media. And you want to avoid the latter due to the amount of effort it will take to rebuild your current W10.
What you might consider trying, is one of these 2 things:
1.) Purchase a new hard drive which should be under $100 or so, and load a W10 install on their from your factory Media (DVD or USB) which Lenovo should allow you to do from a Recovery program included with the PC. Upon your 1st connection during setup or after setup to the NETGEAR87, your W10 should only create one User Profile for that connection. Test it. If the problem abates, then your problem lies somewhere with the W10 installation on the original hard drive. At this point, you'd have to completely reinstall all your programs and data from backups onto the W10 test install on the new hard drive; and your intermittent wireless problem is now solved!
2.) Test your existing Hard Drive using my GUIDE link I provided to you back in Post #3 above. If any errors are returned from the drive diagnostic program, your drive has failed or is partially failing; in either case it must be replaced! Chances are very good that if your hard drive has failed and you replace it and do a W10 install from factory media as in #1, and your intermittent wireless problem should be solved.

Either of these recommendations may help solve your problem, but in either case you'd be forced to reinstall your W10 with a scratch install and that's certainly a pain, but next to replacing the PC with a brand new one, it's certainly a less costly solution ($100 at most) than a new PC purchase. And, since you sound pretty computer savvy I still want to say it's vital that before you start any further troubleshooting such as hardware testing or W10 reinstalls, you should FIRST MAKE CERTAIN TO BACKUP ALL YOUR PERSONAL DATA TO EXTERNAL MEDIA IN ORDER TO AVOID IRRETRIEVABLE DATA LOSS!!

You have a very sticky problem, especially since you've gone to a lot of time and expense to replace 3 pieces of hardware; but still haven't solved the issue. I think if you try one of the above, you're likely to achieve a positive result.

Let us know how it goes.
Best,
<<BBJ>>

 

[Neemobeer]

I would also check your power settings. Open a command prompt and type powercfg /q
Look for this section Subgroup GUID: 19cbb8fa-5279-450e-9fac-8a3d5fedd0c1 (Wireless Adapter Settings)
Make sure it's set to 0